Here's the beginning of my stainless gauge panel. When I was done with it, I wasn't happy with it. It was too big and bulky. When sitting in the car my knee would block 1 1/2 gauges, so I eventually cut it in half.
1967 RS Duramax Camaro
- Thread starter dslhtrdr
- Start date
Had a buddy of mine who happens to be a glass guy install my front and rear windshields. Reused the original trim.
Some people don't know it but the quarter glass in most pro street cars doesn't roll up or down because of the wheel tubs. I had to slightly modify the tracks, but they otherwise installed without trouble.
Some people don't know it but the quarter glass in most pro street cars doesn't roll up or down because of the wheel tubs. I had to slightly modify the tracks, but they otherwise installed without trouble.
I bought a B&M Pro Ratchet a couple months ago. I had to make some kind of switch panel to control lock up, overdrive and the trans brake. My first attempt didn't turn out so well, so this was my second attempt.
Final shot done before I cut down the gauge panel. The red light is for the line lock so I know when the front tires are locked in the burn out box.
Final shot done before I cut down the gauge panel. The red light is for the line lock so I know when the front tires are locked in the burn out box.
I got the carpet mostly installed. Had to trim it around the roll cage, but I'm pretty happy with how it fits. Got the shifter and all that wiring buttoned up as well.
Also got the sending unit in the fuel cell wired up to my fuel gauge.
And wired up the Rally Sport reverse lights up to my shifter. This is the first time they've worked properly the whole time I've owned it.
Also got the sending unit in the fuel cell wired up to my fuel gauge.
And wired up the Rally Sport reverse lights up to my shifter. This is the first time they've worked properly the whole time I've owned it.
Had to modify the upper portion of the battery tray/clamp for the military spec battery cable terminals.
Also bought PPE's digital to analog tach signal converter box a couple months ago. I finished wiring that up this evening.
I decided that since I still had 4 gauges to mount, and not much interior space left without obstructing my view, I made good use of some of the cowl induction portion of my 4" hood.
Also bought PPE's digital to analog tach signal converter box a couple months ago. I finished wiring that up this evening.
I decided that since I still had 4 gauges to mount, and not much interior space left without obstructing my view, I made good use of some of the cowl induction portion of my 4" hood.
Got the correct adapter for the mechanical oil pressure gauge. Tapped into the port between the trans adapter and the oil filter.
Bought the Dorman a/c bypass pulley. Paid less than $35 from napa.
Mounted the hood after installing the gauges. You can't tell which is which in the picture, but they are very easy to see when sitting inside the car.
Bought the Dorman a/c bypass pulley. Paid less than $35 from napa.
Mounted the hood after installing the gauges. You can't tell which is which in the picture, but they are very easy to see when sitting inside the car.
Got the driveshaft made at Santa Rosa Driveline Service. It fits perfect.
Rebuilt the rear brake calipers and finished the rear sway bar.
Rebuilt the rear brake calipers and finished the rear sway bar.
That's it for now. I would have tried removing the glow plugs and cranking it but the battery was getting low and had to recharge it. I was also getting angry so it was best to walk away.
I will be calling PPE tomorrow and asking a few questions. I still hope it has to do with this VATS crap. We shall see...
I will be calling PPE tomorrow and asking a few questions. I still hope it has to do with this VATS crap. We shall see...
I'm still chuckling about the stock AM radio. I remember those days. :roflmao:
Car looks great! I agree with the other guys that the no-start is in the tuning.
Car looks great! I agree with the other guys that the no-start is in the tuning.
The more I think about it the more I think you guys are right. I'm just new to the electronic tuning world, and sometimes it takes me a few tries of hands on trial and error to get the hang of it. I need to finish making my brake lines so when it does run I can drive it around our parking lot and stop it :rofl: Still need to buy pipe and hoses to get the rest if the plumbing done, then it will be road worthy.
I'd recommend you give Russ at RPM Performance &/or Rob at ATP or Jeff Dean (stingpuller) or Ben @BT Dieselworks a call in addition to PPE. All have experience with lbz conversion vehicles & have a good understanding of the required tuning & potential hiccups.
I feel your pain and wish I would have read this thread this morning before we left Fortuna. we took 101 all the way to santa rosa for the drive home, we could have probably stopped by and checked it out, maybe given you a hand in getting it running. I think your in that neck of the woods, right?
anyways, first...... you do not need the TCM at all. as long as the wiring is correct it will fire without communication with the TCM. I was told that several times when switching over to the LBZ and not true.
second, the VATS will be an issue but it should still allow it to fire and then die. ive ran into that issue with my LBZ, as the tuning I run is locked and a couple times it came not disabled and that's what it would do. fire, run for a few seconds..... maybe 2, then die. but it did run, not just crank.
third, it sounds like a fuel issue.......... only because of the fact that it will fire with the starting fluid then die. so, do you still have the stock filter head?? how about the fuel lines...... return lines.......lift pump..... all of that needs to be looked at. you said you have EFI live, use it if you do it will help figure stuff out. even while cranking.
give me a call and we can trouble shoot over the phone.
Rick 209-986-9706
anyways, first...... you do not need the TCM at all. as long as the wiring is correct it will fire without communication with the TCM. I was told that several times when switching over to the LBZ and not true.
second, the VATS will be an issue but it should still allow it to fire and then die. ive ran into that issue with my LBZ, as the tuning I run is locked and a couple times it came not disabled and that's what it would do. fire, run for a few seconds..... maybe 2, then die. but it did run, not just crank.
third, it sounds like a fuel issue.......... only because of the fact that it will fire with the starting fluid then die. so, do you still have the stock filter head?? how about the fuel lines...... return lines.......lift pump..... all of that needs to be looked at. you said you have EFI live, use it if you do it will help figure stuff out. even while cranking.
give me a call and we can trouble shoot over the phone.
Rick 209-986-9706
I'm not saying this to be combative, but I forgot to hook up my TCM once and the truck would not even engage the starter? Plugged it in and fired right up.
What are you saying, when you say that you don't need the TCM for the engine to fire? I don't get it? Explain how please...
never said you were being combative, just wanted to reassure him that it isn't necessary. I cant explain why or how it works, just know that when I start my chevelle.......... it doesn't have an issue without the TCM, as it has a glide in it. we ran it with 2 different harnesses. one with a TCM harness and one without the TCM harness. both work just fine without the TCM. there are codes, but none of those codes ever stopped it from starting. maybe issues with driving or 'dead peddle' but not starting.
just my 2 cents and experience.
just my 2 cents and experience.
Jason, difference is probably that Ricks tuning was made to not look for and/or ignore that no tcm was there whereas yours was "normal" & still looking it for it but not getting it & as you see, said no start for you.
I think the no crank has more to do with wiring than tuning. The neutral safety switch runs through the TCM, so if it doesn't get a signal that the trans is in park or neutral, it won't turn over. It should still run if it actually turns over.
Thanks for the compliment guys. I hope I get this resolved so I can get it on the road sooner than later...
Thanks for the advice. I will call everybody I need to, god forbid :rofl: I will probably frustrate everybody with my stupid questions...
Dang, that would have been awesome if you guys could have stopped by. Our shop is about ~15 minutes off of 101 in Santa Rosa. Would have been cool to finally meet you guys and check out your chevelle.
I still have the stock filter head (filter is destroyed), stock inlet and the remainder of the factory test port. Only lift pump I have is the quick fuel pump. And I do not have EFI live, only the PPE Hot +2 xcellerator that came with the standalone harness. A member on here who lives about 30-45 minutes from me offered to scan it with his EFI, and I might have to take him up on it if I can't resolve this in my own.
Thanks for the tips am offer Rick, I would like to troubleshoot it over the phone with you :thumb:
Thanks for the advice. I will call everybody I need to, god forbid :rofl: I will probably frustrate everybody with my stupid questions...
Dang, that would have been awesome if you guys could have stopped by. Our shop is about ~15 minutes off of 101 in Santa Rosa. Would have been cool to finally meet you guys and check out your chevelle.
I still have the stock filter head (filter is destroyed), stock inlet and the remainder of the factory test port. Only lift pump I have is the quick fuel pump. And I do not have EFI live, only the PPE Hot +2 xcellerator that came with the standalone harness. A member on here who lives about 30-45 minutes from me offered to scan it with his EFI, and I might have to take him up on it if I can't resolve this in my own.
Thanks for the tips am offer Rick, I would like to troubleshoot it over the phone with you :thumb: