LLY: WD Modded LBZ Reg tuning
- Thread starter Cougar281
- Start date
i used a ball end Allen wrench to pry the end out, sure if it the best way but i was picking apart lbz regulator that has a broken connector on it
I'm begining to wonder if part of my problem is the regulator is sticking. One of my symptoms is often when taking off from idle, it'll have no power (like low rail pressure), then suddenly, like a switch was flipped, I get power and can go; The worst was last week, it had no power, drained rail pressure to nead 1000#, and threw a 1093. Is there any way to determine if the reg is sticking for sure?
Well, since I can't edit my old post to add info, here's the log of what I mentioned above. If you look at about frame 4600, that's when I started out of my parking spot. The regulator mA keeps dropping and dropping, and so does the rail pressure, until it bottoms out around 1100psi (desired up around 7500psi), stays there for a bit, then it shoots up to just about 25,000psi, drops to 15.5k, up to 23.8, then takes a while to taper off and get close to desired. It does appear as if it was stuck "closed" and then finally sprung open and WAAAY overshot it's mark because at that point, the current being sent to the reg was for a much higher desired flow. But what do I know 
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GMC_2002_Dmax
The Still Master
Well, since I can't edit my old post to add info, here's the log of what I mentioned above. If you look at about frame 4600, that's when I started out of my parking spot. The regulator mA keeps dropping and dropping, and so does the rail pressure, until it bottoms out around 1100psi (desired up around 7500psi), stays there for a bit, then it shoots up to just about 25,000psi, drops to 15.5k, up to 23.8, then takes a while to taper off and get close to desired. It does appear as if it was stuck "closed" and then finally sprung open and WAAAY overshot it's mark because at that point, the current being sent to the reg was for a much higher desired flow. But what do I know
R&R'ing the CP3 regulator is a time consuming job, if I were you I would think about swapping in a stock LBZ pump/regulator and calling it a day.
R&R'ing the CP3 regulator is a time consuming job, if I were you I would think about swapping in a stock LBZ pump/regulator and calling it a day.
I found the biggest PITA was getting the elbow back in... But do you agree that it seems to be sticking based on that log and my description of the surge off idle, or am I off base?
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GMC_2002_Dmax
The Still Master
It looks to me like the regulator may be sticking, the rail psi is tanking and then all of a sudden it shoots way up .....
WICKED DIESELS
you need more fuel
Got the new reg in this week and got to work on it today. Modded the gear pump per this article while I was in there. Getting the bridge off was fun . Once it was all back together and I fired it up (after putting stock tables back in there), I noticed the difference right away. It actually didn't surge at all. After I changed B1010 per Pat's suggestion, the rail pressure holds pretty steady near commanded, but the FRPCOMM mm3 is up around 3000 (should be 0 at idle, right?). Just need to figure that out, but all in all, it's a lot better than it was.
. Once it was all back together and I fired it up (after putting stock tables back in there), I noticed the difference right away. It actually didn't surge at all. After I changed B1010 per Pat's suggestion, the rail pressure holds pretty steady near commanded, but the FRPCOMM mm3 is up around 3000 (should be 0 at idle, right?). Just need to figure that out, but all in all, it's a lot better than it was.
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I've done the bottle test with the race valve when I was chasing low rail pressure problems; after a 5 mile "Petal on the floor as much as possible with the PPE 330 tune loaded", not even a drop in the bottle. I haven't had any rail pressure issues with the 90 tune and the modded reg (I couldn't hold pressure with even the 90 before).
The other reg was definately sticking; the rail pressure would tank and then shoot up, not just smooth high/low transisions. What really did it was when rail pressure was tanked around 1000#, then shot up to 26k#.
No, the only thing left now is to tweak the tune for the modded LBZ reg. Now that I have a reg in there that's working right, I might actually be able to figure out this whole tooning thing
. Maybe.
I've done the bottle test with the race valve when I was chasing low rail pressure problems; after a 5 mile "Petal on the floor as much as possible with the PPE 330 tune loaded", not even a drop in the bottle. I haven't had any rail pressure issues with the 90 tune and the modded reg (I couldn't hold pressure with even the 90 before).
The other reg was definately sticking; the rail pressure would tank and then shoot up, not just smooth high/low transisions. What really did it was when rail pressure was tanked around 1000#, then shot up to 26k#.
No, the only thing left now is to tweak the tune for the modded LBZ reg. Now that I have a reg in there that's working right, I might actually be able to figure out this whole tooning thing
Best of luck to you!