Well I'm open for any idea's as to why my truck keeps eating the surpintine belt!!! The tensioner is new all the pullys are straight, I am running 50lbs boost and my max rpm is 4000. Help, ideas, sugestions... please!!! am I missing somthing?
why is my truck eating belts???
- Thread starter ocwelder
- Start date
Idler pulleys. Mine used to do the same shit. Changed the idler pulley and voila! Also check the tensioner.
ok. I'll check the idler pully. the tensioner is brandy new. Frustrating. On full throttle the lights dim as well, always did that even with the new alt.
yep! its the right size, researched the hell out of that too. I want to try a "Green Belt" from PPE but also don't want to ruin it.
Your truck is hungry? Seriously though, what kind of tensioner did you put on it? If it wasn't a factory GM, that may be part of your problem. I have heard Dayco makes a really good quality heavy duty tensioner too.
super diesel
<<<< Under Pressure
Alignment with something is funky. With the belt removed did you turn each pulley (besides the crank) and check for any wiggle in them?
If you put a non OEM tensioner on it I can almost guarantee that's your problem. I had a real bad problem with my truck shredding belts. Put a tensioner from napa on it and the problem continued. Then I went to GM and dropped 115 bucks on a OEM tensioner and that solved the problem.
Checked all the pullys more than once, it is an aftermerket tensioner. I guess I will drop the coin for the gm one and while I'm at it replace the idler pully as well. I know the allignment is good.
One of my co-workers was having similar issues, we put on a Gm tensioner (used) and added a idler on the lower left side and he hasn't had a belt die since.
there are some things that OEM is a must. Chinese can't duplicate everything and make it reliable! Lol
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I run the Dayco on both of my trucks, I haven't thrown a belt since I swapped
I was throwing belts with a brand new Gm tensioner
seemed like the majority of the time the belt jumped was downshifting and RPMs jumping
I was throwing belts with a brand new Gm tensioner
seemed like the majority of the time the belt jumped was downshifting and RPMs jumping
has nothing to do with aftermarket tensioners. there are 2 different "pulleys" on the tensioners. one has just ribs(usually not the one you want), the other have like a collar on each end of the pulley that the belt fits inbetween. i believe the rib spacing is different between the 2. make sure the pulley on the tentioner looks just like the one on the old one. there are 2 different ones!!
Are you getting your belts from gm or a parts store? Oriellys belts are a hair bigger than gms for an lb7. They will work fine on a stock truck, but not on a modded truck. 4 or 5 years ago i went through 3 or 4 belts before i put one from gm on and didnt have anymore problem.s
this is the best pic of what i am talking about. shouldnt matter where it comes from, just that the pulley looks like this.
http://www.merchant-automotive.com/2002-2005serpentinebelttensioner.aspx
http://www.merchant-automotive.com/2002-2005serpentinebelttensioner.aspx
Thanks guy's I appriciate it. I'm gonna have to lookinto the tensioner and idler. The truck is modded, i was thinking of going with a green belt from ppe, but it shouldn't make a differance if everything is correct.
My co- worker had gone through a couple napa tensioners until we stuck the GM one I had on it. The napa one we replaced was about three months old and had already developed some slop in it the GM one had 90k on it, I'll let you guys come to your own conclusions about quality.
Right after we did that we also added a idler on the lower right corner of the block between the crank and the tensioner, he hadn't had any issues but we could see the belt flutter if we revved and lifted.
Right after we did that we also added a idler on the lower right corner of the block between the crank and the tensioner, he hadn't had any issues but we could see the belt flutter if we revved and lifted.