If you talk to ARP they recommend 625 over 800hp. I ran the 425 for years with about 80psi of boost making 1000rwhp and had no problems. I even reused them twice. The motor I'm running now has the 625 just to be on the safe side. LOL
when are ARP 625 studs "necessary"?
- Thread starter mike diesel
- Start date
Well the 20 mike drive to work yielded nothing abnormal. Hit maybe 15 psi boost at one point merging onto the freeway. No abnormal pressure or anything. Coolant level was at the "normal" spot in the reservoir. I'll give it some hell on the way home tonight and see what happens.
Same tank, with another burp tank off the vent of the tank just incase. We have used standard ARP's on the Nova (120lbs+) with 4-5 torques on them now. The block is fire ringed so I'm sure that helps somewhat. Only coolant I've found in the cylinders was from a pin hole in the weld on our IC. One of these days I'll convert over to 14mm and be done with it. I don't run much water at all though, block is filled and radiator is only 6"x19". I keep the Canton tank with about 1" water in the bottom. I'd say there is about 1-1.5gal total in the system.
Sure your not still having issues with the cap not sealing?
Last edited:
I always re-torque head studs on my race truck after running it hard for the first time (1 event usually). Even running 625's and now 14mm studs, it's amazing how much torque they take. They then are good for the season.
Things settle, re-torqueing is a royal pain but I feel it is needed when running the type of boost and cylinder psi needed for over 1000HP.
I don't have an answer on what 425's will take, sorry. I do know that they can benefit from a re-torqueing also though.
Things settle, re-torqueing is a royal pain but I feel it is needed when running the type of boost and cylinder psi needed for over 1000HP.
I don't have an answer on what 425's will take, sorry. I do know that they can benefit from a re-torqueing also though.
When I stud my motors I torque and let them sit over night then retorque. Wish I could have with my girdle also.
I am running the same canton overflow tank you are, just stock engine with a 475/stocker and do notice the occasional dribble, or splash of coolant from it. I keep mine around the halfway full area, and Im not sure how much the coolant levels raises when warm, but the tank is small. Might just be a side effect of running a small capacity tank?
Well the fact that it's never done this before other than that dribble...makes me think it's not the tank that is the issue.
I gave it a good whoopin on my way home from work. 80 psi boost a few times, checked coolant and none had blown out. Although it does feel like there is a hair more pressure in the system than what is normal.
Been out beating the truck up for the last 3 days. Hasn't spit a drop of coolant. Lucky me:woott:
Why? I've done this and seen zero difference they are still at the same tq the temp swing is so infinitesimal
I've always had a couple that moved a **** hair when I check over them. Not sure if its the stud getting seated or what. Is it a must? No. But why not. Ibthink small things like that matter at a certain point.