13.9's ???

custom8726

Active member
Feb 25, 2008
2,784
0
36
Upstate N.Y
Change filter
Tire PSI less then 40lb, keep lowering until they hook.
Clamp front and rear
10lb boosted launch

Stage the truck on the first light and start building boost. Wait for your opnent to stage first light before you light both yellows. It will allow you to get ready.

So I am getting conflicting info here on the spring clamps 1 or 2 sets for drag racing? Front of springs or back? or both? When you are staging are there sensors on there that let you know when you are at the line or do they work differently, like a timer after the first stage untill the second?
 

2500HeavyDuty

Book 'em, Danno!
Feb 14, 2008
2,209
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Katy, Tx
www.myspace.com
drop the front T bars. There are sensors that let you know that you are at the lights. if you hold down the brakes hard enough you can creep though the stage lights and build boost at the same time.

and change that fuel filter
 

gmduramax

Shits broke
Jun 12, 2008
4,072
248
63
Nor cal
So I am getting conflicting info here on the spring clamps 1 or 2 sets for drag racing? Front of springs or back? or both? When you are staging are there sensors on there that let you know when you are at the line or do they work differently, like a timer after the first stage untill the second?

For drag racing 1 set, you only need to clamp the front of the spring packs
 

custom8726

Active member
Feb 25, 2008
2,784
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36
Upstate N.Y
I will give it another go next wednesday, hopefully with some better results. I have been messing around a little bit locally doing boosted launches and such.
 

RPM Motorsports

smokinum
May 13, 2008
3,271
10
38
Central Valley Ca.
I use clamps on the front and back, Im cutting 1.71 60' with the stock 245's @ 30lb. front 22lb. back. The first yellow light you see come on is a pre stage light. Stop here hold brakes and build around 10lb boost. Once you have the boost up and your opponent has lit a light you can full stage by slightly releasing the brake until the 2nd yellow is lit. It is a drag racer curticy to let your opponent light a light before you fully stage. Once both people have two yellow lights lit, the clock will start counting down. You will need to train yourself to leave as soon as you see the 3rd yellow come on. Don't wait for the green or your reaction times will be high. It takes something like .200sec. for your eye to tell your brain to go, and another .200 for your brain to tell your foot to go. That's why you leave on the third yellow. Take small steps and worry about how to stage/build boost before confusing yourself too much.
 
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custom8726

Active member
Feb 25, 2008
2,784
0
36
Upstate N.Y
I use clamps on the front and back, Im cutting 1.71 60' with the stock 245's @ 30lb. front 22lb. back. The first yellow light you see come on is a pre stage light. Stop here hold brakes and build around 10lb boost. Once you have the boost up and your opponent has lit a light you can full stage by slightly releasing the brake until the 2nd yellow is lit. It is a drag racer curticy to let your opponent light a light before you fully stage. Once both people have two yellow lights lit, the clock will start counting down. You will need to train yourself to leave as soon as you see the 3rd yellow come on. Don't wait for the green or your reaction times will be high. It takes something like .200sec. for your eye to tell your brain to go, and another .200 for your brain to tell your foot to go. That's why you leave on the third yellow. Take small steps and worry about how to stage/build boost before confusing yourself too much.

Thanks again!! I really can not wait to get my truck dialed in. Tonight I had a guy with a dodge v10 shooting his moulth about how bad ass his truck was. I told him it should be for a 50k 2 wheeler but regardless lets line them up and see what they do? No, No, he replied I only race at the track. So aparently we are runing them on wednesday, at the track. Will see:rolleyes: At the track maybe but in my back yard no way!! I have been racing for a good amount of time now just not in a sactioned manor, well 4 days to get my sh!t
together.
 

custom8726

Active member
Feb 25, 2008
2,784
0
36
Upstate N.Y
Today I changed all my fluids and filters, put my stock wheels with the 285's back on, made a set of spring clamps and clamped the front of my leaf springs, removed my spare tire and all of the other excess weight from my truck, droped my torsion bars way down, I had to ajust them back up about 5 turns so I could drive it the 30 miles to the strip tomorrow. I am going to drop them back down to the bump stops at the track tomorrow. Also I plan on removing the p-side head light and tail gate at the track tommorow and lower the tire pressure down to around 30lbs front and 40lbs back. Any last minute recomendations for the newbee drag racer?? And thanks again to everyone for there advice thus far.
 

05_LLY

Out-A-Time
Aug 7, 2006
1,756
1
36
42
Norvelt, PA
all looks pretty good but i would probally do the tires 40F and 30R maybe even a bit less, but youll have to be the judge on that!!!

Good luck!
 

RPM Motorsports

smokinum
May 13, 2008
3,271
10
38
Central Valley Ca.
Deff. go the opposite way with the tire psi. You dont want less in the front (Thats for pull'n the sled). Practice "creeping" forward in a parking lot, while keeping the boost up. It will help you learn what it will feels like trying to stage the second light.
 

Texasmax

New member
Sep 20, 2007
99
0
0
DFW-Texas
Wow that is alot of advise! He is what I do with my truck.

-Drop the front torsion bars all the way down. (Count your turns on both!) I usually lube the bolts before and after.

-4x4 in T/H (Don't forget 4x4 or you will spin!)Don't ask how I know:D (Is yours a 4x4?)

-I do not adjust tire air pressure. (No traction problems)

-I do not watch boost. RPM's at 1800/2000 works better for me. You can go higher if you do not walk.

-It is bad edict to not stage and let the other person wait! (I wouldn't suggest that)

Lose weight where you can (spare tire, back seat, tailgate, etc..)

Change your fuel filter and shut your air conditioner off! I do not clamp anything.


Dix
 
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RPM Motorsports

smokinum
May 13, 2008
3,271
10
38
Central Valley Ca.
If you are refering to my comment about whats racer curticy, I agree with having the other person wait until you stage a light, is not good. But if you light the first light, the ball is in your court. The same goes with the other person. They should stage the first light and wait for you to stage the first light also. I've had people full stage and be on the limiter before I even get to the line, thats on them.
 
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custom8726

Active member
Feb 25, 2008
2,784
0
36
Upstate N.Y
I am happy with the improvement, but I cant help but think the truck has 12sec potential the way it is with a better driver or more seat time by me. Whats next to get me into the 12's?? seat time? or more mods?
 

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'03duramax

I love cheer******s
Sep 16, 2006
190
0
16
WA
Congrats man, nice work. Pickin' up 7 tenths is damn good. MPH still seems kind of low to me considering your mods. But a 1.487 60ft!! That must be a typo...
 

'03duramax

I love cheer******s
Sep 16, 2006
190
0
16
WA
1.4s are very quick 60ft. times, that's why I thought typo. A 1.7 is good for a mid-high 12 sec. I've seen trucks in the 10's running 1.4s. MPH wise, I'd be expecting 102?? someshing like that, just a couple more than you're running now.
 

RPM Motorsports

smokinum
May 13, 2008
3,271
10
38
Central Valley Ca.
1.4 60' is a little off. I think Pat has seen 1.5's on slicks. Looks like you didnt have enough time to build boost. More seat time and prep should get you into the 12's. Your off to a good start!
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 14, 2007
13,701
756
113
Texas!!!
Looks like I'm a little late to give advice here, but it looks like everything is pretty much covered already. For tire pressure, I would recommend about 30 front and 25 rear. I don't clamp my springs, but it shouldn't hurt if you do. I'm just too lazy is all. I've been meaning to do a comparison between clamped and unclamped to see how my 60' times change. I guess it'll have to wait until the truck is back together. I lower my torsion bars until the CV axles are pointing up slightly (my truck seems to sit lower than most so I still have quite a bit of adjustment in my bolts, but some people have to lower theirs all the way to get their truck to sit like mine). I leave at about 2100 RPM with about 15 psi of boost. I run stock PYO wheels with a set of worn 265 A/Ts and cut mid-high 1.6 60' times.

I think maybe you smoked the lights. There's no way you cut a 1.4x 60' with your mods.