Taking my driveshaft off this morning, one of the U-Joint caps came apart. Will it be ok to snap it back together ant put it all back together later, or should I get a new one? If I should replace it (which I'm leaning that way anyway since they're not too expensive), any brand in particular? O'Rilley has a "PRECISION U-JOINT CORPORATION" brand for $18 with a "lifetime warranty" that's available now. Will that one be ok, or should I look for another brand?
U-Joint issue
- Thread starter Cougar281
- Start date
I bought the back one (driveshaft to rear yoke) from GM last week and replaced it. When I removed it from the box, it was stamped Spicer. My original lasted 107K...thats why I bought the GM one again.
Mike L made a good point about greasable joints being hollow and not able to hold up to the abuse.
Mike L made a good point about greasable joints being hollow and not able to hold up to the abuse.
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Were is the best place to get the spicer ones? I am assuming GM but they qouted me $120.00 for just the rear.
If you go with a new one make sure and get a spicer. Usually the best place to get good U joints are 4x4 shops. Or you can put it back together as long as your not missing any needle bearings.
Were is the best place to get the spicer ones? I am assuming GM but they qouted me $120.00 for just the rear.
Yeah, thats the price
GMpartsdirect may be cheaper.
I was told that most of the chain stores aren't carrying Spicer anymore due to them making the OEM ones for the manufacturer. I did not check any chain stores though.
Check local driveline service places. Or heavy duty truck centers. Heavy duty is Spicer's playground, where your likly to find there stuff.
Yeah, thats the price
GMpartsdirect may be cheaper.
I was told that most of the chain stores aren't carrying Spicer anymore due to them making the OEM ones for the manufacturer. I did not check any chain stores though.
I think I can get the spicer parts,Thru my wholesale parts guy,They cary all the spicer inner and outer tie rod ends and stuff that I ask for.
I bought two new 1410 Spicer Ujoints last year. Ended up not needing them.....yet.
IIRC, they are rated to be a very strong Ujoint.
The part number on the boxes is 5-801x.
Just did a quick Google and found this: http://www.actionmachineinc.com/1410seriesnon-greasableu-joint.aspx
IIRC, they are rated to be a very strong Ujoint.
The part number on the boxes is 5-801x.
Just did a quick Google and found this: http://www.actionmachineinc.com/1410seriesnon-greasableu-joint.aspx
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Thanks for the P/N Tom; I spoke with Mike last night on an unrelated subject, and the U-Joint came up. I'm going to swing by a Napa and see what they have. He said Napa should have decent parts, and as long as it's solid, non-greasable, it should hold up to the abuse.
Im running some greaseable Precision U-joints. And I have yet to have a problem with them. But I didn't buy the factory replacement style. I had them cross them to a beefier U-joint that Precision makes.
I also have a lot of respect for Mike L. but I am not buying the whole solid ujoint is stronger than a greasable. Ie: I was breaking down a plow gang today and bent the handle on the pipe wrench, but the cheater pipe that had considerably less metal in it didn't bend. I may have the wrong outlook to it and feel free to correct me if I am wrong.
I also have a lot of respect for Mike L. but I am not buying the whole solid ujoint is stronger than a greasable. Ie: I was breaking down a plow gang today and bent the handle on the pipe wrench, but the cheater pipe that had considerably less metal in it didn't bend. I may have the wrong outlook to it and feel free to correct me if I am wrong.
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Which part is stronger is really hard to quantify; Assuming metalurgy and dimenstions are identical, the solid part will likely be stronger. Spicer is a name I recognize, and given the choise, I'd get that over most others. Moog is probably one of the few other's I'd look at. I was a little leary of the O'Rilley parts to begin with.
No one's saying ALL greasable/hollow joints will fail; I would hazard a guess, though, that the $18 greasable O'Rilley part will be more likely to break than the OE/Spicer solid part. Given enough power, you can break anything
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It's my belief that the greasable ones under normal circumstances would probably hold up. Although I wouldn't buy a cheap U-joint from automotive supply chains which includes Napa. The greasable ones are hollow or not solid and under extreme conditions racing sled pulling they wont be as strong as solid u-joints. Chances are they can flex or tweak and wreck a yoke or driveshaft. If your lucky you'll only break a strap or worse snap off a bolt.
I would ONLY buy Spicer U-joints ,but that is my opinion yours may differ. I run greasable Spicers in other low torque applications and have not had any issues.
For my Duramax only solid will do for me.
Oh yea
The cheater pipe scenario is a bad example. The flex will occur at the spot of torque which is closer to where the force is applied IE the part your trying to loosen.
The cheater pipe scenario is a bad example. The flex will occur at the spot of torque which is closer to where the force is applied IE the part your trying to loosen.
I have to agree with Mike on this one. I've seen two bars of equal OD and material composition, one solid, one hollow. They put stands on each end and suspended weights from the center. The solid bent (deflected) much sooner and to a greater degree than the hollow, but the hollow got to a point and then snapped, whereas the solid was able to take much more weight before failure even though it deflected considerably. I think that is where solid u-joints have an advantage over greasable ones. The can take the deflection and absorb it whereas the greasable ones get a point and the inner wall acts against the outer wall and causes a stress fracture/failure....
FWIW.
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Oh yea
The cheater pipe scenario is a bad example. The flex will occur at the spot of torque which is closer to where the force is applied IE the part your trying to loosen.
Ok I understand that know so it was a bad example.
But back to the U-joints, I didn't pay $18 for mine. Iirc it was more like $40 per each U-joint. I'm going to keep running them for now and if they do break you all will be the first I tell.
