06 LBZ P0087 Headache

Kdub613

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Hey guys, brand new to the forum and new to the website. I have been searching all forums for guidance and things to look into before I registered and started a post. I would like to thank you all in advance. As many others, I am having issues with the P0087 Code on my LBZ and I am at a loss of words.

Truck - 06 LBZ (as mentioned above), 160K, K&N Air Filter, Fass 95 Lift Pump, PPE Downpipe, EFI Live with switch. S&B Tank (62 gal)

Background - I have owned this truck for 7 years. When I purchased the truck it already had EFI Live and an intake system on it. In the last 7 years, I think I have moved to a higher tune on EFI, maybe 5 times to see what it can do. I typically forget about it and leave it on the tow tune 60HP (with the exception of smog). I don't really drive the truck that much due to a company truck. We use the truck to tow our 30ft fifth wheel toy hauler.

Issue - within the last 2-3 months the P0087 code popped up and a P003A Code. I had a good friend who has been a GM Mechanic for 20 + years come over with his scanner and gave me some tips to look a the P0087 Code. He suggested to replace the turbo to remove the P003A Code. The Vanes were sticking and that task has since be complete. Moving back to the P0087 code. I immediately replaced the CAT Fuel Filters. Still got the code. I noticed my lift pump wouldn't hold prime. I contacted S&B Tanks, thinking the Fuel Sending Unit was messed up or clogged, they sent over a new sending unit. Still got the code. Replaced the fuel lines from the tank to the lift pump, still got the code. Replaced the Fuel head assembly in the engine bay and replaced the CAT Fuel filter, still have the code. Replaced the FRPV with a PPE. Still have the code.

I have disconnected the lift pump thinking there was an issue with the lift pump and check the vacuum. All within the correct range.

My buddy and I, finally ran the Tech II as we were driving and the truck starts great, runs fine when cruising around. The issue is when I WOT, build boost and the Rail Pressure Demand is 26K PSI and Actual hits about 23K PSI then falls flat on its face.

Injector Balance rates check out. The FPR Demand and Actual match. When at idle, demanding and actual rail pressure match. We check the fuel lines, they are OEM and in great shape near the Transmission and in the engine bay. FRP at idle (warmed up) Actual and Demand run about 4800 +/-.

The only thing that seems odd to us is the FPR Command % is always set at 41% and when I lay into it, it will drop to about 38-39%. When I let off, back to 41%.

My buddy is kind of at a loss as his has never experienced this at GM. I mentioned to him at others online have stated the CP3 does get tired. He mentioned that he hasn't seen that happen on this year truck as the CP3 were proven and never failed. He doesn't think the injectors are the issue. Oddly enough he has an 07 LBZ with 180K miles and his numbers are relatively close to mine with the exception of the FPR Command %. His starts at 41%, when he revs his engine up, the Command % will drop to 32-34%

Speaking out loud, I feel the FPR is acting up and may need to be replaced.

I just don't know where to go from here as all the minor replacement items have been replaced and now it could potentially turn into big dollar repairs.

I am just looking for some advice on the FPR Command % or symptoms for a "tired CP3". Mind you all, there is no issues with starting it, idle, no white smoke or black smoke no issues with cruising it around. Only when I lay into it.

Thank you
 

2004LB7

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Welcome

You are describing all the usual symptoms of a weal CP3. Have you checked the pressure relief valve to make sure it's not leaking?

As for the regulator command,l. It almost sounds like it's in limp or default mode. If I recall correctly, there is a default mode for the regulator that is enabled when it sees conditions outside of what is expected. I don't know what they are but I think over current is one. It stops varying the command and holds a fixed value or something close. Haven't heard it happening for a long time so my memory is fuzzy on the details.

If your buddy has a Tech2 have him use the bidirectional tools to command maximum fuel pressure and see if it can do it
 

Pure Diesel

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Did you change out the return hoses on the injectors, the rubber hoses from the filter head to the cp3? I think there are 5 small rubber hoses for the fuel system. Merchants sells a kit for this.

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Kdub613

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Did you change out the return hoses on the injectors, the rubber hoses from the filter head to the cp3? I think there are 5 small rubber hoses for the fuel system. Merchants sells a kit for this.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
Those lines I have not. I will look them up now. I appreciate the response
 

Kdub613

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Welcome

You are describing all the usual symptoms of a weal CP3. Have you checked the pressure relief valve to make sure it's not leaking?

As for the regulator command,l. It almost sounds like it's in limp or default mode. If I recall correctly, there is a default mode for the regulator that is enabled when it sees conditions outside of what is expected. I don't know what they are but I think over current is one. It stops varying the command and holds a fixed value or something close. Haven't heard it happening for a long time so my memory is fuzzy on the details.

If your buddy has a Tech2 have him use the bidirectional tools to command maximum fuel pressure and see if it can do it
We did command max fuel, everything lined up as it should.
I did reach out to a local diesel shop today and after explaining my situation, he immediately said CP3.

I do have a question, when a pump is wearing out or going weak, is cavitation taking place ?
 

2004LB7

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We did command max fuel, everything lined up as it should.
I did reach out to a local diesel shop today and after explaining my situation, he immediately said CP3.

I do have a question, when a pump is wearing out or going weak, is cavitation taking place ?
Cavitation always takes place. The Way the regulator works is to restrict the intake fuel to the internal cylinders of the pump to control the pressure. If the cylinders are only partially filled on the downstroke then it cavitates. The lift pump, gear and regulator mods are all attempts at filling the pump cylinders as much as possible

When a pump wears out the fuel starts leaking past the piston into the crank area and then out the return
 

LBZ

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Typically you can get a lot of miles out of the cp3 without issue. Definetly more than what you have on the truck anyways, but shit happens. Might be worth it to do a fuel return test also to verify fuel system component condition.

Did you install a PPE plug or a new FPRV?
Wouldn’t hurt to do a bottle test to see if it’s leaking past. You could also unplug the FPR and send it and see if it holds the pressure. That should put it at max RP all the time as you’re eliminating the electrical control side and you prob will get codes for high pressure and whatnot, but it’s risky with a plug or shimmed FPRV as you have no relief in the high pressure system. But at least you will know if your FPR or CP3 is bad at that point.

Also for the price you may just want to windmill a new FPR at it and see if that is the issue. Use a new Bosch one only. Outside of that you could just do the cp3 but it would suck to huck a cp3 at it and have that not fix the problem so I’d leave that as a last resort.
 
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Kdub613

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Typically you can get a lot of miles out of the cp3 without issue. Definetly more than what you have on the truck anyways, but shit happens. Might be worth it to do a fuel return test also to verify fuel system component condition.

Did you install a PPE plug or a new FPRV?
Wouldn’t hurt to do a bottle test to see if it’s leaking past. You could also unplug the FPR and send it and see if it holds the pressure. That should put it at max RP all the time as you’re eliminating the electrical control side and you prob will get codes for high pressure and whatnot, but it’s risky with a plug or shimmed FPRV as you have no relief in the high pressure system. But at least you will know if your FPR or CP3 is bad at that point.

Also for the price you may just want to windmill a new FPR at it and see if that is the issue. Use a new Bosch one only. Outside of that you could just do the cp3 but it would suck to huck a cp3 at it and have that not fix the problem so I’d leave that as a last resort.
Thanks for the advice. I did install a PPE Race Plug. The old FRPV seemed fine but I was just checking the boxes and eliminating items.

I have been kicking the idea of a new FPR over a new CP3 at this point.
 

BLACKMAX1

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Jul 10, 2013
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Do you know what the lift pump pressure is at when WOT? Sounds like either a; collapsed fuel line, FPR, or your CP3. Look over your electrical connections/wires as well.

If you unplug the FPR it will automatically go to high rail pressure so do it at idle.
 

Kdub613

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Do you know what the lift pump pressure is at when WOT? Sounds like either a; collapsed fuel line, FPR, or your CP3. Look over your electrical connections/wires as well.

If you unplug the FPR it will automatically go to high rail pressure so do it at idle.
Lift pump (when hooked up, right now its unplugged and the fuel lines are capped) was providing 8-10PSI at all times. It hit FASS recommended PSI Rating. I looked over all the electrical connections when installing the lift pump and triple checked during this time. I would be furious if there was a connection issue or a broken wire.

For some reason, I am leaning that the FPR is not holding up. I don't know why, but I am having a hard time believing the CP3 is wearing out with the amount of miles I have on the truck, but as mentioned from another member...shit happens.
 

Bdsankey

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Do a return volume test on the injectors and CP3. You have classic symptoms of either worn out injectors or CP3. When LBZ/LMM injectors fail, it typically is the same symptoms you have where the truck cannot keep up with fuel demand.

It's possible that the FPR is sticking but it's not the most common issue with an LBZ regulator compared to the earlier generation trucks.
 

Kdub613

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Do a return volume test on the injectors and CP3. You have classic symptoms of either worn out injectors or CP3. When LBZ/LMM injectors fail, it typically is the same symptoms you have where the truck cannot keep up with fuel demand.

It's possible that the FPR is sticking but it's not the most common issue with an LBZ regulator compared to the earlier generation trucks.
I can do that. What values should I be looking for. I have seen online less then 100 ml over 15 seconds? Is that correct?

thanks
 
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LBZ

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Cranking for 15 seconds, total return should be less than - 60 ml from the cp3, 20 ml from one bank of injectors, 4ml from a single injector, and 100ml total from the entire fuel system.
 
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Kdub613

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I know I am probably doing a couple things ass backwards, but that is on me. I went ahead and replaced the FPR and still have the same issue.

Definitely going to do a return test this weekend. My question is, what is everyone's thoughts on a reman CP3?

Thanks again guys for all the guidance and advice.
 

2004LB7

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I know I am probably doing a couple things ass backwards, but that is on me. I went ahead and replaced the FPR and still have the same issue.

Definitely going to do a return test this weekend. My question is, what is everyone's thoughts on a reman CP3?

Thanks again guys for all the guidance and advice.
Depends on who you get it from
 

2004LB7

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Was narrowing it down to Injectors Direct (as they are 45 min from my house) or Industrial Injection.
Any recommendations?
I'd recommend one of our sponsors here first over anyone else. For one, if you have any troubles they will definitely make it right. Ane second, it helps support this site and keep it alive
 
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Bdsankey

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Was narrowing it down to Injectors Direct (as they are 45 min from my house) or Industrial Injection.
Any recommendations?
I would RUN (not walk) away from Diesel Logic, Injectors Direct, Pensacola Diesel. I have sold a few of the Industrial Injection reman pumps and they've been decent. Bosch also does offer a reman themselves which is a pretty darn good pump.


I'd recommend one of our sponsors here first over anyone else. For one, if you have any troubles they will definitely make it right. Ane second, it helps support this site and keep it alive
^This. While I personally won't say it, I know myself and the other vendors greatly appreciate the business. Supporting this page is not free and I know I personally am not a supporting vendor for the monetary aspect. I personally learned A TON from this page and I want to help keep it going for those who join.

I am also a site sponsor to try and ensure people don't get screwed over or sold a crap package of parts that won't meet their goals. Old school? Sure, but god it's nice when a customer gets a matched set of parts and it meets their goals.
 

Kdub613

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I would RUN (not walk) away from Diesel Logic, Injectors Direct, Pensacola Diesel. I have sold a few of the Industrial Injection reman pumps and they've been decent. Bosch also does offer a reman themselves which is a pretty darn good pump.



^This. While I personally won't say it, I know myself and the other vendors greatly appreciate the business. Supporting this page is not free and I know I personally am not a supporting vendor for the monetary aspect. I personally learned A TON from this page and I want to help keep it going for those who join.

I am also a site sponsor to try and ensure people don't get screwed over or sold a crap package of parts that won't meet their goals. Old school? Sure, but god it's nice when a customer gets a matched set of parts and it meets their goals.
Thanks for the info.