Yeah, but used cases are a gamble too. Here, he can rebuild it (cheaper than $800) and have practically a new case and sounds like he enjoys doing things like this.
2006 LBZ 4wd Issue
- Thread starter Santos_LBZ
- Start date
Yeah I considered a rebuilt found one for like 1150. They claim a new chain, bearings, seals, and then what ever was wrong with it
I will probably replace the fork as well cuz it's not that expensive. Yeah I figured the synchro most likely is bad haven't opened that part.
I'll check the mainshaft when I take a look at it again.
Right now I'm stuck on the input shaft snap ring
I will probably replace the fork as well cuz it's not that expensive. Yeah I figured the synchro most likely is bad haven't opened that part.
I'll check the mainshaft when I take a look at it again.
Right now I'm stuck on the input shaft snap ring
Duckbill snap-ring pliers and fiddling is about the only advice I can offer on that and try not to gouge the seal surface - leads to leaking into the transmission, lol.
Just ordered a set from the local NAPA gonna pick them up tomorrow morning then I'll get into it more
On the filter do I just need to replace the screen piece or the screen and the tube?
Also there is two dots on the sprockets. But they weren't lined up to each other is that factor or from someone who opened the case
Also there is two dots on the sprockets. But they weren't lined up to each other is that factor or from someone who opened the case
I prefer to do the screen and tube together. I don't trust pulling the screen from the tube and putting in a new one, as that tubing isn't too flexible.
Like casting dots or the marker dots you use to remind you that you've tighten a bolt? If the later, they likely used it to mark where the chain was on the sprocket - it's good practice to keep them in relation if you have to take the case apart.
The pump saver plate and sealant color is indication to me the case has been opened before.
Like casting dots or the marker dots you use to remind you that you've tighten a bolt? If the later, they likely used it to mark where the chain was on the sprocket - it's good practice to keep them in relation if you have to take the case apart.
The pump saver plate and sealant color is indication to me the case has been opened before.
Ehh, there's not a super reliable way to, there's specialty tools that exist and typically only the manufactures have the tool to properly measure the chain. Morse says shops typically have somewhere in the area of 50% accuracy in properly measure a chain too.
With 200k miles, I would replace the chain. Most transfer cases recommend around 60-120k miles on a chain... Granted, the 263 chain is a roller pin and a lot stronger, 200k is about that limit in my opinion, especially if you use 4x4 often.
With 200k miles, I would replace the chain. Most transfer cases recommend around 60-120k miles on a chain... Granted, the 263 chain is a roller pin and a lot stronger, 200k is about that limit in my opinion, especially if you use 4x4 often.
So the planetary looks good. Lots of the caked on grease or oil. The synchros will need to be replaced.
How do I know if the bushing in the rear half of the case is good? As well as the main shaft, the input shaft, and the pump
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You're supposed to replace it when you rebuild the case - it does require a special tool or some creativity to remove and install it properly though.
The main-shaft there's really not way to check it's condition outside of twisted splines, pitting or scaring damage of the journal surface and making sure the oil passages are clear of debris and free flowing.
The input shaft, you want to make sure there's no major scaring/gashes on the sealing surface, no chipped teeth and you'll want to replace the pocket bearing.
Pump wise, I haven't the slightest clue; I've never ran into issues with one outside of the screen getting clogged or pump rub. They're a gerotor pump and fairly reliable; however, I'm not aware of the specifications to check one - sorry not much help on that note.
I will say one big issue you has is oil flow though. Oil shouldn't cake on the input shaft like that. I improperly seated a pocket bearing in my input shaft when I was testing my custom 246 and it pumped all the oil (2.3Q) into the transmission in under 50 miles - mind you it was still seated, just cockeyed slightly; it still had the pressure and flow to push oil in a very small gap.
So it is possible that pump is bad, the screen was really clogged or the o-ring into the pump was bad. You likely can submerge the screen in atf then manually turn the oil pump and see if it squirts oil - I just don't know if you turning it by hand would prime it though, I have never tried that. That's my ideas at least, maybe someone can chime in on that note.
I think what more than likely happened is the fork pad got worn down and then ground into a powder> then started clogging the screen> that reduced oil flow to the syncho> then that got grounded down and really blocked flow> then it started getting hot and cooking oil on the input shaft. That's my speculation at least.
The main-shaft there's really not way to check it's condition outside of twisted splines, pitting or scaring damage of the journal surface and making sure the oil passages are clear of debris and free flowing.
The input shaft, you want to make sure there's no major scaring/gashes on the sealing surface, no chipped teeth and you'll want to replace the pocket bearing.
Pump wise, I haven't the slightest clue; I've never ran into issues with one outside of the screen getting clogged or pump rub. They're a gerotor pump and fairly reliable; however, I'm not aware of the specifications to check one - sorry not much help on that note.
I will say one big issue you has is oil flow though. Oil shouldn't cake on the input shaft like that. I improperly seated a pocket bearing in my input shaft when I was testing my custom 246 and it pumped all the oil (2.3Q) into the transmission in under 50 miles - mind you it was still seated, just cockeyed slightly; it still had the pressure and flow to push oil in a very small gap.
So it is possible that pump is bad, the screen was really clogged or the o-ring into the pump was bad. You likely can submerge the screen in atf then manually turn the oil pump and see if it squirts oil - I just don't know if you turning it by hand would prime it though, I have never tried that. That's my ideas at least, maybe someone can chime in on that note.
I think what more than likely happened is the fork pad got worn down and then ground into a powder> then started clogging the screen> that reduced oil flow to the syncho> then that got grounded down and really blocked flow> then it started getting hot and cooking oil on the input shaft. That's my speculation at least.
Yeah I so far I think I know what all needs to be replace looks like I'll be doing the chain, bearings, bushings, oil pump and screen, both forms and the range hub, and if I can get a shop to do the bushing and the other two pressed in bearings
Should the front output shaft have been held in by a snap ring? I removed the seal and the front output shaft fell right out should it have been held into the case after the seal was removed or does the seal keep it in place?
So got all the part for the rebuild ended up being more than I wanted to spend. But the transfer case got all new bearings and seals, new Planetary Gear, new mode and range fork along with a new hub, new sychro assembly, New shift rail, needed a new tone ring, a new chain, an oil pump, an upgraded pump rub plate, and a new tail housing bushing.
So installed the t-case check all fluids and went for a test drive then. It Kicked made a grinding noise and then I got the codes P0700 and P0735. Not sure what it could be but it limped the tramission and stayed in 4th till I cleared it. Then it did it again but didn't set a code.
This is likely speed sensor related or incorrect reassembly. Why did you need a new tone wheel and what part number did you get? New case-half? If so, some of the aftermarket ones had an issues of the speed sensor hole not being machined at the right depth. Therefore, the sensor sat closer to the tone wheel than it should have and it eats the face of the sensor.
Also, front output shaft is held in place by a snap-ring on the snout of the shaft to the bearing and the bearing is held into the case by a large clip-ring.
Also, why a new shift-rail? This sounds like it's slipping in and out of 2wd. I'm more leaning on improper reassembly. What part number did you use for the forks and hub?
Also, why a new shift-rail? This sounds like it's slipping in and out of 2wd. I'm more leaning on improper reassembly. What part number did you use for the forks and hub?
Well the tone wheeel had an uneven groove all the way around so got a new one, the shift rail had grooves from the mode shift fork worn into causing it to it be smooth, the parts are all the correct ones. I just ordered a new rear case half. the rear snap ring had way too much play so I just decided to order a replacement to be on the safe side. I removed the case and took it all apart and everything inside was good besides the rear bearing and shaft having play. But now I'm gonna reassemble and then check out the shift motor because I think it may not be disengaging All the way.