Trying to get a smoother ride
- Thread starter Parker_
- Start date
Take out your torsion bar bolts. Remove the overload spring. Or remove most of the leafs and run airbags.
You can run rancho 9000, they have adjustable stiffness. If you want to go crazy there was someone that made airbags for the front too.
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You can run rancho 9000, they have adjustable stiffness. If you want to go crazy there was someone that made airbags for the front too.
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Are you running the silver Bilsteins or the yellow ones? Silver ones are smoother. Also check your bump stops (jounce bumpers), they should be just touching the lower "A" arms. 35 psi should float like a butterfly. I run 65 frt and 70 rear, rides nice and smooth....
Sounds like your cranked up too high in order to fit the tire, and more than likely have the wrong length shock. If your on factory control arms and the torsions are cranked that much, that will be another limiting factor. Your truck should not ride like crap when "leveled" if setup correctly.
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I've got the silver ones . I inspected the shocks last night
ones def shot . I have bags in the back somehow the had like 28 psi in them so I took them down to around 5 . As for torsions yea I cranked them up to fit the tire but what's the right way to achieve the front a little hire ? Different ucas? And a longer shock ?
She's a tow rig but I daily drive it most of the time . Not looking to go crazy just wanna be smooth
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ones def shot . I have bags in the back somehow the had like 28 psi in them so I took them down to around 5 . As for torsions yea I cranked them up to fit the tire but what's the right way to achieve the front a little hire ? Different ucas? And a longer shock ?
She's a tow rig but I daily drive it most of the time . Not looking to go crazy just wanna be smooth
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go to a smaller tire and lower the front back down or put an UCA on and shocks to match. your ride still will not be cushy caddy style though.
Yes, different control arms and either longer shocks or shocks with spacers to correct the length. Make sure when choosing an after market control arm that it corrects the ball joint angle when leveled, and allows for extra travel over factory. There are a few manufactures that make fancy stock replacements that do not correct the above. Cognito is a good choice, along with Fox shocks. The Cognito UCA's with the correct length shock will give you 28% more travel than a factory style arm.
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If your cranked high enough to clear 35's its gonna ride rough, mine rides pretty harsh. Like said you need uca's and 2.5" higher shocks or extended brackets but its still going to be bouncy.
9000xl
2013 Chev 3500HD with a Fabtech 4" lift. 45,000 km. Shocks front and back and upper ball joints shot. Installed the 9000 shocks. Set them at 1... Wow. Bouncy and smooth on the blacktop. Set them at 9.... Stiff and bumpy ... Set them at 6... Still stiff and bumpy ..... Dialed them to 3... Haven't driven on them yet...but heading to work so I will see how they are on the highway and then the logging roads... I will update... But so far great shocks ... Cost $154 plus taxes each Cdn
2013 Chev 3500HD with a Fabtech 4" lift. 45,000 km. Shocks front and back and upper ball joints shot. Installed the 9000 shocks. Set them at 1... Wow. Bouncy and smooth on the blacktop. Set them at 9.... Stiff and bumpy ... Set them at 6... Still stiff and bumpy ..... Dialed them to 3... Haven't driven on them yet...but heading to work so I will see how they are on the highway and then the logging roads... I will update... But so far great shocks ... Cost $154 plus taxes each Cdn
Sorry to hijack a thread, but I didnt wanna create more clutter with a thread asking the same thing.
What is the process of removing a leaf spring? What does this even do?
What is the process of removing a leaf spring? What does this even do?