LB7: Upgraded injector fuel return lines

[MAXX IT OUT]

Currently I am pulling mine valve covers apart to replace a injector on the passenger side, along with the valve cover gasket on the driver side and decided to do a retorque then lash the valves. Most of the injector return bolts are stripping out and I had to use channel lock to get them off. Do I just replace the return lines with new ones or does someone have a better solution that is reuseable? I would like to make it so that I don't have to pull the whole line loose to get one injector out. Anyone have suggestions?

 

[Bdsankey]

Currently I am pulling mine valve covers apart to replace a injector on the passenger side, along with the valve cover gasket on the driver side and decided to do a retorque then lash the valves. Most of the injector return bolts are stripping out and I had to use channel lock to get them off. Do I just replace the return lines with new ones or does someone have a better solution that is reuseable? I would like to make it so that I don't have to pull the whole line loose to get one injector out. Anyone have suggestions?

As far as I know you will not get around the hard return rail on the LB7.

That being said, Merchant Automotive makes a "HD" return line bolt that doesn't strip out like factory. See link below. They are cheaper at other places but gives you the PN and the concept.




https://www.merchant-automotive.com/10491-MA-Heavy-Duty-Injector-Return-Line-Bolts.aspx

 

[MAXX IT OUT]

As far as I know you will not get around the hard return rail on the LB7.

That being said, Merchant Automotive makes a "HD" return line bolt that doesn't strip out like factory. See link below. They are cheaper at other places but gives you the PN and the concept.




https://www.merchant-automotive.com/10491-MA-Heavy-Duty-Injector-Return-Line-Bolts.aspx

I guess I will give those bolts a try, I also order some ARP bolt 12 points bolts for the valve cover. I am getting tired of GMs using crappy grade hardware, I don't think they intended them for anything more than a one time uses.

 

[Bdsankey]

I guess I will give those bolts a try, I also order some ARP bolt 12 points bolts for the valve cover. I am getting tired of GMs using crappy grade hardware, I don't think they intended them for anything more than a one time uses.

Solid plan, I personally always just replace them with standard stainless hardware from my local hardware store to never have this problem again.




From what I can tell the Merchant return line bolts are MUCH improved over factory.

 

[Ne-max]

I guess I will give those bolts a try, I also order some ARP bolt 12 points bolts for the valve cover. I am getting tired of GMs using crappy grade hardware, I don't think they intended them for anything more than a one time uses.

GMs harware is just fine as long as its not over tightened. With the sealant and rubber gasket it is pretty forgiving. The person who did injectors last can really screw ya.

 

[Bdsankey]

GMs harware is just fine as long as its not over tightened. With the sealant and rubber gasket it is pretty forgiving. The person who did injectors last can really screw ya.

I more so fight it in terms of corrosion and getting an allen driver into it. I've learned to soak them when penetrant (lightly) and tap the allen socket into each bolt as to not strip them then they are fine.

 

[zakkb787]

I used the merchant bolts in my lb7. IMO gm return line bolts are s**t. The merchant ones are well with the money to me.

 

[DAVe3283]

As far as I know you will not get around the hard return rail on the LB7.

That being said, Merchant Automotive makes a "HD" return line bolt that doesn't strip out like factory. See link below. They are cheaper at other places but gives you the PN and the concept.

https://www.merchant-automotive.com/10491-MA-Heavy-Duty-Injector-Return-Line-Bolts.aspx

I have started using the Merchant bolts any time I have to touch the injectors, and have never had one strip out. I always strip out at least one stock bolt it seems.

A trick I found that helps is to cut the crush washer before loosening the return bolt. That long tail that goes between them prevents the washer near the bolt head from turning, which seems to increase the torque required to break it free. I just go down the line with angle cutters and snip each crush washer right at the thin part of that connecting strip. They aren't reusable either way, and it really does help IMO.

Solid plan, I personally always just replace them with standard stainless hardware from my local hardware store to never have this problem again.

From what I can tell the Merchant return line bolts are MUCH improved over factory.

I also replace the valve cover hardware with regular stainless. No more problems with the allen rounding out!