@Chevy1925 No codes. I will check again but last time I looked I had no codes.
Scanning with Autel MK808
Scanning with Autel MK808
Service Brake System message
- Thread starter shakenfake
- Start date
What do you have? Higher end snap on, decent autel, tech2 or tech2win will get in there.
Are you able to go into that module by its self?
Are you able to go into that module by its self?
I get that message along with the abs light. I havent bothered to fix it yet, but it's an abs sensor out of spec, probably one of the front hubs. Might be rust under the sensor causing it to be just out of spec distance to tone ring.
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Go into it when you can or do a full system scan on the truck (think it’s health report) where it will scan every single module it can find.
If you get that message, you should have some C codes or U codes in the module and assuming you have not done a “clear all codes” that wipes everything from every module, you will have history codes or current codes in there for the issue
@Chevy1925 Yes that is normally what I do. Only have codes for my seat heaters.
I had a bit too much to drink tonight so I didn't get to doing anything productive today
I had a bit too much to drink tonight so I didn't get to doing anything productive today
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I actually just went out and checked something. I have had the driver battery out of the truck for a few days now. Passenger battery was left in the truck. Pulled the passenger battery out and no shit 0 V. Thought my meter was broken so I checked the sitting battery and it is still at 12.7.
Is that conclusive evidence?
Is that conclusive evidence?
I will be replacing the batteries in pairs.
I was not certain if I could run the truck off of one battery.
I was not certain if I could run the truck off of one battery.
You can if your one good one is still healthy and it's not too cold out. Some people that never use their trucks in the cold have removed one and it still run ok. I'd use it in the passenger side as it's closer to the starter. Don't forget to insulate the positive of the unused cable.
Also, higher cranking amp battery is recommended
Best to just replace both
That’s interesting. Dead/bad batteries could be an issue. It could cause U codes and send those messages but it’s strange you have no history codes unless the battery’s are going dead enough it’s clearing them before you get to scanning the truck?
Driver side pos. terminal bolt replaced with a Schumacher BAF-STB. I did check the cables and there was two flecks of the green on there. Cables looked fine to me, should have grabbed a picture but I didn't... Did clean it but my battery terminal cleaner seems either not to work or it did not detect the corrosion.
I did put the good battery back in. It was at 12.7 volts when installed so I guess we will find out if it is draining with this. Eventually I will get a meter on it.
I did put the good battery back in. It was at 12.7 volts when installed so I guess we will find out if it is draining with this. Eventually I will get a meter on it.
Use some dielectric grease on the bolt and connections between the cables and the batteries. Also they make a specific Terminal cleaner for Side post batteries. No one EVER cleans them when they install a battery. However, It's always a good Idea to do this for the best possible connection with the least amount of resistance.
I prefer this type of brush for cleaning the posts and connector. Made for copper pipe but works well
I've had decent luck with plane ol petroleum jelly or Vaseline. But silicone grease lasts longer for protection against corrosion
I've had decent luck with plane ol petroleum jelly or Vaseline. But silicone grease lasts longer for protection against corrosion
I still need to make it to the parts store to test the other battery. Maybe today between work and school.
Apparently the 0V battery was fine and charged back up and passed the load test. I am going to leave it out over the next few days and check the voltage just to see. At O'Reilly it only charged up to 12.3V apparently.
If it is not the battery then I will start checking the grounds. Put the test lead on battery positive and then the other lead on one of the engine grounds and compare to what the battery is? Is that a bad test? Or should I be testing resistance from one end to the other of the ground?
I'm just still in disbelief over a parasitic draw only because of how fast it took out an entire battery but never once killed both of them and left me with a no start condition.
If it is not the battery then I will start checking the grounds. Put the test lead on battery positive and then the other lead on one of the engine grounds and compare to what the battery is? Is that a bad test? Or should I be testing resistance from one end to the other of the ground?
I'm just still in disbelief over a parasitic draw only because of how fast it took out an entire battery but never once killed both of them and left me with a no start condition.
I just dealt with something similar at the shop. Gal with a Honda accord came in needing an alternator (connector to excite in the alternator side broke off). We charged the battery, replaced alt and off she went. Came back next day saying the battery kept dieing and autozone said it was fine. Again, charged battery, it checked good with our napa electronic tester (500cca of actual 500cca capacity and 12.6v). I left the lights in for 10 min on accident and battery was completely flat. Charged again, tested good again so I warned her, there is something wrong with this battery and she needs to either have us replace it or autozone (original place she got it). In my mind, I’m going “we need an old school load tester to actually see its bad”. Got one ordered in and go figure, gal comes back 2 days later with the same issue and “autozone keeps saying this battery is good but car keeps dieing and saying “check charging system””. Charge the battery and load test it with the analogue one and fucker drops to 5v within 2 sec. BAM! Battery is no good.
I show her, we call autozone ourselves and special one behind the counter has nothing to say when we give them results. Basically says she’s SOL so we cut her a break on a battery and took care of her.
Anyhow, your battery could be fooling the electronic tester when it’s actually bad. That case above isn’t the first time I’ve had this happen lol
I show her, we call autozone ourselves and special one behind the counter has nothing to say when we give them results. Basically says she’s SOL so we cut her a break on a battery and took care of her.
Anyhow, your battery could be fooling the electronic tester when it’s actually bad. That case above isn’t the first time I’ve had this happen lol