LMM: Front Torsion Bar Lifting

[t2timmy]

Sorry I'm sure this topic has been beat do death. I'd like to raise the front end of my 2008 LMM slightly...

But how do you do it?? Any special tools?
And any reason's why you should/shouldn't do it?

I see a ton of other trucks out there that look taller in the front then mine does.
Thanks!

 

[Chevy1925]

if you know its been talked about, a quick search would give you what your looking for

http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/search.php?searchid=4427097

 

[t2timmy]

Thanks. I tried to search but mostly found links to adding leveling kits and such. I guess I'll have to read more of the threads. I'm just looking to see if there is a way to adjust them, like maybe an inch, without a kit? And exactly how to do it? Or if it should not be done. I could swear a guy I know said he just turned some bolts and whalla... I want to do it right though.

 

[duramaxzak]

Yes it can be done very easy by cranking the bolt at end of the torsion bars, I think it's 18mm. Make sure to adjust each side the same and get a front end alignment done afterwards. You can usually go 1-1-1/2" higher with out changing ride quality.

 

[t2timmy]

Awesome thanks! That's what I was looking for. I'm assuming the front should be off the ground (i.e. on a lift or jack stands)? I have a very slight left pull going on so I plan to have the alignment done anyways. I read that you do the equal number of turns, maybe draw a chalk line across the bolt to help count the spins. Any idea if it's clockwise or counter clockwise (righty tighty or lefty loosy)? I'm assuming the righty tighty = raise and lefty loosy = lower I just want to cover everything so there's no surprises.

 

[duramaxzak]

Yes, turn to the right to raise and equal turns. Spray bolts with WD40 or similar and jack front to take some weight off it will make easier to turn bolt.

 

[t2timmy]

Awesome!! Thank you Sir!!! One last question. How far can you turn it? Is there a too far? Or will the bolt just limit out? Is like 1 turn = 1'' in height? I can imagine the torsion bars are under a lot of torque. Is it actually easy or do I have to get a long extension bar on it?

 

[02greysixer]

On my lly I think I went 5 turns with an 18'' breaker bar. Got me just over an inch I believe

sent from a galaxy far far away

 

[t2timmy]

Cool Thanks! I'll guess I'll do five or so turns on each side to see how she looks.

 

[t2timmy]

ALL DONE! Wayy easy! Jacked her up and adjusted a full 10 revolutions on mine with the 18 mm socket. Looks much better. The driver side bolt still has a few threads left. Anyone ever go all the way up, and any reason why I shouldn't? I know that the drive and passenger sides are set differently due to weight distribution with the gas tank and all.
Thanks!

 

[02greysixer]

If you max them out or get close to the max your truck will eat upper ball joints. And probably tie rods. Plus it'll ride rough. you can replace them with the upgraded upper a arm and ball joint. I can't think of the name right now but I'm sure someone else will know it. It's designed for leveled trucks. Gives a lot better range of motion.

sent from a galaxy far far away

 

[c20elephant]

Moog has some adjustable ball joints.

 

[t2timmy]

I honestly can just barely notice a difference in the stance maybe an inch. I'd say the driver side is bolt has maybe a little less than 1/4 thread left. This is on a fully stock application. It looked way nose down before. I'll leave it where it is.. It drove and road the same to me as it was before. Just curious why they'd provide this adjustment if you couldn't go all the way.... hmmm

 

[02greysixer]

If you're going for leveled have you considered lowering the rear any instead of maxing out the front? Unless you tow heavy often there really isn't any reason to have the rear end of these trucks as high as it is when empty. A set of drop shackles can lower the rear 1-2'' without hurting ride or greatly reducing load capacity. Or if you never tow or haul heavy you can remove the over load leaf and actually improve the ride a little. Just my .02 cents.

sent from a galaxy far far away

 

[t2timmy]

I hear ya and agree with you if I wanted to go that route. I don't tow anything YET. I just got the truck about a month ago. I like it's high stance though. Big fan of lifted trucks, having a jeep with 37's on it. No plans to lift this thing anytime soon though. Still paying monthly for it!

 

[02greysixer]

I gotcha, you could always break out the sawzall and put 37s on her with no lift. We're to cheap around here for lifts, trimmings free oke:

sent from a galaxy far far away

 

[c20elephant]

I honestly can just barely notice a difference in the stance maybe an inch. I'd say the driver side is bolt has maybe a little less than 1/4 thread left. This is on a fully stock application. It looked way nose down before. I'll leave it where it is.. It drove and road the same to me as it was before. Just curious whythey'd provide this adjustment if you couldn't go all the way.... hmmm

Torsion bars lose their "spring" overtime just like leaf springs, the adjustment is necessary to compensate for this "sag" for alignment purposes.

 

[t2timmy]

Really.. Didn't know that c20elephant. But it makes sense. The truck only has 33K miles on it so I doubt there sagging yet. Thanks All. Had the alignment done yesterday and she's all straight!

 

[J_Stone06]

Yeah, I did a large fender mod and turned mine up 5 rotations and now I can fit 285's with no rubbing. I hear ya when you say still paying monthly... I'd like to go with a 4" BDS, but with wheels and tires on top of a lift, that would set you back 4-6 grand.

 

[Max Attitude]

I had mine maxed out to fit my 33's. Over the winter the bars sagged just enough to let my tires rub so I put different keys in. Your front shocks will be junk in no time if you don't get the shock extender brackets. The other option is 2'' longer shocks. Mine went bad when I only had 7 turns on my bars before I got my 33's. Some day I will get a 4" lift and put the stock keys back in.