What Duramax should I buy and what do I have to add?

frankd

New member
Jul 2, 2016
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My wife and I are getting back into camping and now that we're retired we'd probably buy a pretty big unit. In addition to that, we plan to add a 2nd trailer behind the 5th wheel camper that will have our motorcycle in it, so our total weight towed would probably be between 12,000 and 19,000#. We haven't bought the camper yet, so I don't have the exact weight. I've been looking at some diesel trucks, and I'm leaning towards a Duramax, probably a LMM or a LML in an extended cab 2500. I saw that the LML was supposed to be more efficient than the LMM, but the LML also has the DEF fluid, and that caused some problems with going into the limp mode. Then I see where some have added programmers that eliminate the EGR and burning the deposits off of the particluate screen in the exhaust. I live in an area that has no pollution tests so.....

I also read about the Allison slipping and then going into the limp mode. What would I have to add to a truck to make it reliable and efficient? A lot of the LMMs have over 200,000 miles on them. How long will they last without being torn down for head gaskets or other problems. The only rough duty the truck will have is pulling all that weight up grades.

Thanks,

Frank
 

Digmax

Member
Jan 23, 2016
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I would recommend a late model lml 14 or newer and it will be great, even with no mods

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WVRigrat05

Wound for sound
Jan 1, 2011
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French Creek, West Virginia
Can't go wrong with either one esp. When deleted. The LML has more options and runs well. My LMM has been worked pretty hard since 10k miles and has held up but it's only at 78k miles. We'll see how I feel about it at 150k miles.
 

IOWA LLY

Yes, its really me
Feb 23, 2007
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I would recommend a late model lml 14 or newer and it will be great, even with no mods

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This^^^^

But deleted is even better........

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IOWA LLY

Yes, its really me
Feb 23, 2007
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Not necessarily no. But they seem to have refined things and improved them. Like with any model....

Any year LML would be just fine. But the 11s and now 12s seem to have a lot of bad TCMs.

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Digmax

Member
Jan 23, 2016
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Fuel pumps have been updated I believe older ones where a little prone to going out

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NC-smokinlmm

<<<Future tuna killer
May 29, 2011
5,214
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At Da Beach
Bosch updated the metering valve in mid 13 on the cp4. 11's, 12's and 13's have weird def issues, all have bad nox sensors unless they were replaced and they eat tcms for some reason. The mid year change ups in 13 seemed to address these issues and anything after that point appears to be rock solid. I personally think my early 15 is the best mix of proven technology and newer refinements. GM started swapping things up on the 15.5 models, no more Allison tcm for example...
 

pornstar dancin

pornstar dancin
Oct 23, 2012
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almond ny
What's the best way to tell early 14 to late 14 or even early 15? Vin check ? I'm kinda in the market lately as well to upgrade from my lmm
 

Hoser

Active member
Jun 19, 2016
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Farmington, MN
What's the best way to tell early 14 to late 14 or even early 15? Vin check ? I'm kinda in the market lately as well to upgrade from my lmm

There is no early/late '14. There is however an early/late '15. Easiest way to distinguish is the late '15 has the marker lights and reverse lights on the mirrors and new style wheels.
 

NC-smokinlmm

<<<Future tuna killer
May 29, 2011
5,214
364
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At Da Beach
What's the best way to tell early 14 to late 14 or even early 15? Vin check ? I'm kinda in the market lately as well to upgrade from my lmm

All 14's are good, look at build date on 13's and the early 15's are the ones with the allison tcm. As said before tow mirrors are an easy tell but build date is easier, my 15 was built in march of 14...