LBZ: Water pump

quinton

Active member
Nov 28, 2011
1,883
0
36
Granbury Tx.
Went through two welded water pumps. This second one the gear cam off at world finals. It tore up my cam gear so had to pull front end off and replace the gear. Got a pinned one in it yesterday and back together. Go pinned. Don't weld. I will NEVER recommend welded again because of the hassle it can be. Also wore into the core plug behind it. I got lucky on that one and didn't wear into it to much. Pic of cam gear.
2053aaffcad79eb687f2d72b1858dd43.jpg
 

c20elephant

C20ELEPHANT
Apr 25, 2013
2,065
0
0
Phoenix, Arizona
Oh shit on the cam gear and welded pump, does anyone use the install tool recommended by SoCal and ATI, if not did you have any concerns while installing.??
 

IOWA LLY

Yes, its really me
Feb 23, 2007
2,275
4
0
Yes. The install tool is required. It's a very tight fit!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
7,092
28
48
Boise Idaho
For main seal removal I like to use a very sharp punch to put a hole in the steel face of the seal, or use a small drill bit. Place 2-4 holes around the seal. Use a slide hammer, one that you can install different screws in the tip something like this cheapo works finehttps://www.walmart.com/ip/9-Piece-5-Pound-Dent-Puller-Set-Auto-Body-Repair-Shop-Tools-Slide-Hammer/158833278?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=2117&adid=22222222227046964534&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=s&wl2=c&wl3=146924447178&wl4=pla-255696690182&wl5=9033835&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113148308&wl11=online&wl12=158833278&wl13=&veh=sem If the seal is really tight you may have to work around the holes in a circular pattern, seal will walk out.
 

c20elephant

C20ELEPHANT
Apr 25, 2013
2,065
0
0
Phoenix, Arizona
Thanks Burn Down, I have a LMM front cover from an engine I parted to practice on in the garage and removing material by relieving pressure on the press fit of the seal via drilling holes would help. I can borrow/rent a driver from Blackmax123 to install the seal as he has one from Merchant Automotive and I may have a slide hammer in my tool box....

Now I have to question whether it is worth it or not. Going to speculate, the vibration I wrote about in the 1800-2000 RPM range might be a precursor inherent to the out of balance V8 engine and crank failure, or not....

I had a member awhile back give me an Empire Diesel Performance Engineering Duramax Crank Shaft Pin Kit when he sold his Duramax, might just as well install a pin seeing how it was free.

With all that said the expense is growing rapidly and I knew that when I purchased the truck and planned to replace the balancer when the pump failed. I'll read some more about the Dayco balancer PB1649DP Josh H posted about awhile back, just found it $403.00 through Amazon so I'll just stick with what's proven ATI/SoCal....



https://www.amazon.com/Dayco-PB1649...qid=1486982317&sr=8-1&keywords=Dayco+PB1649DP
 
Last edited:

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
15,611
1,868
113
Mid Michigan
I have one of those Dayco's sitting on the shelf for whenever I get to build the little truck's engine. Its a nice piece.
 

DMAXchris

It’s only temporary!
Apr 28, 2009
2,273
2
38
44
Natrona Heights PA
The truck has 75,000 miles and has a mild EFI 90HP tune, I'm sure a lot you guys are sensitive to vibration and the Duramax engine has an ever so slight vibration right at about 1800 to 2000 RPM that I have noticed since 2013. I have read a number of post' where an ATI/Socal damper smooths out a stock engine...What about adding pins using EDP's? crank pin installer.?

Concerning the seal, it looks like the seal driver J-44645 is to be used with the front cover off or is there one that can be used while the cover is on the engine.?
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUTHENTIC-K...al-Installer-6-6L-Diesel-2500HD-/361872183185
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Replacing the damper wont stop the LBZ vibration. My motor was balanced with a SoCal and it still does it. I think it's worse now than it was stock.