Brass VS new steel piston oil nozzles

Chilly

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Dec 4, 2018
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Ended up ordering two new piston cooling nozzles for my new build. The new ones that came appear to be steel.

What’s the reason for the change up? They seem quite a bit more rigid than the previous brass ones. Just looking with my eyes they appear to have a 20-30% larger inside diameter than the older version.

I guess I will be ordering 6 more. :)
 

kidturbo

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Jul 21, 2010
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GM upgraded them with the LML release. I used to just drill them out, and you are correct these new one are about 25% bigger. The goal is more oil to cool piston bowl area.

Yes I would suggest matching all 8, cause it can't hurt to have more oil volume spraying up there.

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Chevy1925

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i just dont like that they will make a stock oil pump drop pressure under hot oil at idle (01-10 oil pump) so i would make sure you run either the high volume melling or the lml-up pump.

are the bases still plastic?
 

Chilly

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Dec 4, 2018
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Is the LML a direct replacement for the older style oil pump? I am assuming not.

Is the Melling aftermarket actually a higher displacement pump or is just shimmed?
Which is the better of the two between the LML and Melling?
 

kidturbo

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They still have the spring check ball that takes about 25 psi to open. Why I wouldn't be afraid to run em on a lmm pump setup, but I also shim the pump spring with a washer on everything too..

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kidturbo

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Is the LML a direct replacement for the older style oil pump? I am assuming not.

Is the Melling aftermarket actually a higher displacement pump or is just shimmed?
Which is the better of the two between the LML and Melling?
Not direct a replacement. Ya need to either change front cover and balancer to match, or machine down the pump to clear reluctor ring. I've done both, there is a thread or two here on it somewhere..

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Chevy1925

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Is the LML a direct replacement for the older style oil pump? I am assuming not.

Is the Melling aftermarket actually a higher displacement pump or is just shimmed?
Which is the better of the two between the LML and Melling?

The melling pump is different. it uses a cast steel casing instead of aluminum as one major difference. i would run the melling strictly for simplicity sake. just watch yourself in cold weather. the pressure relief valve on the other side of the block isnt enough to bleed all the pressure from the pump under cold weather start and immediate running. a min or two of idle time to heat the oil up is ideal. otherwise i have seen guys blow the freeze plugs out of the oil galley.

ive thought about doing what Kidturbo suggested to a new pump but price difference between the melling and a stocker wasnt much at all. 100 bucks on amazon prime too.
 

kidturbo

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Agree for a stock fitting low hp setup replacement, $100 more isn't worth the extra time and money it takes to do the lml pump swap.

The LML pump has a larger round tube pickup also, so it should out flow the older design if your going big power, or have time to plan the whole upgrade. But it's all about what ya plan to do with it.

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Chilly

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Dec 4, 2018
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I got my hands on a SoCal billet pump. Anyone have any info on running an external relief?
 

Chilly

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Dec 4, 2018
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The PRV in the front cover? Do you happen to know any links or more information on this for modifying it?
Which regulator valve are you referring to?

I was under the impression that this thing flows to much oil for cold starts and I would need an external relief valve dumped back into the pan.
Are you saying that after modifying the factory relief in the front cover I don’t need an external relief?
 

juddski88

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The PRV in the front cover? Do you happen to know any links or more information on this for modifying it?
Which regulator valve are you referring to?

I was under the impression that this thing flows to much oil for cold starts and I would need an external relief valve dumped back into the pan.
Are you saying that after modifying the factory relief in the front cover I don’t need an external relief?

To my knowledge, Socal had a couple versions of the billet pump- one with a flow regulator that was not externally adjustable and one that was. Even the one that was not externally adjustable, could be modified. Now, The relief valve is not able to relieve the volume of oil needed to drop the pressure at it's stock setpoint, it is also not placed in the ideal location to properly protect the oil filter housing from over pressurization. Additionally, a pumps flow capacity should not be so oversized so that it overwhelms the flow regulator (which attempts to keep downstream pressure more consistent since the volume upstream is constantly changing with rpm), nevermind the fact it also then overwhelms the flow capacity of the prv at it's stock setpoint. Not much thought was really put into placing such a massive pump on the market without the proper directions or modifications needed to make the system as a whole work properly.
 

LBZ

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The PRV in the front cover? Do you happen to know any links or more information on this for modifying it?
Which regulator valve are you referring to?

I was under the impression that this thing flows to much oil for cold starts and I would need an external relief valve dumped back into the pan.
Are you saying that after modifying the factory relief in the front cover I don’t need an external relief?



Simon had to do this with Abby when the high flow oil pump first got installed as it was pumping oil past the turbo seals at idle. I think all he did was port the valve but I don’t recall exactly. That was like 10 years ago lol.
 

Chilly

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Dec 4, 2018
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Simon had to do this with Abby when the high flow oil pump first got installed as it was pumping oil past the turbo seals at idle. I think all he did was port the valve but I don’t recall exactly. That was like 10 years ago lol.

Who is “Simon” and how can I get ahold of him? Tried a quick search under Simon, but nothing.
Just wanted to ask him some questions.
 

Bdsankey

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Bringing this back up, so there are no known issues running the LML oil cooling nozzles as long as you run a high volume M316 pump or LML pump? My LB7 has taken a turn for the worse and started to drop oil pressure running ~30-35psi hot towing, ~15-20psi at idle hot. I'm planning on tearing it down for and doing a stock rebuild since it's just a daily driver/tow rig, maybe put in some LML rods since it'll be getting S475 over stock compounds.