Why am I going SLOWER?!?!?!?!

DetailsUnlimited

DetailsUnlimited

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TheBac said:
IMO, you've just overpowered your old setup. Done that myself. Ive found that everything on these trucks has to work together to get good times. Very rarely does someone just "throw something together" and get low times.

What shocks are you using, both front and back? What other traction aids are you using?

How do you launch your truck? What RPM? Boost?

All that plays a part, and you still have about track prep to think about.
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I ran my fastest times with just S&B, ad150 and built trans. Stock rims with 265/75/16 bfg's. Now I've added cal tracs, banks tube. Rdl ups and cast manifold, banks super scoop, rdl egr delete and race valve. I thought at least with the same tuning it would net me from a 10.3 to maybe a 10.1 in the 1000ft and below a 8.0002 in the 8th.
Lauching truck at 21 to 2300 rpms. Caltracs, bilstein(zinc) shocks, lowered rear 3 inches a bucked like a mule so raised an inch and gained a 10th back to a 1.71! Will put the factory shackles back on and see what happens. Did I miss anything?
 
JoshH

JoshH

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I think Trent found out that the Bilstein shocks aren't the best for drag racing. You still using the stock wheels and 265s? I have had really good luck with that combo. Have you logged your truck to see if you are holding rail pressure and all that good stuff? What is your best ET in the 1/8 so far?
 
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Dan@PPE

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Have you tired our tune with a stock trans tune with your new setup?? what about a quick swap back to the s&b? Have you cleaned the MAF lately?
 
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TheBac

TheBac

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DetailsUnlimited said:
I ran my fastest times with just S&B, ad150 and built trans. Stock rims with 265/75/16 bfg's. Now I've added cal tracs, banks tube. Rdl ups and cast manifold, banks super scoop, rdl egr delete and race valve. I thought at least with the same tuning it would net me from a 10.3 to maybe a 10.1 in the 1000ft and below a 8.0002 in the 8th.
Lauching truck at 21 to 2300 rpms. Caltracs, bilstein(zinc) shocks, lowered rear 3 inches a bucked like a mule so raised an inch and gained a 10th back to a 1.71! Will put the factory shackles back on and see what happens. Did I miss anything?
Click to expand...

Did you try a lower launch rpm, say around 2000? Sometimes you have to work within what your track prep will allow, not just stubbornly keep at the same thing.
Bilsteins also arent the best for racing. The front end will rise (jump) very quickly under accelleration. You want to slow the rise down. Do you have video of a run?
Lowering the rear also changes suspension geometry some. Trent did a whole thread on that last year. Are the springs untouched, just the shackles changed?

Less pulse should help your rail pressure.
 
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DetailsUnlimited

DetailsUnlimited

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x MadMAX DIESEL said:
The first one. Less pulse will get you less power, but lower RP will give you less atomization.

Gotta find the sweet spot
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I've got 3 new variances of my tune made up to try at the track. Will try to get back to the track so. Have to pay the bills b4 I can play!!

Dan@PPE said:
Have you tired our tune with a stock trans tune with your new setup?? what about a quick swap back to the s&b? Have you cleaned the MAF lately?
Click to expand...

S&B still in just added the Banks scoop. Now thats an idea I haven't done cleaning the MAF. With what.... rubbing achohal?? or just wipe it down.

TheBac said:
Did you try a lower launch rpm, say around 2000? Sometimes you have to work within what your track prep will allow, not just stubbornly keep at the same thing.
Bilsteins also arent the best for racing. The front end will rise (jump) very quickly under accelleration. You want to slow the rise down. Do you have video of a run?
Lowering the rear also changes suspension geometry some. Trent did a whole thread on that last year. Are the springs untouched, just the shackles changed?

Less pulse should help your rail pressure.
Click to expand...

At my local track they prep the track really well. My lowest 60's are from there but a 1000ft track. THe track in Mo. is always slippery. I am hard headed but whos not!LOL:rolleyes: You get in a grove... Bilsteins are what I have and I know the QA1's are great but to much $$$$!! Any other way to hold the front down? Have have some video in the beginning of this thread. the first is of my old set up and the 2nd is lowered 2inchs in the rear. I am going to take out the lowering shackles an install tha factory again and a few things MMLMM(THX) said.



And to not let go on a deaf ear I really appeciate ALL the help/suggestions you guys have offered!
 
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Dan@PPE

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"S&B still in just added the Banks scoop. Now thats an idea I haven't done cleaning the MAF. With what.... rubbing achohal?? or just wipe it down."

Use Mass Air flow cleaner or eletrical contact cleaner, spray it down and let it dry and reinstall. Have you tried out tune latley?
 
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DetailsUnlimited

DetailsUnlimited

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Dan@PPE said:
"S&B still in just added the Banks scoop. Now thats an idea I haven't done cleaning the MAF. With what.... rubbing achohal?? or just wipe it down."

Use Mass Air flow cleaner or eletrical contact cleaner, spray it down and let it dry and reinstall. Have you tried out tune latley?
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Nope, Haven't had time. Can't run the 1/4 on the steet with my work trailor!!! Well I guess I could....:rofl:
Off to NAPA!!
 
Drholliday

Drholliday

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My truck is doing the same thing... everything I do makes it slower. I'm just out of fuel now though. Used to be that on a 3080 pw tune I'd hold 25,000 psi rail all the way down the track. Now I'm cutting better 60ft's and trapping faster 111 mph vs 105, but my rail is dropping into the 17,000-18,000 range. Time for me to get a second CP3 :(

I just wish everything was cheaper.
 
paint94979

paint94979

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Sep 18, 2006
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Drholliday said:
My truck is doing the same thing... everything I do makes it slower. I'm just out of fuel now though. Used to be that on a 3080 pw tune I'd hold 25,000 psi rail all the way down the track. Now I'm cutting better 60ft's and trapping faster 111 mph vs 105, but my rail is dropping into the 17,000-18,000 range. Time for me to get a second CP3 :(

I just wish everything was cheaper.
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It is really expensive past this point I have no intention of building my engine anymore... to take a 60k truck and put a roll bar in it isn't a fun thought anymore
 
ChevyDieselLLY

ChevyDieselLLY

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I almost feel like my money will be going to waste with my motor. I'm not going to drag race and win money and there aren't any pulls close enough to me to make it worth my wild.
 
ChevyDieselLLY

ChevyDieselLLY

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Carrillo rods 100 over injectors WD lv 3 cp3. Not sure about pistons yet depends if I have to bore the block. Might do some head work and maybe a cam. But I'm not sure. Waiting on some phone calls at the moment.
 
Akdiesel

Akdiesel

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I agree 100%. My issue too is I know I will never want to put a roll bar in my truck. I work a full time job (AD military) so going off to race after race isn't an option. The $$ spent building my motor, dual c's, injectors, so on and so forth just can't be justified to me. I LOVE my truck and I LOVE going fast but I'd also love to someday own a home and what not. Had I found a cheapo wreck RCLB or something and started there then yes I could see it cause that would be a fun truck. Shoot for what I can build my motor for I could buy and frame off resto a 67-72 Chevy truck with a BBC that would be a hell raising street truck but at the same time I love diesels...kind of stuck between a rock and a hard place
 
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