LMM: fuel filter life 100% to 0% and p0087

mpeters0991

Member
Aug 17, 2010
312
0
16
34
Southeast Iowa
So for some reason my truck is dropping the fuel filter life real quick and will sometimes give me a p0087 but not all the time. I have done some reading on this and some say it could be collapsed fuel lines so I got to looking and found the one by the driver side valve cover was slightly collapsed so I squeezed it back round with a set of pliers and I still had the problem (I just got the hose to replace it but I need to get some new cutting disc for the drimel). When I first got the truck I put a ac delco filter on it (5000 miles ago) and I just tried replacing that today to see if that would fix it by chance and it didn't. I also noticed today that after I went out and drove the truck I would shut it off and was able to pump the fuel filter head like 5 times or so.
When I monitor rail pressure with my v2 the desired keeps up real well till it gets up around 20k and then it really doesn't want to keep up north of that. Some people have said it just needs a lift pump and I have also read that some people would put a lift pump on and it wouldn't fix the problem.

Also I noticed that that fuel line by the valve cover didn't really collapse again when I drove it last.

Anyway I'm just wanting advice on what you guys think and what I should do. Sorry if I was unclear with the problem. If you have any questions just ask and I will try to clarify.
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
7,093
28
48
Boise Idaho
Check the rest of the fuel lines, trans and tank has soft line section as well. I just fixed my dads 08 for collapsed fuel lines at the engine. Which tune is popping the 87 code? How big is it?

Oh and don't use a cutoff wheel on the lines, you will contaminate the fuel lines doing that... Use a miniature tubing cutter, any hardware store will carry them.
 

mpeters0991

Member
Aug 17, 2010
312
0
16
34
Southeast Iowa
I looked at the rest of the lines and they seem alright. I'm thinking maybe that one at the engine is possibly sucking shut at higher pressures then just releasing on its own maybe before I can check it (not sure if they will do that or not). And they aren't real big tunes and I've watched the rail pressure on all the tunes I have and they all show about the same pressure problem, not really wanting to go much north of 20k and it start slowing down at 18k or so on the way up. But to answer you question my biggest tune is roughly 90 over stock.
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
7,093
28
48
Boise Idaho
I looked at the rest of the lines and they seem alright. I'm thinking maybe that one at the engine is possibly sucking shut at higher pressures then just releasing on its own maybe before I can check it (not sure if they will do that or not). And they aren't real big tunes and I've watched the rail pressure on all the tunes I have and they all show about the same pressure problem, not really wanting to go much north of 20k and it start slowing down at 18k or so on the way up. But to answer you question my biggest tune is roughly 90 over stock.

I'm sure it's collapsing under suction and releases once the demand decreases... 90 shouldn't be popping a rail code so 99% sure its the fuel line...

Like I said tubing cutter not dremel:thumb:
 

mpeters0991

Member
Aug 17, 2010
312
0
16
34
Southeast Iowa
I was looking at it today trying figure out how I would get a dremel in there to cut the bottom crimp and it just left me kind of scratching my head lol. Did you just cut the whole crimp and tube its on off or did you take just the crimp off? I know the instructions I have read said use a dremel and cut the crimp and that's it because you want to leave the flared end on it I guess.
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
7,093
28
48
Boise Idaho
I was looking at it today trying figure out how I would get a dremel in there to cut the bottom crimp and it just left me kind of scratching my head lol. Did you just cut the whole crimp and tube its on off or did you take just the crimp off? I know the instructions I have read said use a dremel and cut the crimp and that's it because you want to leave the flared end on it I guess.

You bought a gm repair I'm guessing? I use 1/2 brass ferules and fittings with arctic grade Brake/Fuel line.
 

mpeters0991

Member
Aug 17, 2010
312
0
16
34
Southeast Iowa
You bought a gm repair I'm guessing? I use 1/2 brass ferules and fittings with arctic grade Brake/Fuel line.

No, I was unaware they made a repair kit. I ended up just ordering 2 feet of that parker 601-8 hose. I called my local dealer and they just kind of scratched their head when I asked about this problem.
 

mpeters0991

Member
Aug 17, 2010
312
0
16
34
Southeast Iowa
I'm really considering getting one but I didn't want to do it quite yet and I'm really leaning towards a Fass. I'd also like to know that it's going to fix my problem.
 

RHallenbeck

New member
Aug 21, 2014
50
0
0
Beaumont, Texas
My 2010 LMM had a weird issue. No matter what power setting it was set on it had it. First time you went over 50% power it would build to commanded rail pressure then it would drop pressure to around 8000psi. It would stretch out the gear and shift late. You could then turn around and run it as hard as you wish and it would hold commanded. I changed fuel lines, filter and finally the entire filter head to no resolution.. I researched and researched and finally ran across someone that was having the EXACT same issue as me.. His fix was the lift pump.. I pmed him and asked him if it was still working correctly and said sense the lift pump no more issues.. I purchased the Kennedy kit and installed it and have since not had any more rail pressure issues on any power setting..
 

mpeters0991

Member
Aug 17, 2010
312
0
16
34
Southeast Iowa
See mine will hold command but once it gets north of 20k psi it doesn't really want to keep up. Actually it starts slowing down when it gets around 18k.
 

NC-smokinlmm

<<<Future tuna killer
May 29, 2011
5,038
246
63
At Da Beach
You have damaged the suction side of the cp3 pump from more aggressive fueling, the easiest and cheapest fix is a lift pump. Also you shoud add a race plug to your fuel rail as to eliminate the FPRV from popping open once you fix the RP issue. Fass, Airdog, etc, they all do the same thing, some add extra filtration some don't, that's not needed, just the added fuel pressure...

And as an extra bonus, the lift pump helps keep the rpms where they are supposed to be so the Allison will click off shifts much better after you add a lift pump...
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
7,093
28
48
Boise Idaho
No, I was unaware they made a repair kit. I ended up just ordering 2 feet of that parker 601-8 hose. I called my local dealer and they just kind of scratched their head when I asked about this problem.

I wasn't aware either, which is why I asked. Lift pump would probably fix it but those hoses felt really soft on my dads truck. I would replace the bad one first and see how it acts. Your hydraulic shop should be able to come up with 1/2" compression fittings and be able adapt you to almost any style hose you choose. I highly doubt it hurt the CP3... And most all dealers give the " I never heard of that before" BS :rolleyes:
 

mpeters0991

Member
Aug 17, 2010
312
0
16
34
Southeast Iowa
I wasn't aware either, which is why I asked. Lift pump would probably fix it but those hoses felt really soft on my dads truck. I would replace the bad one first and see how it acts. Your hydraulic shop should be able to come up with 1/2" compression fittings and be able adapt you to almost any style hose you choose. I highly doubt it hurt the CP3... And most all dealers give the " I never heard of that before" BS :rolleyes:


Any chance you have pics of the fix you did? I was just going to cut it like the tab said and then use the hose and 4 hose clamps. Buts it's kind of a bitch to get to


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

mpeters0991

Member
Aug 17, 2010
312
0
16
34
Southeast Iowa
You have damaged the suction side of the cp3 pump from more aggressive fueling, the easiest and cheapest fix is a lift pump. Also you shoud add a race plug to your fuel rail as to eliminate the FPRV from popping open once you fix the RP issue. Fass, Airdog, etc, they all do the same thing, some add extra filtration some don't, that's not needed, just the added fuel pressure...

And as an extra bonus, the lift pump helps keep the rpms where they are supposed to be so the Allison will click off shifts much better after you add a lift pump...


Thanks for the info. I was putting a bug in the wife's ear today that I need one lol

Is there anything wrong with the ppe pump? I know it's about the cheapest one out there so I wasn't sure how the quality was. I'm really leaning towards the fass 150 but that's a good chunk of change


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
7,093
28
48
Boise Idaho
You need the Compression style for the hard fuel lines, I used the push locks on the pump... As far as the PPE pump, all 4 that I installed have died with in a year to a year and half... With that said Dan @ PPE offered to look at them if I would send them back, I never got around to it. I'm using a BD flow max pump now, very robust and very quiet. I just put a Airdog II on my dads LMM with the same issues yours had. I purchased a 6.4 ford kit off of E-bay for 100 bucks brand new... The lines snapped right onto the gm lines allowing me to replace the entire supply line from the tank to the engine. Here are picks of my lift pump setup with the compression fittings and the pushlocks, the line is a Arctic grade Fuel/air brake line that we use in Alaska.
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33017
 

NC-smokinlmm

<<<Future tuna killer
May 29, 2011
5,038
246
63
At Da Beach
Thanks for the info. I was putting a bug in the wife's ear today that I need one lol

Is there anything wrong with the ppe pump? I know it's about the cheapest one out there so I wasn't sure how the quality was. I'm really leaning towards the fass 150 but that's a good chunk of change


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like airdogs, I've had 3 and never an issuse, the extra filtration actually saved my lmm from a bad tank of fuel. The fass is just as good though, its just a preference towards one brand or the other. The PPE pumps dont last, so go a diffrent direction...
 

mpeters0991

Member
Aug 17, 2010
312
0
16
34
Southeast Iowa
You need the Compression style for the hard fuel lines, I used the push locks on the pump... As far as the PPE pump, all 4 that I installed have died with in a year to a year and half... With that said Dan @ PPE offered to look at them if I would send them back, I never got around to it. I'm using a BD flow max pump now, very robust and very quiet. I just put a Airdog II on my dads LMM with the same issues yours had. I purchased a 6.4 ford kit off of E-bay for 100 bucks brand new... The lines snapped right onto the gm lines allowing me to replace the entire supply line from the tank to the engine. Here are picks of my lift pump setup with the compression fittings and the pushlocks, the line is a Arctic grade Fuel/air brake line that we use in Alaska.
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33017
That looks like a hell of a setup you have there.

I like airdogs, I've had 3 and never an issuse, the extra filtration actually saved my lmm from a bad tank of fuel. The fass is just as good though, its just a preference towards one brand or the other. The PPE pumps dont last, so go a diffrent direction...

I'll probably end up going with a fass when I do end up getting one.