Turbo Rebuild Kit

[shakenfake]

Looking for a turbo rebuild kit for when I get around to pulling the turbo, just a stock rebuild kit without any upgrades unless y'all say something is needed (stainless vanes/unison ring help to prevent rust to avoid P2563 and P003A codes?). I can find rebuild kits for the 6.0 PSD, but nothing for the LBZ turbo. I was under the impression that they had the same turbo (almost I believe the 6.0 has a different wheel in it?) but it does not seem like the rebuild kit fits. RockAuto seems to have a turbocharger service kit from Cardone and Rotomaster but I don't know if those are any good.
I am going to have the turbo almost out when I go to clean the EGR so I figure I might as well service it.

Thanks guys

Edit: I guess another question: Is it even worth it to do a full service on the turbo? I will be cleaning the vanes and what not for sure for peace of mind but I guess if it isn't worth it then I won't do it.

 

[shakenfake]

I spoke with John Kennedy and he suggested just pulling it apart and cleaning the unison ring and the vanes and the housing, servicing the turbo is not worth it. I was also under the impression that the unison ring was able to corrode and was part of the big issue with the turbo vanes sticking but according to him it is just the pilot housing so things like stainless vanes and unison ring are worthless.

Sounds good to me. Anyone have any thoughts?

 

[Bdsankey]

Usually I replace chargers. If I'm going to go through the effort of R&R on a turbocharger I'm going to simply replace it if I have any concerns about it like sticking, bearings, seals etc.

I know we typically use reman turbochargers from an extremely reputable company as our "go to" option but we've also done loads and loads of OEM replacements as they're relatively affordable.


This is just my opinion.

 

[PureHybrid]

That's easy to suggest when the customer is weighing the cost of r&r plus rebuild cost. If DIY then pulling it to replace bearings / seals and cleaning up the ring is a no brainer

 

[shakenfake]

@Bdsankey I don't have any concerns with it at all right now but I just wanted to inquire. Pulling it out is a job in and of itself so I figured while it is out I would freshen it up. I do not want to buy a new turbo, this one works and I would rather not waste it.

@PureHybrid All of this is DIY in my garage. I am anti-shop and I enjoy the work (or at least the result lol)

 

[PureHybrid]

To answer your question, the bearings and seals should be the same between the psd and duramax turbo. Yes the psd had a different turbine and compressor

 

[Lparrill]

Kinda in the same boat and weighing to rebuild the valley turbo or replace it. From my travels it seems like a fair amount of people have good experiences with the KB Diesel Performance rebuild kit. I haven't been able to find anything on longevity.

I've considered upgrading to RDS/DDP/ etc but that would require changing the tuning which I'm not overly excited about.

 

[Bdsankey]

That's easy to suggest when the customer is weighing the cost of r&r plus rebuild cost. If DIY then pulling it to replace bearings / seals and cleaning up the ring is a no brainer

Even then, the cost of a new garret charger is ~$1200 last I checked. By the time someone buys a decent rebuild kit it's what, $200? That doesn't include if you've got any issues with the unison ring/vanes, sensor, actuator, anything cracked/damaged etc.

So while yes, I push my customers for replacement, it's with good reason as well as knowing that repair isn't going to be my issue in the future.

 

[PureHybrid]

Even then, the cost of a new garret charger is ~$1200 last I checked. By the time someone buys a decent rebuild kit it's what, $200? That doesn't include if you've got any issues with the unison ring/vanes, sensor, actuator, anything cracked/damaged etc.

So while yes, I push my customers for replacement, it's with good reason as well as knowing that repair isn't going to be my issue in the future.

You don't have to sell me on the idea, never said you were wrong for doing so

 

[shakenfake]

Thanks for the input guys I appreciate it.

@Lparrill I'm with you on the tuning side. I don't want to do anything drastic that will require any more tuning than I already plan on getting. Is this the rebuild kit that you are talking about? It is a quarter of the price of the RockAuto one. https://kbdieselperformance.com/che...-for-6-6l-LLY-LBZ-2005-2007-Duramax-p68514809

@Bdsankey Definitely see where you are coming from with replacement and totally don't disagree. Peace of mind can be a good thing when working on something that takes such effort to R&R.

@PureHybrid Thanks for the info on the PSD turbo vs the LBZ one. That is what I thought but wanted to double check.

After talking with Kennedy I am leaning towards not even touching it and just cleaning up the unison ring and vanes but I am still on the fence. I have never rebuilt a turbo before but it does not seem overly complicated and preventative maintenance is a win, then again don't mess with a good thing right? lol

 

[Chevy1925]

Even then, the cost of a new garret charger is ~$1200 last I checked. By the time someone buys a decent rebuild kit it's what, $200? That doesn't include if you've got any issues with the unison ring/vanes, sensor, actuator, anything cracked/damaged etc.

So while yes, I push my customers for replacement, it's with good reason as well as knowing that repair isn't going to be my issue in the future.

for a business, this is the way to go. For the DIY that wants to take it apart, look at, save a few bucks and his time is free to him to do it, its not always the best route like Pure was saying.

tinkering is the way we got here lol.

 

[Bdsankey]

for a business, this is the way to go. For the DIY that wants to take it apart, look at, save a few bucks and his time is free to him to do it, its not always the best route like Pure was saying.

tinkering is the way we got here lol.

No doubt there. OEM turbo R&R is probably one of the jobs I hate the most................

 

[1FastBrick]

Except this DIY Project will turn into a couple months project for him like the time his tune went bad...

Now it might not be a bad Idea to get a new unison ring. It's my under standing that usually when they actually do Physically stick, the ring is worn and they get caught in the slots.

In His particular case with the live sensor data he had, my self and a few others believe it might just be the solenoid.

I am no Turbo Expert though and I am still learning the inn's out the mighty Duramax...

 

[shakenfake]

It was bad gas actually. I did say right from the beginning in my thread on that too. Should have gone with my gut fml. Oh well hindsight is 20/20

See that is what I was thinking as well. I thought new vanes and unison ring but according to John they do not corrode, can’t remember the type of metal.

I think so as well but John said that he had a similar incident with his turbo but he had hazing under throttle, I do not. I was just going to clean it for peace of mind anyway. I almost have it completely out doing a y-bridge and what not.

John’s word is not law but he‘s the only true diesel guru that has given me any info on my situation. Maybe I will contact DDP or someone else. I just don’t want to waste anyone’s time by asking them questions about a set up that they will never see in person or work on. They have better things to do than help me diagnose weird intermittent problems.

I am brand new to duramax. I have a pretty good idea on how everything sort of functions together but I am still learning every day.

Sorry if I am repetitive. Just try to let everyone know my thought process completely.

 

[1FastBrick]

Just ribbing you buddy...

 

[Chevy1925]

It was bad gas actually. I did say right from the beginning in my thread on that too. Should have gone with my gut fml. Oh well hindsight is 20/20

See that is what I was thinking as well. I thought new vanes and unison ring but according to John they do not corrode, can’t remember the type of metal.

I think so as well but John said that he had a similar incident with his turbo but he had hazing under throttle, I do not. I was just going to clean it for peace of mind anyway. I almost have it completely out doing a y-bridge and what not.

John’s word is not law but he‘s the only true diesel guru that has given me any info on my situation. Maybe I will contact DDP or someone else. I just don’t want to waste anyone’s time by asking them questions about a set up that they will never see in person or work on. They have better things to do than help me diagnose weird intermittent problems.

I am brand new to duramax. I have a pretty good idea on how everything sort of functions together but I am still learning every day.

Sorry if I am repetitive. Just try to let everyone know my thought process completely.

if you dont mind the DIY, id just pull it apart and see what it needs. if the ring or vanes are bad, you will see galling on them or bad wear. Then order parts from that point.