Fuel pressure regulator
- Thread starter khewell
- Start date
I gotta do mine. This is the best DIY I've seen. It may be on an LB7, but the procedure is similar on all of them.
http://www.dieselbombers.com/chevrolet-diesel-tech-articles/21723-dmax-replacing-fca-k-fpr.html
http://www.dieselbombers.com/chevrolet-diesel-tech-articles/21723-dmax-replacing-fca-k-fpr.html
After looking at the DIY article posted, you don't have to remove the t-stat housing and drain the coolant. You just need to remove small hose from the metal x-over pipe that goes from the t-stat housing to the turbo. You will lose a small amount of coolant but a few rags will soak it up. You also don't need to remove the hot pipe from the turbo to intercooler and you don't need to unplug or remove the bail connectors or any wiring on the driver side valve covers.
My reply from a similar thread over on DP...
I had dedicated my Saturday morning to doing this, looked down into the abyss where the fpr resides, and saw the intake crossover tube in the way. I went over my plan of attack and just couldn't muster up the balls to jump into it. I put the mouthpiece back on and here I am today searching again for LLY specific fpr replacement tips and tricks.
"Book time" says this is a 4.2 hour job. I want to do this myself in a bad way. I printed off the GM LLY fpr replacement procedure, but it doesn't say anything about getting around that intake pipe.
the neck that comes off the y pipe is got a rubber O ring that you just pry out then push back in after your done. I did a lly last month.
...just be carefull putting the y bridge inlet back in, the o rings fit around the inlet a little lose and they can get snagged easy going into the y bridge, causing a tear or broken o ring which is no good. at least the LBZ is that way, Havent done a whole lot on the LLY
Any time I rebuild a pump,cylinder or stuff with orings I use some Permatex engine assembly lube. Its like a white grease and i just give the O rings a good coating. That should make it slide right back in the Y bridge and seal up nice!
Took me and a buddy an hour and a half.. the bottom hex bolt took prolly 20 mins by itself to get out. Its gm's idea of a sick joke.
Yeah I do the same, Vaseline works to haha
Even better is using a slightly smaller iD o ring that fits tighter and doesn't slip over the edge!
Did mine last night. I did not remove the thermostat housing or the A/C compressor. I removed the intake and turbo mouthpiece, then the intake elbow (that the egr bolts to) and the horn that is double o-ringed. Did that with the help of a friend and being careful with a couple of thin blade screwdrivers. Then I disconnected the rubber fuel line that runs behind fpr...it was on a hard line on the pass side that turns and points down a little. That's it. The screws are hard to get to, no doubt but the "silicone on the end of the torx bit" trick on the other FPR thread was helpful. Thanks to everyone that posted up all of the knowledge. :thumb:
Hey can somebody help me out I replaced all injectors 2k miles ago in my LB7 and then the truck had a slight rev every 30 seconds in idle. So i put on a new fprv and now it lopes and surges when put on gear at stops. Just needing some help I'm new and trying to learn.the truck is all stock.except the straight pipe and cold air intake.