What Else While Doing HG
- Thread starter POWDR
- Start date
mods are just the initial easy 3" dp, 5"dp back, S&B mouth, driver side manifold,EFI
Trans is getting put of until summer due to the HG.
Trans is getting put of until summer due to the HG.
Hey guys, sorry I dipped out for a bit right after that post...
So the Mishimoto T-stats were only 5*C less than the stock thermostats...
So, IIRC that's 80*C and 85*C vs 85*C and 90*C
I'll have to double check to be absolutely sure...
The difference seemed nominal enough to me, I didn't get them for performance tho...
My understanding is, the whole performance gain theory behind running a lower t-stat only works for a small window of time, no matter what temp the t-stat opens at your engine and coolant should still eventually hit its static operating temp which is dictated more by the volume of fluid in the system, how well it can dissipate/shed heat and ambient temps than by what temp the thermostat opens...
I've got a 160*F thermostat in my SS, it opens sooner and keeps the coolant temps lower for a slightly longer time, but no matter what my engine temps still eventually hit 190-210 depending on what I'm doing...and stabilize there.
I couldn't tell ya why I'm having heater issues in the cab now, all I know is it's friggin cold outside and my heat doesn't want to work unless Im driving under 45mph, pull a hill, or if I keep the block heater plugged in and he coolant is warm already I can pull heat.
But if I'm going 60-65 on the freeway, fogettaboutit, I freeze my AZZ off!
Lol
So the Mishimoto T-stats were only 5*C less than the stock thermostats...
So, IIRC that's 80*C and 85*C vs 85*C and 90*C
I'll have to double check to be absolutely sure...
The difference seemed nominal enough to me, I didn't get them for performance tho...
My understanding is, the whole performance gain theory behind running a lower t-stat only works for a small window of time, no matter what temp the t-stat opens at your engine and coolant should still eventually hit its static operating temp which is dictated more by the volume of fluid in the system, how well it can dissipate/shed heat and ambient temps than by what temp the thermostat opens...
I've got a 160*F thermostat in my SS, it opens sooner and keeps the coolant temps lower for a slightly longer time, but no matter what my engine temps still eventually hit 190-210 depending on what I'm doing...and stabilize there.
I couldn't tell ya why I'm having heater issues in the cab now, all I know is it's friggin cold outside and my heat doesn't want to work unless Im driving under 45mph, pull a hill, or if I keep the block heater plugged in and he coolant is warm already I can pull heat.
But if I'm going 60-65 on the freeway, fogettaboutit, I freeze my AZZ off!
Lol
Cocoal I didn't know you were Canadian? We you Fahrenheit here in the US:hug:
I thought I read stock thermostats were running at 210*f..I know the 180 I have is horrible for winter. I have to plug in inside my garage to have any chance of heat in the morning
I thought I read stock thermostats were running at 210*f..I know the 180 I have is horrible for winter. I have to plug in inside my garage to have any chance of heat in the morning
Ha
Ha
Yeah, I've already been given shit for that the last time
That's just how they're stamped and how mishimoto labels them
:thumb:
Although I'm not opposed to using the metric system
Ha
Yeah, I've already been given shit for that the last time
That's just how they're stamped and how mishimoto labels them
:thumb:
Although I'm not opposed to using the metric system
Nothing beneficial that I can tell
My engine coolant temps sit @ 185* now tho
I think McRat had a thread about them from way back when he was testing on Casper
If you were experiencing overheating issues may not be a bad idea to throw on a fan clutch if you never heard the fan engage. It should lockup at around 210* and start moving A LOT of air. Enough to be easily heard. Also would be wise to take the cooling stack apart and clean everything. You'd be amazed how much crap will get between the radiator and intercooler.
I understand it more in a gasser, the tunes are set up to run more timing when the engine is cooler, and cooler engine makes it less prone to preignition since the fuel/air mixture is compressed together, although I still don't really like them personally. In a diesel or a DI gas motor, where the fuel is injected after the air is already compressed, I think the cooler temp hurts more than it helps. No proof to back that up, just my personal opinion.
Lower temp stats won't help in an overheating situation though, once the truck starts to get hot the stats are wide open regardless of if they are factory setting or lower temp. It's the size of the radiator and the efficiency of the cooling system that determines whether or not the engine overheats. Lower temp stats may delay it marginally if the engine starts at a slightly cooler temp, but it won't ever prevent anything. One theory I've heard is that it may actually hurt more than it helps because the coolant is constantly circulating rather than having a chance to sit in the radiator and cool off. No idea if that's true, but I guess it kind of makes sense in my head. If you want the ultimate low temp thermostat, just remove them altogether :roflmao:
From what I've read, it's the design of the LLY mouthpiece and the air intake that caused the problems, due to a heat feedback loop and a restrictive intake tract. I don't remember all of the details but I thought I remember reading that the guys who switched over to the LBZ style intake and mouthpiece saw the problem go away. The other popular solution is to add a secondary radiator.
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^^^^Thanks Thunder. That actually makes a lot of sense:thumb:
Thanks Andy. I believe an upgraded fuel regulator is in the Arson kit. I think I am going to go ahead and get that kit actually.
Thanks Andy. I believe an upgraded fuel regulator is in the Arson kit. I think I am going to go ahead and get that kit actually.