2006 LBZ 4wd Issue

[Santos_LBZ]

So I've gone to the Oceano Dunes a few times in Pismo.Well the last time I went I towed a car trailer well I couldn't pull it to camp. Well previously I've noticed lack of torque in 4wd hi and Low. So we unloaded the trailer and it pulled up a little better. It had a RZR1000 and an older model side by side ranger. Well then on the way out we tried to leave with them loaded up and it was a no go for sure. Well I got stuck and we noticed there wasn't really equal torque in the front end the driver side tire was spinning and pulled but the passenger wasn't moving. But I've always notice a humming when driving in 4wd well today I think I narrowed it down to the front differential. So I jacked up the front end and put it in 4wd and when I spun the left the right spun visa versa. But theres a load clanking when turning the front wheels when the back wheels are on the ground. And I kind of narrowed the noise down to directly behind the output for the front driveline. I pulled the front actuator and engaged it and it moves good and with the front actuator disconnected you can hear the transfer case one engage as well. But today i disconnected the front actuator and rolled the pick up forward and engaged 4wd and you can here thet transfer case engaging but it a loud clunk and I've found in the time I've owned the pick up I can only engage it at a dead stop to avoid the noise. My CVs, front wheel hub bearings, tires and
Driveline ujoints are all good. Some post say something about a fork to
Engage the 4wd but how does one actually go about diagnosing the cause prior to tossing parts at it?

 

[Santos_LBZ]

Now having like a loud clunk when cruising sounds like something is spinning then catching every once in a while. Need help daily driver.

 

[Rancelot211]

I broke the fork and slider in my front diff. Didn't get any noise from it. The pass side axle tube had to come off and the two nuts that holds the axle to the mount. You can leave the actuator in there just unplug it. Took 20 mins to tear down. Mine had 200 chunks in it. Was cheap to fix got the parts from a member on here for 50 shipped. Worth looking at.

 

[WVRigrat05]

I think if the shift fork in the front was broke he'd know it by now, but I could be wrong, mine went all at once with no warning and just a little pop when it went, but mine broke at an idle in low range luckily.

OP, it only takes about 30 minutes to pull the pass side axle hoisin apart to check very easy to do just to verify.

 

[Santos_LBZ]

Front wheels up Back ones on the ground
-In Park
2wd tires free driveline free
4wd tires spin together different directions driveline not free

In drive
2wd front tires free driveline free
4wd driveline locked tires spin

 

[Slowmax]

Have you drained any fluid to see, if it look's like glitter?

 

[Santos_LBZ]

No not yet

 

[Santos_LBZ]

So fluid in the front differential looks fine. Took off the passenger side to see if the fork was damaged and it is not. It's perfectly fine.

 

[minerigger]

Did you jack it up and put it in 4 and see what the tires did? I did this on a 97 halfton chevy and the actuator on the front axle was dead. Put a new one in but no 4 wheel drive. Asked the boss and there is a ball looking deal that needs to be in there for it to engage all the way

 

[chrisuns]

The front differential is open on these trucks. It is normal for the torque to go to the tire with the least traction, which is exactly what you're experiencing.

A slight hum and vibration is also normal from these cases while under load and more pronounced with more drive-line bind: The noise will increase with a large differential of tire sizes front to rear - anything louder than I'd be inspecting the transfer case.

The clunk from engaging into 4x4 when moving sounds like the synchros are worn in the case and/or chain is jumping on the sprockets. I'd also inspect the forks in the case.

To be frank, someone who know's what to look for needs to inspect it. There's too many variables to play with in a situation like this. E.g., you're depiction of one noise or feeling could be totally different from what is or isn't normal.

 

[Santos_LBZ]

Wheel I've had this issue for a while with decreasing performance. And yeah I did also notice the truck was a bit harsh going down the road once the clunking started happening. I do think it is the transfer case is the problem. As far as taking it to a mechanic. That's usually the last thing I want to do mainly because I like tinkering and figuring stuff out on my own and working on my pickup is one of my hobbies. But I drained the transfercase and this is the oil from it. It's dark and has two colors it was changed in August. So I wouldn't say it's overdue

 

[chrisuns]

Looks like water incursion to me based on the color. That could be one of the seals, cracked vent tube or the hose.

They're not bad taking apart, you just have to be diligent to watch what parts are worn.

This is the part that I am wondering if it is worn, as it doesn't sound like it is popping into neutral then back into drive from what you're describing. I'd replace the chain (that could cause the clunking too) and bearings too.

 

[Santos_LBZ]

That's what I was thinking was the chain then I ended what else has work down. So at 200k is a rebuilt one better? And if I did a full rebuild how hard is that is there a kit?

 

[chrisuns]

There's rebuild kits that will include the common wear items: Chain, bearing; seals and case-half. However, they won't include the forks that have the infused plastic on them(if your's is the older style); the mode synchro, nor any hard-parts that may be worn past tolerances. I would expect about $300-450 to repair it diy using high quality seals, Nachi and Koyo bearing - some kits carry the cheaper bearings and there is absolutely a difference in the load supported between cheap and quality ones.

On the notation of difficulty, getting the case out(by yourself) is the most difficult part, apart from the rear snap-ring [{most consumer(Sear's brand) snap-ring pliers don't expand far enough)therefore, I wrap electrical tape around the ends of the pliers to get a few more mm of expansion}].

I would expect 3-6 hours from start-to-finish, taking into account someone who hasn't taken this endeavor on before.

 

[Santos_LBZ]

Oh okay. So I pulled the transfer case. Just wondering is it okay for oil to come out the back of the transmission

 

[Harbin_22]

Oh okay. So I pulled the transfer case. Just wondering is it okay for oil to come out the back of the transmission

Yes, some fluid will come out when you pull the case off

 

[Tothemax]

if you mean atf came out. then yes that normal

 

[TheBac]

Moved this into the Tcase/Axles section.

 

[Santos_LBZ]

Okay I'd say it was roughly a quart. So now I'm stuck at the snap ring for the rear half of the case. But I'll give it another go in the morning. Already broke a brand new snap ring plier. I'm thinking it's not gonna be all that pretty on the inside it smells pretty bad. But once I get it open I'll take some photos

 

[Budneeds2beers]

Dont forget to remove the sensors to take the tail side off. If you try to remove it with them in, you will be buying new. If your having trouble with the snap ring pliers, i used a pair of duckbill pliers Pain in the @$$ but you can do it.