LBZ: 2006 Eng Vibration between 1200 to 1500 RPM

[Hot COCOAL]

Yeah im sure it would, but if you break a 1\2" breaker bar doing a dmax water pump job then that tells you it wasn't very high quality.

I don't own any 3/4" tools and I have never needed them on a dmax.

:roflmao:
The water pump bolts can be removed with 1/4" drive tools, the pump itself is cake

It's the crank balancer bolt that's the beotch!

Lucky you that you haven't needed any 3/4" drive tools for any work you've done on a D-max, I hadn't needed any either...until I did!

I've read now of several guys that have broke a 1/2" drive bar at the head trying to get that damn bolt free, if it could possibly save a guy some headache and maybe some broken tools and money (either in tools and/or collateral damage) in the long run I figure why chance it...from my experience a 3/4" drive breaker is a better option
:hug:

I try to give the best advise I can and know up-front whenever I can, I broke a 1/2" drive breaker bar on the balancer bolt, it wasnt Snap-On or Matco quality, but it was decent and it was practically new.

 

[Bustedknuckles]

My Matco half inch drive held up but it was bending bad! Honda crank bolts are actually tighter sometimes but this was crazy tight!

 

[02greysixer]

I bent the hell out of my 1/2" breaker bar on the last water pump I did. A 3/4 drive is better, even if it is a cheap harbor freight one. It's kind of like towing 10k lbs with a 1/2 ton instead of an HD. It can be done but there is an easier safer way.

 

[OregonDMAX]

:roflmao:
The water pump bolts can be removed with 1/4" drive tools, the pump itself is cake

It's the crank balancer bolt that's the beotch!

Thank you Capitan obvious... What's involved In a waterpump JOB... Removing the crank balancer... :thumb:

All im saying is yes 3/4 drive is probably a good idea but my 1/2 did the job just fine with no signs of breaking and I'm still using it today, and I use my MAC tools professionally so its not like it was brand new when I did the job.

 

[TheBac]

Guys, are you really arguing about breaker bar quality in this guy's thread? Seriously? :doh:

 

[dmaxfireman]

Are you running twins / triples or any other accessories hanging off the side of the motor? I had a cracked brace on a set of twins that had this symptom.

 

[Macon Rounds]

Engine Vibration Eliminated

Up date on engine vibration problem. SHortly after making this post my engine squaked a Mass Air Flow code. So i changed the MAP sensor and installed a new air filter. Vibration was still evident at the 1200 thru 1500 RPM range but was greatly reduced and almost not noticable. Further research and advice from a certified GM mechanic suggested useing the Diesel fuel additive "STANADYNE" ...... It worked !!!!! after running two tanks of fuel with STANADYNE mixed as recomended.... The vibration is GONE !!!!
Hope this helps some of you other fellas.

 

[JoshH]

That's good to hear you got it figured out, and thanks for updating us on the fix. :thumb:

 

[Fingers]

Sounds like it was an injector then.