Y bridge
- Thread starter Bonestock
- Start date
Tighten the lower ones first???
I imagine you probably already tried that, but that's what I wound up doing with the one I got from all seasons/DHD...
First I put a little Vaseline on the gaskets, then I practically had to stand on the center of the bridge to get it to sit down in the V between the runners.
Then, I started with the lowers and snugged them up good, then snugged the top but not as tight (there was a slight gap at he top but the bottom was good) then I went to one lower and got it to probably 25-30 ft lb, then went around in what I guess you'd call a cross X pattern starting on the bottom four corners and crisscrossing up to the top and ended up probably putting 35-40 ft lbs into em, I'm just guessing, I didn't use a torque wrench but I had wound up with quite a bit of effort into them. That was the only way I got it to snug down nice...if I at any time got the top bolts tighter than the bottom, the bottom would pull away...
My heads were decked too, so that didn't help anything
There is no way you were able to get the little 6 mm bolts that hold the bridge torqued down to 25-30 without stripping a few of them and for sure nowhere near 40. Even if the aluminum didn't strip, those bolts would break before you got them that tight.
I have the wherli fab one. I just used a 1/4 inch Ratchet with a swivel. Not the greatest way but seems to be holding 55lbs fine.
Ybridge
Just curious if anyone has gotten a welded y bridge back in the valley without loosening the turbo up? I dont see how its gonna fit in there with the cheetah in place? This would be on a stock frame charger. I have done this on an s400 but there is more room with them. I am worried the coolant lines and fuel lines are gonna be a problem. I could probably loosen the turbo all up and get it in if I have too.
Just curious if anyone has gotten a welded y bridge back in the valley without loosening the turbo up? I dont see how its gonna fit in there with the cheetah in place? This would be on a stock frame charger. I have done this on an s400 but there is more room with them. I am worried the coolant lines and fuel lines are gonna be a problem. I could probably loosen the turbo all up and get it in if I have too.
My new LBZ- LMM setup does not require a core now either. I have also lowered the price thanks to having them cast to our specs to start with now.
Thanks Rick. I wished I would have went this way from the beginning. Time constraints always cost a guy more. I wound up getting my bridge welded and purchasing a welded one in fear of not being ready for big sky truckfest. In the end I will be ordering this stuff from you. Thanks!
Profab
You may have to clock the alternator for clearance. Meaning what? The altenator is fixed with 2 bolts. My DHD tube barely clears the altenator are you saying yours does or it requires fabrication to get it to clear the altenator?
You may have to clock the alternator for clearance. Meaning what? The altenator is fixed with 2 bolts. My DHD tube barely clears the altenator are you saying yours does or it requires fabrication to get it to clear the altenator?
I have the dhd cast y bridge. Very happy with it and you can get it in and out with the stock frame turbo in place (very tight on the one bolt)