LB7: What should my 3rd pillar gauge be?

[Harbin_22]

Not pointless unless you don't know how to tune and set rail pressure to max out. At WOT its worth it to me...meh

Your right, fuel pressure never changes for any reason even during WOT... I'm not really sure why real tuners even log trucks with efi, all they need is a rail pressure gauge and be sure they max out the rail tables :roflmao:

 

[DirtyMax32]

You could do that, or -- to tie in another question you were asking -- you could remove that large fitting just to the right of that spot (its the intake heater) and either do as Dustin said in the other thread (cut the coils off and drill and tap the center of the heater nut) or buy something like this: http://www.xtremediesel.com/cfmcfmplusairintakeheaterdeleteplug.aspx
That link has a pic of what the intake heater looks like, too. Remember to disconnect the other end of the intake heater wire at the glow plug module. It will throw a code, but EFILive can eliminate that.

The link you sent me was for a 7.3
Is this the right one I'll need
http://www.xtremediesel.com/xdplb7airintakeheaterdeleteplug.aspx

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[Jonesin33]

http://aeroforcetech.com/products_interceptor.html

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[TheBac]

This will kill 2 birds with one stone. I want to do this but that link you sent me. What am I actually buying. Just that threaded plug with a small hole in the middle?
Does that go in the spot where the orange electrical unit is or where that small nut holding it on? And where are those coils at? Are they attached to that orange electrical unit with the plug plugged into it?


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Look farther to the right at the large "nut" with the wire bolted to it. The "coils" are attached to that large nut and extend into the intake tract. Yes, the item I linked is ust the threaded plug with the small hole to replace the IAH.

The orange electrical unit is your boost sensor. Dont mess with that. They are fragile and rather expensive to replace.

 

[DirtyMax32]

Look farther to the right at the large "nut" with the wire bolted to it. The "coils" are attached to that large nut and extend into the intake tract. Yes, the item I linked is ust the threaded plug with the small hole to replace the IAH.

The orange electrical unit is your boost sensor. Dont mess with that. They are fragile and rather expensive to replace.

Thanks for clearing that up. That helps a lot. Is this what I need? The one you sent me was for a 7.3.
http://www.xtremediesel.com/xdplb7airintakeheaterdeleteplug.aspx

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[TheBac]

7.3 and LB7 intake heaters are the same thing. But it looks like you do save a buck on that anodized piece.

 

[DirtyMax32]

7.3 and LB7 intake heaters are the same thing. But it looks like you do save a buck on that anodized piece.

Oh I didn't know that. I just saw 7.3 and assumed it didn't fit. When I put that delete plug in with my boost probe. How do I unplug it? Do I just follow the wires back to their origin?

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[TheBac]

The IAH wire originates at the glow plug module, you just remove it from its stud. Not too difficult.
Like I said, you will probably get a code from removing the IAH. EFILive can disable that code.

 

[DirtyMax32]

Ok thanks. I have 2 question left and my mind will rest easy for this gauge install.

1. My lml manifold is arriving in a couple days. Can I just drill and port it for the egt probe?
Or does it have to be in the passenger side manifold?

2. I'm getting a vacuum gauge with my triple pillar because it's free and it'll take up the 3rd spot until I get my lift pump so I can buy my fuel pressure gauge. It comes with a T-fitting. Is there a line on the lb7's that I can put the T-fitting for the vacuum gauge on?

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[TheBac]

1) Yes, you can, same as passenger side.

2) Not that I know of.

 

[DirtyMax32]

The lml manifold doesn't have any flat spots to drill and tap. Do I just drill the hole right before the manifold dumps into the up-pipe like everyone does on the passenger side?
Is the manifold on the passenger side flat or round by the up pipe? If it's round then I
Won't have any problem drilling and tapping the lml manifold.

And what should I get as a third gauge since I can't get a fuel pressure gauge without a lift pump.
I'm ordering these gauges tomorrow so that's why I'm freaking out trying to find out which 3rd gauge to get. The fuel rail pressure gauge is an extra $60. And I don't want to spend that if I'm going to replace it in a couple months.



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[DirtyMax32]

It's the spot where the hole is drilled round or flat?

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[Antiher03]

Why don't you buy the fuel pressure gauge run the wires to an easy to get to spot in the cab and coil them up until you get a lift pump