LMM: Wheel/Tire combo?

[moneypitt]

I am looking to change to a better tire for the race season, I am trying to keep the size close so I don't have to retune the truck. Anyone have any input on this combo?

MB 352 20X8-165.10

http://wheelsbymbmotoring.com/product.php?wheel=352


Nitto 420s 275/55 R20

http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/tires/nitto/size/bySize.do?cs=275&ar=55&rd=20&x=25&y=17

 

[skintback]

I think that would be a good street/strip setup

 

[DieselmafiaLLY]

Buy mine!

 

[othrgrl]

My vote goes to racing on the lightest rim and tire combo you can and if the budget allows doing it on tires that are for racing. If I wasn't running 30x14 cheaters on 16x10s that weight 12 lbs I would be running PYOs with some 28x11.50 MT cheaters or just some cheap soft street tires. Driven rotating weight affects you like 8 times that much static weight.

Nitto 420s are my street tire of choice, doubt I will run anything else on my truck on the street, but they are not ideal at the strip and with them only having decent sizes for us in 20s you are forced to run a heavy rim and a short sidewall that doesn't have enough give to let the tire grip the track for hard launches.

 

[Lb7_Katie]

Buy mine!

How heavy are your wheels mike.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[moneypitt]

My vote goes to racing on the lightest rim and tire combo you can and if the budget allows doing it on tires that are for racing. If I wasn't running 30x14 cheaters on 16x10s that weight 12 lbs I would be running PYOs with some 28x11.50 MT cheaters or just some cheap soft street tires. Driven rotating weight affects you like 8 times that much static weight.

Nitto 420s are my street tire of choice, doubt I will run anything else on my truck on the street, but they are not ideal at the strip and with them only having decent sizes for us in 20s you are forced to run a heavy rim and a short sidewall that doesn't have enough give to let the tire grip the track for hard launches.

The problem is the truck is a DD and I live in the rain capitol of the US so I need a tire that will handle standing water. I am not going to change tires at the track(running two trucks this year and don't have time) so I am looking for the best compromise. Last year the wife took out a $1200.00 set of tires in like three months, and then when it rained driving the truck was real fun

 

[othrgrl]

The problem is the truck is a DD and I live in the rain capitol of the US so I need a tire that will handle standing water. I am not going to change tires at the track(running two trucks this year and don't have time) so I am looking for the best compromise. Last year the wife took out a $1200.00 set of tires in like three months, and then when it rained driving the truck was real fun

Sounds like you need to find a guy, kid, whatever that enjoys watching you race. You pay his way into the track and have him change your tires. Except saying you don't have time to change tires, I see nothing that doesn't line up with what I recommended. It's like you said all in one sentence that you are getting serious about racing but don't want to go fast...

You run a tire that works well for you on the street on rims that you like the look of. At the track you bring an aluminum racing jack and cordless impact gun and take 10 minutes to swap to rims and tires that do far better than your street tires on heavy rims ever could. Every track I've been to opens the gates before the lanes so I don't know how you can't have time to change them. Again I'm not saying you need to run a $2400 set of cheater slicks on custom rims; PYOs with some relatively soft street or AT tires have done me very well in the past, cutting consistent 1.6s and running much faster times and traps than I ever could on my 20s. Additionally you don't tear up your DD tires. It's like not wanting to take 30 seconds to pull the tail gate or 3 minutes to pull the passenger and rear seat then complaining that a guy that does beat you because he "stripped his truck". That's not cheating, it's prep for racing. It's cool to say "I ran 12.9s exactly how I drive it every day" (except that you were on a prepped race track with a tree and trap lights); but I'd rather say "I ran 12.5s."

 

[moneypitt]

Sounds like you need to find a guy, kid, whatever that enjoys watching you race. You pay his way into the track and have him change your tires. Except saying you don't have time to change tires, I see nothing that doesn't line up with what I recommended. It's like you said all in one sentence that you are getting serious about racing but don't want to go fast...

You run a tire that works well for you on the street on rims that you like the look of. At the track you bring an aluminum racing jack and cordless impact gun and take 10 minutes to swap to rims and tires that do far better than your street tires on heavy rims ever could. Every track I've been to opens the gates before the lanes so I don't know how you can't have time to change them. Again I'm not saying you need to run a $2400 set of cheater slicks on custom rims; PYOs with some relatively soft street or AT tires have done me very well in the past, cutting consistent 1.6s and running much faster times and traps than I ever could on my 20s. Additionally you don't tear up your DD tires. It's like not wanting to take 30 seconds to pull the tail gate or 3 minutes to pull the passenger and rear seat then complaining that a guy that does beat you because he "stripped his truck". That's not cheating, it's prep for racing. It's cool to say "I ran 12.9s exactly how I drive it every day" (except that you were on a prepped race track with a tree and trap lights); but I'd rather say "I ran 12.5s."

I hear where you are coming from but that is not the only reason, this is for my wife's truck. I am trying to get it set up so when I don't have time to go to the track she can go race by herself and there is no way she can change the tires.