LB7: 02 LB7 Audio Overhaul

[Bdsankey]

So while my truck is apart getting an engine overhaul I figure it might not be a bad time to revamp the audio in the truck. The current plan is to have a box made or buy the Gately box to put 4x 6.5" subs behind the rear seat (crew cab). The truck is getting 2x Mechman 240a alternators to feed the audio system as well as my power inverter (5500w cont/8000w peak). I also am going to be replacing all the door speakers since they are some kickers that really could use replacement.

Plan is to put the inverter and amps under the back seat. The plan is to use a Skar RP-1500.1D to power the subs (will discuss options for sub choices in this post) and a Skar RP-150.4AB for the door speakers.


Door Speakers:
I am currently planning on using Image Dynamics ID 65CS speakers (100w @ 4ohm) unless there are any other speakers that perform extremely well under $200 a pair including mid/tweeter/crossover.


Subs:
I am currently torn between 3 different choices. Those are the Sundown Audio SA6.5 (200w rms/400w peak), DC Audio M3 6.5" (300w rms/600w peak) or B2 Audio HNX 6.5" (300w rms/600w peak). Currently I am leaning towards the B2 Audio.


Wiring:
I am planning on running the door speaker wires back up to the head unit area and tapping back into the factory wires for simplicity sake as long as the factory wiring is of sufficent gauge to handle ~150w rms.

 

[gmduramax]

Firstly why 6.5 subs? You have enough room for bigger, if you do chose 6.5’s go with the sundown, I played around with one and it was impressive and had more excursion than the other brands at the time. I did like the 6.5 but it left a lot to be desired for deep bass but it’s response was amazing. I have a dc 8” and that people thought it was a 12”. That was ported tuned to 32 hertz I’d imagine you aren’t doing sealed.

Edit: the sundown I played with was being run with 500 watts rms and it took every bit of it.

 

[Bdsankey]

Firstly why 6.5 subs? You have enough room for bigger, if you do chose 6.5’s go with the sundown, I played around with one and it was impressive and had more excursion than the other brands at the time. I did like the 6.5 but it left a lot to be desired for deep bass but it’s response was amazing. I have a dc 8” and that people thought it was a 12”. That was ported tuned to 32 hertz I’d imagine you aren’t doing sealed.

Edit: the sundown I played with was being run with 500 watts rms and it took every bit of it.

The box will be properly tuned. I’ve been in one truck with 4x 6.5” and another with 2x 8” and one with 2x 10”. The truck with 10s hit the hardest but the truck with 4x 6.5 hit harder than the truck with 2x 8s and was so much cleaner. All parts were quality so it wasn’t due to inferior components.

Sundown, DC, and B2 are all top products. I’ve seen them all take more rms power and not bat an eye. I’ve owned sundown products and they blow me away.


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[bigmackmiller]

Looks like a pretty solid plan, no experience with the smaller subs, but sure any tuned system will sound great, Any plans for sound deadening material? Where do you intend on mounting the amps floor or going to make a rack of some kind?

 

[snowman22]

Just get the airspace right and at least put dynamat or some sound deadening directly behind all the speakers on the cab/doors. Dynamat, correct enclosures, properly tuned/delayed speakers don't get enough credit. The best equipment sounds awful if you ignore those aspects.

 

[Bdsankey]

Looks like a pretty solid plan, no experience with the smaller subs, but sure any tuned system will sound great, Any plans for sound deadening material? Where do you intend on mounting the amps floor or going to make a rack of some kind?

I plan on mounting the amps under the back seat as I don't think there will be enough room on the box. I am working with someone who designs boxes and conveniently has a 05 crew cab to measure off of so fitment should be great. Since I'm paying for the plans I can share them once the box is built and I am pleased with the fitment etc as I don't want to waste anyone's time and money.

Just get the airspace right and at least put dynamat or some sound deadening directly behind all the speakers on the cab/doors. Dynamat, correct enclosures, properly tuned/delayed speakers don't get enough credit. The best equipment sounds awful if you ignore those aspects.

I 100% agree on proper box sizing. Any of the subs I listed will run extremely well in a proper enclosure and handle quite a bit of power. I want to feed them 300w-375w RMS which is within their design targets except Sundown but they're know to handle much more than their advertised wattage (either going 1200w or 1500w RMS on the sub amp).

The plan is to dynamat the interior eventually (floor, firewall, roof, pillars etc). I am planning on doing the firewall and trans tunnel right away with Dynamat then Dynaliner on top (1/2") since I've got to pull the engine/trans for rebuild. I also have to pull the dash out to replace the heater/evap cores and some blend door actuators so I will do the interior side of the firewall then, the floor/roof will have to wait as there is only so much money to go around.

 

[snowman22]

I plan on mounting the amps under the back seat as I don't think there will be enough room on the box.

Don't ever mount to a box. I've seen way too many issues come up after amps get warm and then the vibrations cause intermittent issues with loose solder joints.

 

[Bdsankey]

Don't ever mount to a box. I've seen way too many issues come up after amps get warm and then the vibrations cause intermittent issues with loose solder joints.

Yeah, just read that a few hours ago. They will go under the back seat. I'm going to run 1/0 back there and feed both amps a junction block (both require 4ga). The inverter is going to be a bear of its own.

 

[snowman22]

Yeah, just read that a few hours ago. They will go under the back seat. I'm going to run 1/0 back there and feed both amps a junction block (both require 4ga). The inverter is going to be a bear of its own.

0ga is probably overkill, but can't hurt. I don't envy you trying to get it tucked away. If you still run a dual battery setup a capacitor isn't necessary, but would be a good idea if you have gone down to a single.

 

[Bdsankey]

0ga is probably overkill, but can't hurt. I don't envy you trying to get it tucked away. If you still run a dual battery setup a capacitor isn't necessary, but would be a good idea if you have gone down to a single.

Planning on running 3 batteries once the inverter goes in, at a minimum two. The 2x 240a alternators will handle the load no problem.

 

[baggedLB7]

Man all them batteries and alternators just for 4 6.5" subs?
You going to be running some spl competition's?

 

[Chevy1925]

in my opinion, put the 6.5's subs in the doors, foam cusion behind them and foam ring them to the door grill. dynomat a section of the door skin as well. id run some mids above the subs and tweeters up in the a-pillar and somewhere on the back door. running mids in the back doors might prove to be an issue but a good mid and tweeter might make up for it depending on the music you like to listen to.

id then run a single GOOD 10" with some deep excursion behind the seat. 6.5's just cant move the air to hit 80hz and lower imho. they work, just not going to get that nice deep tone. even a 10 can have issues there unless is a good quality/powerful one. they do work well at 200hz and up though. i almost feel they are a cross between a sub and mid. if you could get the 10" under the console or do a downfire ported to the front, that would dispurse the sub much nicer inside.

i wouldnt run all my bass behind the seat like how everyone did years ago. after being in the new truck, having sounds dispursed equally through out the cab is very nice and you get to hear all the tones without the back becoming much more "bassy" than the front.

Thats what i would have changed in my 02. This is also why cars have "9 speaker system" or a "13 speaker system". they are dispursing the sound out better and giving more clarity for tones based on where they are placed and where you sit. easy to do when you are designing a car though and not working with one already done.

 

[Bdsankey]

Man all them batteries and alternators just for 4 6.5" subs?
You going to be running some spl competition's?

I got the alternators for a steal on someone who had stock they were trying to get out the door.

in my opinion, put the 6.5's subs in the doors, foam cusion behind them and foam ring them to the door grill. dynomat a section of the door skin as well. id run some mids above the subs and tweeters up in the a-pillar and somewhere on the back door. running mids in the back doors might prove to be an issue but a good mid and tweeter might make up for it depending on the music you like to listen to.

id then run a single GOOD 10" with some deep excursion behind the seat. 6.5's just cant move the air to hit 80hz and lower imho. they work, just not going to get that nice deep tone. even a 10 can have issues there unless is a good quality/powerful one. they do work well at 200hz and up though. i almost feel they are a cross between a sub and mid. if you could get the 10" under the console or do a downfire ported to the front, that would dispurse the sub much nicer inside.

i wouldnt run all my bass behind the seat like how everyone did years ago. after being in the new truck, having sounds dispursed equally through out the cab is very nice and you get to hear all the tones without the back becoming much more "bassy" than the front.

Thats what i would have changed in my 02. This is also why cars have "9 speaker system" or a "13 speaker system". they are dispursing the sound out better and giving more clarity for tones based on where they are placed and where you sit. easy to do when you are designing a car though and not working with one already done.

I've thought about doing this but I don't know if the room is there but I also haven't messed with it much. The thought with going to 4x 6.5s behind the rear seat is they will still stay crisp without overpowering the doors. I was planning on running components in all 4 doors.

 

[KyleC4]

I know you said this truck is a tow pig but is it all also going to be the mobile mechanic station? That’s all I can think for the batteries, alternators, and power inverter. Cause it’s more than enough for audio. And if running components with 150w rms I’d definitely run more than the tiny factory speaker wire. If it was 50w I’d say no problem but not for a true 150w rms. Running speaker wire does suck. But who doesn’t like to gut the interior and possibly find more things to replace while they’re at it

 

[Bdsankey]

I know you said this truck is a tow pig but is it all also going to be the mobile mechanic station? That’s all I can think for the batteries, alternators, and power inverter. Cause it’s more than enough for audio. And if running components with 150w rms I’d definitely run more than the tiny factory speaker wire. If it was 50w I’d say no problem but not for a true 150w rms. Running speaker wire does suck. But who doesn’t like to gut the interior and possibly find more things to replace while they’re at it

The goal is to make the truck self-sufficient at races or camping. I've been to many camping spots where the power goes out at the worst time in 95f weather. I got the power inverter cheap as hell ($50 at HayDays a few years ago) and paid under $100 each for the alternators because I bought a bunch for our personal vehicles at the time. Overkill? Yeah, but who doesn't like saving money lol.

 

[KyleC4]

Makes sense. And yes, you can never pass up on a good deal when it’s there. Definitely post pics when this setup is in.

 

[Bdsankey]

Makes sense. And yes, you can never pass up on a good deal when it’s there. Definitely post pics when this setup is in.

Will do! The only real use I can find for the 3rd/4th battery is when the inverter is installed. The two OEM batteries should be able to easily handle ~2500w rms power with two alternators. The only thing I haven't decided on is how I want to wire the second alternator for activation. If I wire it into the ECM as GM intended, it would only turn on when the ECM deems that the factory alternator is insufficient meaning that the main alternator will go close to max duty cycle before the second alternator kicks on. Another option is to tap into the main alternator's activation signal to make them run in parallel instead of series per-say.

 

[RMJ_LB7]

6.5" subs should be interesting! My buddy had a crew cab with 4 8" sub woofers and it sounded amazing, I have 2 10" subs and like them but want to go to 3 10" subs.

I just replaced my door speakers with kickers because I like loud music and have never popped one before so I just stick with what works for me. The inverter is something I want to do to my truck as well.

 

[bigmackmiller]

Brad, did you ever get any of your audio installed?

 

[Bdsankey]

Brad, did you ever get any of your audio installed?

Negative, the truck still doesn't have a proper running engine in it (waiting on pistons).


I have made the decision that I am going to run an Audio Control D-4.800 for the front speakers (Audison APK 165) and I will run them in full active. I also plan on using the D-4.800 to feed the subwoofer as it has a configurable set of output RCAs. I will be using an Audio Control LC-1.800 for the subs (800w RMS @ 2ohm) which matches perfectly with the SA6.5 (200w RMS each). It won't be the hardest hitting system but in terms of sound quality it should be pretty damn awesome. The Audio Control D-4.800 has a 30 band EQ/DSP as well as extremely good crossovers internally. The best part is the amp is controlled from a PC so there is no need to guess at crossover dials or buy another piece of equipment to set them.