I was reading I think it was from Kennedy diesel or some place like that but they really only say you should remove all your EGR stuff if your a full race truck. He recommends turning it off which will serve same purpose. I plan on removing it anyways but for now I was just going to turn it off in efilive. Now correct me if i'm wrong but it will be disabled but in the end if the pressure is high enough it will open anyways. Thats my first question and my second is to totally remove the EGR and make it safe so you don't blow bellows I would have to remove EGR valve, Cooler, install block off plates or get a Y bridge, and get 2 new up-pipes. that sound right?
Turn off EGR
- Thread starter pavetim
- Start date
I bought a dirt cheap ebay sinister copy delete kit. Install was easy. My only gripe is you need a 3” to 2.5” intercooler boot that’s 5” long. PPE sells these. And the up pipe block plate is leaking now. Best way to do it is a new lb7 up pipe. I was AMAZED at how much nasty junk was in the intake. And the truck runs a lot better now even tho the EGR was already turned off. Also, before I was losing coolant and didn’t know where. Deleted it and no more loss.
I was wondering about those ebay kits. Cause I can get both uppipes for like $200. I was reading and seen the most important thing was to get a blocker plate with more mount points so the bellows is supported more. Somebody sells it i think it's profab or something like that.
The plate I have has a support bracket and under heavy load still leaks. Be the guinea pig on the up pipes. I’m wondering how well they hold up. I’m iffy on them tho. DHD sells a factory replacement passenger up pipe with an egt bung welded in already for around $100 and PPE up pipes are $300 ish. Profab are the best however.
Don’t need to replace y bridge if you’re going cheap. Just the hot side pipe, boot, and up pipe/pipes. I’m gonna pm you
Edit: what model truck is it?
Edit: what model truck is it?
Ahh I don’t have as much experience with an lml. Should be the same concept tho. If you want to go with a full y bridge or just a pipe to the factory one, there are many companies for that. Or the eBay cheapie. Honestly I would save $100 and get the DHD up pipe with a bung. Especially on a stock truck the bigger up pipes aren’t gonna do much and too if it blows you’ll have to be doing it again.
Edit: I just reread your original post and in your case I think I’d just get a block off plate. It slips between your up pipe and cooler and everything else stays stock looking. This wouldn’t leak like a full delete block plate, is dirt cheap, and easy to remove in case you ever have issues with inspections or otherwise
I believe you need a tune and unplug 3 connectors.thats all,egr doesn't blow open like in previous years.
My EGR leaked big time if I leaked tested it by pressurizing the intake. It MUST be blocked to operate properly. I even purchased a new unit before deleting because I thought that was the cause of my frequent regens, the new EGR did the same exact thing.
Turning it off it will leak. Blocker plate will prevent this but still have the cooler and more than likely a intercooler tube full of nasty. Best option is lb7 up pipe and new cold side pipe.
You don’t need a driver up pipe
You don’t need a y bridge
You don’t need a hot side pipe
You need:
Tune
Passenger lb7 up pipe
Cold side pipe that bolts into factory y bridge.
These are the parts necessary to fully delete egr off a truck. Anything on top of this like a y bridge will help flow and depending on design not blow out under very heavy boost, talking greater than stock, but is not necessary to delete the egr.
Ok got it thats the info i need. What i would like to do is both up pipes, cold side pipe, y bridge, down pipe, full exhaust. Possibly hot pipe too. Do all the sensors get removed from the down pipe or are there some i need to use. Trying to see if i need down pipe with no bungs or get bungs and plug ones i don't need.
