2006 LBZ 4wd Issue
- Thread starter Santos_LBZ
- Start date
Take special note of the bearings, especially if that fluid on the bottom of the case feels "pasty".
One easy way to get the chain out is remove the main-shaft support bearing snap-ring, the bearing, reluctor wheel, oil pump, then both sprocket snap-rings; from there you can slide the sprockets and chain out together. That'll give you a better visual of how everything is put together vs. just sliding the main-shaft out with everything assembled or trying to pinch them together to get the chain out.
Take note of the oil pump screen and whether or not the screen is clogged; the rear bearing machined surface of the back case-half (you make sure the bearing can't thrust excessively in the case-half with the snap-ring around it, as that can causes engagement issues); look for witness marks from the chain jumping; check all the snap-rings for excessive wear (you don't want any major grooving in them as that can cause play).
Keep posting pictures! Especially of the forks, the 4x4 engagement mechanism and the mode collar. If you see anything questionable post a picture or ask too! I'll check the thread several times today.
Also, PLEASE wear glasses! I've had that rear snap-ring shoot off hard enough to chip the drywall in my garage!
One easy way to get the chain out is remove the main-shaft support bearing snap-ring, the bearing, reluctor wheel, oil pump, then both sprocket snap-rings; from there you can slide the sprockets and chain out together. That'll give you a better visual of how everything is put together vs. just sliding the main-shaft out with everything assembled or trying to pinch them together to get the chain out.
Take note of the oil pump screen and whether or not the screen is clogged; the rear bearing machined surface of the back case-half (you make sure the bearing can't thrust excessively in the case-half with the snap-ring around it, as that can causes engagement issues); look for witness marks from the chain jumping; check all the snap-rings for excessive wear (you don't want any major grooving in them as that can cause play).
Keep posting pictures! Especially of the forks, the 4x4 engagement mechanism and the mode collar. If you see anything questionable post a picture or ask too! I'll check the thread several times today.
Also, PLEASE wear glasses! I've had that rear snap-ring shoot off hard enough to chip the drywall in my garage!
Yeah, I'm going to go on a whim and say every bearing in the case isn't in great shape. Likely had some oil starvation issues.
You're going to need a blind hole bearing puller to get the lever bearing out (don't try hammering it out or you will damage the machined surface and have leaks into the encoder motor) and the rear case-half bearing where the front output shaft rides.
You're going to need a blind hole bearing puller to get the lever bearing out (don't try hammering it out or you will damage the machined surface and have leaks into the encoder motor) and the rear case-half bearing where the front output shaft rides.
I think a few of the bearings are good but I most likely will just replace them all. The bearing in the output to the front differential is obviously toast and it looks like there is more problems in that area
Hmm, I can't tell from my phone but it looks like that fork is messing the delrin pads. Which is metal on metal contact if that's the case. That'd be the big issue if so.
Yeah the fork is toast it had some of the pad on one side the other was just metal to metal. What does that call for? Just replacement or more possible problems?
New range fork and range hub for sure. I need to see the planet and input shaft after you've cleaned those to tell - as the planets teeth look a bit damaged to, but I can't tell 100%.
Also, I've been erroneously calling those parts the "mode fork and mode collar". That is the bigger collar and fork that engage 4x4, what is the condition of those?
Also, I've been erroneously calling those parts the "mode fork and mode collar". That is the bigger collar and fork that engage 4x4, what is the condition of those?
Also, to let you know your price to fix is going to go up here. Especially, if you need a new planet and input shaft - planets are typically around $80-140 and input shafts $50-120 on ebay.
The range fork and hub together are roughly 78.00.
The range fork and hub together are roughly 78.00.
If I was in your shoes I'd be finding another transfer case.. You'll have $800 in parts probably to fix it.. One at salvage yard is 800 ish.. Put a pump rub plate in it and bolt it in your truck.. Minimal down time
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The mode fork looks acceptable to me(*optional replacement*, as it is a wear item), as long as there is no grooving in the plastic, the collar looks great. The only wear part in there is the synchro that I posted a picture of earlier you'll want to check out.
You'll also want to pick up a new pickup-tube for the oil pump, those aren't serviceable.
There's a passage through the main-shaft that supplies oil to the front assembly(planet, input pocket bearing, input shaft bearing, range fork and hub), you'll want to check that for blockage and push something like brake cleaner and then wd-40 though the shaft. You can blow it out with air when you're done, if you particular about fluids mixing.
The pocket bearing on the input shaft has a certain depth to be pushed in too. Otherwise, it can block oil flow through the little lube hole in the input shaft - so be mindful of that.
Sorry, if I am shooting a million and one things to check. I just assume this is your first time tearing one apart and want to make sure you're successful and have no troubles down the road.
You'll also want to pick up a new pickup-tube for the oil pump, those aren't serviceable.
There's a passage through the main-shaft that supplies oil to the front assembly(planet, input pocket bearing, input shaft bearing, range fork and hub), you'll want to check that for blockage and push something like brake cleaner and then wd-40 though the shaft. You can blow it out with air when you're done, if you particular about fluids mixing.
The pocket bearing on the input shaft has a certain depth to be pushed in too. Otherwise, it can block oil flow through the little lube hole in the input shaft - so be mindful of that.
Sorry, if I am shooting a million and one things to check. I just assume this is your first time tearing one apart and want to make sure you're successful and have no troubles down the road.