Need help, LB7 no start

Feb 3, 2014
19
0
0
San Diego
Hi ya'll, first time poster on DD. I visit this place very often for research and help, you guys are amazing, and now I'm hoping that someone can help me out.

First, I am competent mechanic, but this one has me stumped, I am a shipboard diesel mechanic, can fit the entire block out of my truck and fit it in one cylinder on what I work on, but the controls on my truck are killing me. So here it is....

2003 LB7, ran good with the exception of the common injector issue, smokescreen. Pulled the injectors, got rebuilt ones by Diesel Care in Tennessee, turned mine in as cores. Put it all back together, went to start the truck, and it fired for about a second, then died. Since then I have not been able to get it started. I shot either in it once, just to make sure it would run, it will, so I'm just not getting fuel into it. No smoke from the tail pipe at all.

So, this has been going on for over a month now, between two jobs, moving, only been able to work on it so often. Rebuilt the filter head, no cracks. replaced fuel lines, no air getting into the system. Bled the air out at the injector high pressure lines, plenty of fuel in the tank, new fuel filter. Check the communication path between FICM through injectors and back using the headlight bulb method.

Finally got mad enough, took it to the stealership. They had it for a week and half, couldn't figure it out, wanted an astronomical amount of money just to keep looking. But, in that week and a half, determined that I have 22000psi in the rail while cranking, cranking speed is good, low fuel side holds pressure, high side holds pressure. Says he traded the FICM out with a known good FICM. He never got it to whisper any life either.

I don't get the security light on the dash, but can't say as I have ever seen it. Think I'm going to do the 30 minute relearn tomorrow morning, but next I want to see if the FICM is even getting power, not sure which pin it is on the plug though.

Any help is much appreciated, ideas what to check, how to check, what to do. I'm stumped, stealership no fix, now I'm missing out on camping trips and that sux.
 

dirtydmax

<---up shit creek
Sep 1, 2013
1,072
0
0
45
muskoka,Ont Canada
22,000psi rail while cranking?10mpa 1450 is needed to fire,check connection at fpr to make sure its seated. unplugged connector would explain the high rail.
 
Feb 3, 2014
19
0
0
San Diego
22,000psi rail while cranking?10mpa 1450 is needed to fire,check connection at fpr to make sure its seated. unplugged connector would explain the high rail.

I might be wrong on the extension language, tech said it was at 22, I thought that meant 22,000 psi. I will check that connection first thing this morning and re post.
 

BlackHillsHD

Wrench Swinger
Aug 16, 2014
53
0
0
Rapid City, SD
I would say if it ran before the injectors, and you have rail pressure, you could have just got a junk set. Could try capping off one bank or the other to see if it will start.
 
Feb 3, 2014
19
0
0
San Diego
I would say if it ran before the injectors, and you have rail pressure, you could have just got a junk set. Could try capping off one bank or the other to see if it will start.

So, you think that the injectors are getting the signal, but not firing as they are supposed to? How do I cap off one bank, what do you mean, disconnect the high side from the pump to one bank rail and cap it?
 
Feb 3, 2014
19
0
0
San Diego
Can you find out what the actual vs desired fuel rail pressure is while cranking?

I have heard that referanced a few times in other places...not sure how to check that, I don't have a tech 2 or any kind of scan tool other than a simple OBDII code reader to pull it up with. Is there a way to check that?
 

BlackHillsHD

Wrench Swinger
Aug 16, 2014
53
0
0
Rapid City, SD
Fuel line blocking caps. They are a special tool. Or you can cut up an old line and weld it shut. Pull your ac compressor and you can get to your high side distribution block. Then u can block off one side or the other to see if it starts. Unfortunately without a scan tool you are shooting in the dark and can't watch fuel pressure.
 
Feb 3, 2014
19
0
0
San Diego
Fuel line blocking caps. They are a special tool. Or you can cut up an old line and weld it shut. Pull your ac compressor and you can get to your high side distribution block. Then u can block off one side or the other to see if it starts. Unfortunately without a scan tool you are shooting in the dark and can't watch fuel pressure.

Ok, so this would be to rule out one bank dumping all of the rail pressure to the return? So, the difference between actual and desired rail pressure is what?
 

Brent@LDS

Vendor
Vendor/Sponsor
Aug 23, 2011
651
1
18
Wisconsin
I have heard that referanced a few times in other places...not sure how to check that, I don't have a tech 2 or any kind of scan tool other than a simple OBDII code reader to pull it up with. Is there a way to check that?

Any higher end scanner or an Edge CS/CTS will read this for.
 
Feb 3, 2014
19
0
0
San Diego
That is correct.

Cool, thank you.

I pulled the injectors out, sending them back for testing. Saw nothing wrong along the way. Once they get back, install, try again, then going to try to get the actual pressure, plan on capping off one bank and try it, then the other bank, one injector at a time....see which one is causing my probable loss of rail pressure.

I thank you guys for your advice and help, I will update as soon as I make further progress.
 
Feb 3, 2014
19
0
0
San Diego
I do have another question....the high pressure fuel lines. At the injector, the corrosion. Each one of them has what I think is a good clean surface for the metal to metal seal, but maybe one of them is leaking? I don't seem to be making oil, can't smell it on the dipstick, but....is it worth it to just buy new? They aren't cheap, or is there some kind of criteria I can put on these to determine replace or not?
 

jdlover1

437 Cubic Inches
Oct 4, 2006
538
0
16
chapanoke,nc
the high pressure lines need to be cleaned really good. I took a wire wheel on a die grinder to clean up the seats on the them. and put the lines in a ultra sonic cleaner to clean the inside of the pipes out. When you put them back on make sure to put rtv sealant around the top on the nut to keep trash and dirt out of them
 
Feb 3, 2014
19
0
0
San Diego
So....update. I got brand new injector feed lines from Pensacola...installed, still same issue. Primed for about an hour last night, no start. Same same same. So, getting caps made from the old lines, going to try to isolate each bank and try that. Found a guy with EFI Live, hoping he can make it over Saturday to pull actual rail pressure....

I have been told that the coolant low sensor will give a crank no start? Is this true? How do I check it?

Also, is there any way to test if the FICM is actually pulsing the injector? Special Noid light maybe?