1967 RS Duramax Camaro
- Thread starter dslhtrdr
- Start date
There's still a lot to do, so I'll be posting much more in the months to come.
You have some serious fab skills.....Don't think I could even draw welds like you have done in some tight spots.
Dude, AWESOME build! I think i actually remember selling you the Kit after you and Ron had spoken. You should give him a shout, he has the same build you have going !
You can get a bunch more room, and can drop the motor another 2" if you notch the upper pan too. We ended up doing that in the Chevelle, along with adding dual kickouts to the lower pan for more oil. Nice project, good to see another old school to add to the list. We will have the Chevelle in Redding, but the Nova won't be ready.
Did that a couple years ago. I had the front of it machined down and had an aluminum plate welded on. '67-'69 camaro's have more slope to the nose than chevelles do, so less room to begin with.
Looking forward to meeting you guys up there.
Here's a couple from when I first set it in there.
Thank you! I'm pretty proud of them, especially since this is my first time doing any real fabrication and welding.
Thank you for the compliments. I need to get back in touch with you guys again to order the torque converter, but that won't be for awhile still. Ron didn't mention anything over the phone when I was talking to him about it, sneaky bastard, lol. Is his a '67 rally sport too?
So far only an egr delete has been done. It will stay mostly stock for awhile. I don't have enough money to really do much to it, besides efi live, but I am open to suggestions. Twins would be cool, but I've seen that rpm is helping Rick put triples on his Chevelle...
Thanks guys, and yes the block is all stock for now.
Thanks, I hope it's fast when it's done, lol. I know a guy that got into the 12's with just a lift pump, tranny and efi live in a rclb lifted 4x4 lly, so we'll see what half the weight and similar mods can do.
Very nice build!
One thing I would watch for is cracking at the welds of the roll cage joints. While they do look nice the method that you used (triggering or bump and run) does not always allow for a complete fusion due to a lack of heat applied. A solid bead with up and down oscillation is a much better option for roll cage joints. You get constant heat and an even bead all the way around.
Hopefully in your case you will be ok. If they do begin to crack it will not be in the middle of the weld but at the top or bottom of the bead where it will pull away from the tubing. Just be sure to check it from time to time.
Good luck with the rest of the build!
One thing I would watch for is cracking at the welds of the roll cage joints. While they do look nice the method that you used (triggering or bump and run) does not always allow for a complete fusion due to a lack of heat applied. A solid bead with up and down oscillation is a much better option for roll cage joints. You get constant heat and an even bead all the way around.
Hopefully in your case you will be ok. If they do begin to crack it will not be in the middle of the weld but at the top or bottom of the bead where it will pull away from the tubing. Just be sure to check it from time to time.
Good luck with the rest of the build!