Allison 6sp: What is a basic rebuild

[stibuilder]

I have a Allison from my Kodiak with 227k on it. Wondering what the basic mods should be done to it during the rebuild. I don't know if these transmissions have the same issues the 1000's do in the pickups or not.

Also what would be a reasonable price range for the work?

 

[PureHybrid]

They are exactly the same trans, aside from gear ratio differences. A rebuild depends on what you want done, stock or performance?

 

[Josh154]

I believe it’s for his tow rig that pulls a big enclosed trailer and I think he plans on 475/stock. If I was op and was tearing into it I would just have it built

 

[Chad006]

One phone call to a reputable builder will be worth your while.

 

[stibuilder]

I wanted to see what you guys thought would be the basic minimums to do for a trans with those types of miles. Our trailer is really light and our combined weight is only 22k. Id like to go into the "build" conversation with a little more info than what they just tell me if possible.

I mostly use the truck for hauling longer distances and we spend most of time at freeway speeds on I90 or I5 just pulling grades and such, no drag racing or such.

 

[IOWA LLY]

Pulling heavy is just as hard on a transmission as racing and pulling. 22K isn't light at all when you consider your approaching the maximum gvw this transmission was designed for, and your planning on doubling the horsepower in front of it.

As far as educating yourself I totally understand that. However, unfortunately these days you have 2 groups of people on these forums.

1st, the idiots that don't have a clue, that maybe build one or 2 transmissions using kits and they actually moved when they were done so now they consider themselves experts. They will tell you all sorts of ridiculous things.

2nd, you have the people that actually know. And most of those guys actually had to work hard, and spend their own money learning what works and what doesn't. Most of them won't just give out info for free.

You will find a 3rd group I guess also. Those that spent money on a quality kit. They can tell you what was in their kit. And they will sound knowledgeable while doing so. However, good luck getting them to provide any help or tech support when something doesn't work right after.


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[IOWA LLY]

Now, to actually answer your question. In my opinion based on what you are doing there are a few things that you can make sure your builder is doing to feel good about your new transmission.

First off do not skimp on the torque converter. Make sure it's a high quality triple disc converter. Just because your not racing doesn't mean you can get by with a cheap converter. I would recommend a Goerend or a Suncoast.

If it was my truck I would make sure the builder doesn't go crazy with line pressure. Make sure he understands your horsepower goals and what you use it for. Very high horsepower and extreme abuse require a healthy amount of pressure to survive. Heavy towing at moderate power levels can get by with less if built properly and will run cooler as well as prolong seal ring life.

Good quality clutches are a must for obvious reasons. But different builders use and prefer different clutches. Your going to have to trust your builder to choose correctly for you here. And setup is just as important as clutch and steel material so make sure your builder knows what he is doing.

Make sure they flush or replace the cooler. If they don't have a hot flush machine a new cooler is a good idea.

Those are just some basic guidelines I would suggest you look into and ask your builder. If they don't act like they know what your talking about or stammer around trying to answer you then I would suggest you look elsewhere.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Chevy1925]

I wanted to see what you guys thought would be the basic minimums to do for a trans with those types of miles. Our trailer is really light and our combined weight is only 22k. Id like to go into the "build" conversation with a little more info than what they just tell me if possible.

I mostly use the truck for hauling longer distances and we spend most of time at freeway speeds on I90 or I5 just pulling grades and such, no drag racing or such.

If you were staying at stock hp, you could get away with small mods. If you are upping the power at all and gross that weight, the trans is going to need a good build.

I’m 25k gross and rarely use wot when towing but I use about 450-500hp worth of this tune (600rwhp) and before mike came out with stuff that could hold up to that, I killed clutches and a converter from this. Now granted I had some other underlying issues that would not have posed an issue in an I loaded truck but put a load on and it becomes amplified.

I would highly suggest doing a full build. Your truck is detuned from a 2500-3500 on purpose and it’s due to your trucks weight unloaded and what it can carry loaded. I’ve tuned a couple kodiacks (1 truck and one motor home), both literally just upped the limiters in the stock tune to 80% of what a stock Lbz makes (they are about 50-55% of a stock Lbz tune). Both lost converters in under 5k and then the moho lost a trans 10k later. The truck I’ve lost track of but Johnny (gasuout) who use to be on here was the guy to abuse these kodiaks. He still does though he don’t get on here much at all.

 

[Mike L.]

Do NOT use a regular pick up converter. Yours needs to be custom built. You will need a full Allison overhaul kit with bushings and bearing with sealing rings and pistons.

 

[SoCalMike]

Pulling heavy is just as hard on a transmission as racing and pulling. 22K isn't light at all when you consider your approaching the maximum gvw this transmission was designed for, and your planning on doubling the horsepower in front of it.

As far as educating yourself I totally understand that. However, unfortunately these days you have 2 groups of people on these forums.

1st, the idiots that don't have a clue, that maybe build one or 2 transmissions using kits and they actually moved when they were done so now they consider themselves experts. They will tell you all sorts of ridiculous things.

2nd, you have the people that actually know. And most of those guys actually had to work hard, and spend their own money learning what works and what doesn't. Most of them won't just give out info for free.

You will find a 3rd group I guess also. Those that spent money on a quality kit. They can tell you what was in their kit. And they will sound knowledgeable while doing so. However, good luck getting them to provide any help or tech support when something doesn't work right after.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Now, to actually answer your question. In my opinion based on what you are doing there are a few things that you can make sure your builder is doing to feel good about your new transmission.

First off do not skimp on the torque converter. Make sure it's a high quality triple disc converter. Just because your not racing doesn't mean you can get by with a cheap converter. I would recommend a Goerend or a Suncoast.

If it was my truck I would make sure the builder doesn't go crazy with line pressure. Make sure he understands your horsepower goals and what you use it for. Very high horsepower and extreme abuse require a healthy amount of pressure to survive. Heavy towing at moderate power levels can get by with less if built properly and will run cooler as well as prolong seal ring life.

Good quality clutches are a must for obvious reasons. But different builders use and prefer different clutches. Your going to have to trust your builder to choose correctly for you here. And setup is just as important as clutch and steel material so make sure your builder knows what he is doing.

Make sure they flush or replace the cooler. If they don't have a hot flush machine a new cooler is a good idea.

Those are just some basic guidelines I would suggest you look into and ask your builder. If they don't act like they know what your talking about or stammer around trying to answer you then I would suggest you look elsewhere.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

If you were staying at stock hp, you could get away with small mods. If you are upping the power at all and gross that weight, the trans is going to need a good build.

I’m 25k gross and rarely use wot when towing but I use about 450-500hp worth of this tune (600rwhp) and before mike came out with stuff that could hold up to that, I killed clutches and a converter from this. Now granted I had some other underlying issues that would not have posed an issue in an I loaded truck but put a load on and it becomes amplified.

I would highly suggest doing a full build. Your truck is detuned from a 2500-3500 on purpose and it’s due to your trucks weight unloaded and what it can carry loaded. I’ve tuned a couple kodiacks (1 truck and one motor home), both literally just upped the limiters in the stock tune to 80% of what a stock Lbz makes (they are about 50-55% of a stock Lbz tune). Both lost converters in under 5k and then the moho lost a trans 10k later. The truck I’ve lost track of but Johnny (gasuout) who use to be on here was the guy to abuse these kodiaks. He still does though he don’t get on here much at all.

Do NOT use a regular pick up converter. Yours needs to be custom built. You will need a full Allison overhaul kit with bushings and bearing with sealing rings and pistons.

To the op. These are the guys you want to listen to. As for trans builders I would highly recommend calling Mike L and see what he recommends doing. He might be able to recommend a shop close to you or ship you a trans.

 

[stibuilder]

So with all the talk about the HP and weight truck makes, what does a LBZ with 30% over injectors,Y bridge,fass pump, down pipe, EFI Live (PPEI) make? 450hp?

 

[Yngdmax92]

How much do you want it to make?

 

[IOWA LLY]

So with all the talk about the HP and weight truck makes, what does a LBZ with 30% over injectors,Y bridge,fass pump, down pipe, EFI Live (PPEI) make? 450hp?

That combo could make over 500RWHP easily.

But in my opinion would be a much happier and more pleasant truck to tow heavy with at around 400RWHP. Add twin turbos and it could easily tow happy at 500RWHP.

I don't like having to watch the EGT gauge all the time. By backing it down EGTs won't be as much of an issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[DMAXchris]

So with all the talk about the HP and weight truck makes, what does a LBZ with 30% over injectors,Y bridge,fass pump, down pipe, EFI Live (PPEI) make? 450hp?

Add another 100rwhp. A stock LBZ max effort will be roughly 510-530rwhp.

 

[malibu795]

having 400-450 at the tires and the engine running in its sweet spot would make grossing upwards of 36,000lbs a lot more pleasant..
rpm sweat spot changes once you go past 26k anything under 1900rpm just lugs the crap out of the engine, temps just go through the roof..

also having a TC with low enough stall/coupling that you don't blow throw it on normal shifting helps tremendously, there's a 42% ratios drop between 1-2 shift (3.1 to 1.8)

iirc the 07 Kodiaks "should have" same tranny upgrades as the LMM pickups, only thing ive done to mine, low stall non billet TC, JR kit and 280psi pump spring..
definetly recommend billet TC over 400rwhp at a minimum

 

[stibuilder]

Im not quite sure if my tune is "detuned" like the factory Kodiak's are or if its more of a Pickup Tune. Haven't really drove it since we got the tune since its been having the issue on the #8.

As for the transmission we did get the TCM reprogrammed with an 08+ vin that unlocked the 6th gear, it took my cruising RPM down 400 RPM.

Here is the thread that got some of us going on it.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76...-5-speed-6-speed-conversion-instructions.html

I only have one tune so no max effort.

 

[oscyjack]

Iowa hit the nail on the head. Subbed