First, let me preface this post by making the point that I DO NOT like, agree with, or plan on using a lope tune. My question is this, what adjustments are made to the timing map, fuel map, and so forth that make a truck lope, and what it is about the tune that is so hard on a motor, I don't understand the tuning behind it, and everywhere I've looked I've only found negative feedback, taunts, and put downs regarding this tune. I would appreciate some helpfull information, and not just "it's bad because it is" thanks in advance guys! :thumb:
tuning question
- Thread starter John13296
- Start date
:gay:To make it lope you tell it to inject more than the needed fuel at idle speed causing the engine to rev up abruptly. Then the ECU notices the idle speed is higher than desired and responds by cutting the fuel, once the engine drops to an acceptable idle the process starts over again.
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The damage comes from the excessive fuel wetting down the cylinder walls and washing the small amounts of oil protecting it. The excessive fuel also ends up in the crankcase from blowby diluting the oil and possibly killing bearings etc.
The only use for a lope tune I can think of is, instant gratification from noticing a change you made in a table, and having the proof from seeing and hearing the truck react to the very small change.
The only use for a lope tune I can think of is, instant gratification from noticing a change you made in a table, and having the proof from seeing and hearing the truck react to the very small change.
The best lope tunes are achieved by wearing boots 3 sizes to big, stuffing half a can of "chaw" in your mouth, and taking your sister out on a proper date.
Once you have done those things, (and only then) you will achieve a proper lope tune, and the look that goes with it.
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Once you have done those things, (and only then) you will achieve a proper lope tune, and the look that goes with it.
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I almost spit my chew or "chaw" out on my sister, haha. No lope or smoke tunes!!!!
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Yep and the same thing happens if you idle a lot too.
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Well thanks for the real replies. I was asking simply to understand where the damage comes from and how it is achieved. Also the rude replies contribute nothing to the thread, except to show that your an uneducated 10 year old on his daddy's keyboard trying to play badass
Haha, I assure you none of these guys are playing on their parents computers, this isn't a bookface Duramax swap page.
There probably isn't any real damage if you give it just enough to lope, its when it starts to shake the truck and puff smoke with every lope the cylinder is getting loaded with fuel. Only damage may be from rapid acceleration / deceleration of the rotating assembly. Motors are more likely damaged from tunes like this because they're usually coupled with a "smoke" tune also.
There probably isn't any real damage if you give it just enough to lope, its when it starts to shake the truck and puff smoke with every lope the cylinder is getting loaded with fuel. Only damage may be from rapid acceleration / deceleration of the rotating assembly. Motors are more likely damaged from tunes like this because they're usually coupled with a "smoke" tune also.
Mine has more of what my tuner told me is a LB7 "lope" "growl" tune in the 2nd position, ever so slight but not for me. Still need to have it removed, of course I really never switch from the 90hp tune.
In all honesty all I need is 2 tunes fast and faster but in reality one is fine FAST...........!!!
In all honesty all I need is 2 tunes fast and faster but in reality one is fine FAST...........!!!
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"Well thanks for the real replies. I was asking simply to understand where the damage comes from and how it is achieved. Also the rude replies contribute nothing to the thread, except to show that your an uneducated 10 year old on his daddy's keyboard trying to play badass"
And this ^ is any better than anyone else's negativity? Isn't that the pot calling the kettle black. :roflmao: You could have left the part after that last comma and it would have meant way more!
And this ^ is any better than anyone else's negativity? Isn't that the pot calling the kettle black. :roflmao: You could have left the part after that last comma and it would have meant way more!
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Its bad when a guy would rather spend time researching lope tunes then how to actually make power or chasing ass.
I'm 53, married and still want to do the same thing I did in my teens, go fast and chase ass....:rofl:
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I wouldn't call it research, he took the easy way out. I'm sure love tunes were covered thoroughly 10 years ago.
While we are talking about lope tunes, I've been fighting a lope on my built motor. Only does it when the coolant is in the 60-120*F range. Above and below that, no lope.
It is a really slow lope. Idles at ~690 RPM for 1 second, then slowly down to ~660 over about a second, stays there for a second, then slowly back up, etc. Once it gets to 140*F or higher, no more lope. Below 40* (down to -12 at least), no lope. It only does it in park/neutral. Stick it in gear, and it does one more cycle, then idles perfect.
The truck would hot idle with the main fuel rate around 5mm3, so I tweaked the pulse tables so it was idling about 10 mm3 (17 with A/C on). If anything, it made it worse when warming up. I've tried playing with the pilot quantity vs. coolant table, but nothing seems to make it better.
Any of you guys run into this, and have any ideas how to get rid of it? Might as well derail this thread :spit:
Edit: relevant motor specs
+100% Exergy injectors
Exergy 12mm stroker, stock LBZ reg (desired and actual rail are perfect at idle)
Comp Cams biggest stupidest cam (starting to regret this)
Race cast 16.5:1 pistons, .020 over
SoCal stage 1 heads
It is a really slow lope. Idles at ~690 RPM for 1 second, then slowly down to ~660 over about a second, stays there for a second, then slowly back up, etc. Once it gets to 140*F or higher, no more lope. Below 40* (down to -12 at least), no lope. It only does it in park/neutral. Stick it in gear, and it does one more cycle, then idles perfect.
The truck would hot idle with the main fuel rate around 5mm3, so I tweaked the pulse tables so it was idling about 10 mm3 (17 with A/C on). If anything, it made it worse when warming up. I've tried playing with the pilot quantity vs. coolant table, but nothing seems to make it better.
Any of you guys run into this, and have any ideas how to get rid of it? Might as well derail this thread :spit:
Edit: relevant motor specs
+100% Exergy injectors
Exergy 12mm stroker, stock LBZ reg (desired and actual rail are perfect at idle)
Comp Cams biggest stupidest cam (starting to regret this)
Race cast 16.5:1 pistons, .020 over
SoCal stage 1 heads
Take a look at the timing compensation tables they all make some abrupt changes in the temp areas you are referring to. B0950 Injection timing minimum in P/N is the only P/N specific table I can think of. Check out B0740 also. These are just an educated guess at best, completely wrong at worst. FWIW
I wrote a lope into a dsp position on my boat tune just to see what it would sound like. Pipes under water at idle, so it was pretty lame.
Did make the wife say "what's a mater with the engine?" Directly followed by "Stop It Now!!" :rofl:
Did make the wife say "what's a mater with the engine?" Directly followed by "Stop It Now!!" :rofl:
OK I think it is safe to say a lope tune on duramax in a boat is still cool... Actually its ****ing awesome!!!
Why don't you post the tune and let some of the guys here take a look at what you did and maybe help you out, or at least point you in the right direction......:woott: