LBZ: Y bridge O-Ring
- Thread starter JD4440
- Start date
Is that one of paul's EGR deletes? If so I had to make some ajustments (Bends) and hone out the bolt hole a bit to get my brace to work correctly..
You need to get everything lose and push it in and tighten it all up. Make sure all the braces are tight.
I put in another brace from the AC compressor bolts to the top stuf on the Y-bridge. helped up a lot, but my bridegw still wanted to come out under 45psi.
The best advice I could give u is to throw the stock one away and buy a aftermarket one like PPE or Tony B and there is some more out there that I am forgetting it will save you alot of trouble in the long run
I came up with a simple support strap from plumbers tape and posted it up on central. Check it out if you get the chance. 
Thanks guys. It looks like it's been out like that a while. I'll have to fix it when I put it back together. Will the oring be ok ? Maybe it'll get replaced by something else when a larger charger/chargers make their way onto it.
I came up with a simple support strap from plumbers tape and posted it up on central. Check it out if you get the chance.
Definitely try that . Thanks Rick :thumb:
mine came out when i did my egr delete kit on my lly, and man it was not fun. i spent a whole day taking the thermostat out just so i could get a hand on it and put in back in
That is what screwed us up in Las Vegas in 2007? in the DHRA ProStreet series. We lost most our boost, but still ran low 11's on fuel back when that was fast.
There is about 250lb of force trying to push the neck out of the Y-bridge casting. You really need a 1 piece Y-bridge. I run the PPE piece.
There is about 250lb of force trying to push the neck out of the Y-bridge casting. You really need a 1 piece Y-bridge. I run the PPE piece.
That is what screwed us up in Las Vegas in 2007? in the DHRA ProStreet series. We lost most our boost, but still ran low 11's on fuel back when that was fast.
There is about 250lb of force trying to push the neck out of the Y-bridge casting. You really need a 1 piece Y-bridge. I run the PPE piece.
Casper runs again?
Just kidding Pat
Casper runs right now...
But 1st gear is good to 50mph right now. Freeway driving is done in 3rd gear and it's a 6-sp. When I hit 197mph, I still had another gear available, but the engine quit.
Casper is at Mike L's waiting for me to bring down the factory axle so we can make it streetable again.
But 1st gear is good to 50mph right now. Freeway driving is done in 3rd gear and it's a 6-sp.
When I hit 197mph, I still had another gear available, but the engine quit.Casper is at Mike L's waiting for me to bring down the factory axle so we can make it streetable again.
The stock piece can hold with thr right bracing
That is what screwed us up in Las Vegas in 2007? in the DHRA ProStreet series. We lost most our boost, but still ran low 11's on fuel back when that was fast.
There is about 250lb of force trying to push the neck out of the Y-bridge casting. You really need a 1 piece Y-bridge. I run the PPE piece.
a 1 piece is def a good option , just expensive to buy a new bridge and IC tube , we have had good luck with the current bracing we are using in our twin kits , I tried a lot of different designs and was really shocked on what failed that I though for sure would hold .
To whoever replaces these orings, be prepared for a shock. GM is extremely proud of those 2 orings. Last set we bought from GM was $80 for 2 orings. Victor makes replacements that are alot cheaper.
