Truck caught on fire last night at pulls

[TrentNell]

I would not weld the gear. The impeller is pot metal and will not hold a weld. It will end up expanding from the heat of welding and when the weld breaks the impeller will spin on the shaft. Been there, got the t-shirt.

What ways have you guys tried welding it Travis ? I have good luck with the ones i have welded so far , but drill 3 holes in the cast around the circle fairly deep , submerge the pump i water while welding to protect the seals , burn it in hot with a tig , and make sure the weld penetrates into the shaft mostly , that way even if the weld doesnt stick to the cast or it cracks the impeller cant spin because the welds act like "keys" and with the pump submerged ( all but were welding) you have no fear of hurting the seals , not guaranteed to work but i havent had one fail yet this way if welded right using stainless rod .

And Jason , Drive pressure wont cause an over heating issue , but would / could explain the pipes .

 

[hondarider552]

I also ripped my firewall material out when I did my turbo install.

x2.......

 

[custom8726]

I would not weld the gear. The impeller is pot metal and will not hold a weld. It will end up expanding from the heat of welding and when the weld breaks the impeller will spin on the shaft. Been there, got the t-shirt.

Well I did weld it before reading this But on the bright side I have a brand new pump sitting here ready to go, and I am getting pretty dam good at taking this truck apart

 

[custom8726]

What ways have you guys tried welding it Travis ? I have good luck with the ones i have welded so far , but drill 3 holes in the cast around the circle fairly deep , submerge the pump i water while welding to protect the seals , burn it in hot with a tig , and make sure the weld penetrates into the shaft mostly , that way even if the weld doesnt stick to the cast or it cracks the impeller cant spin because the welds act like "keys" and with the pump submerged ( all but were welding) you have no fear of hurting the seals , not guaranteed to work but i havent had one fail yet this way if welded right using stainless rod .

And Jason , Drive pressure wont cause an over heating issue , but would / could explain the pipes .

Fired the truck back up last night and everything sounded and looked pretty good. It does sound a little louder for some reason like a lifter or something but it was in the garage with the hood up so maybe I am just being paranoid
I think just pulling back to back like I did just got everything super hot and aloud the uppipes and wastegate cover to expand/warp with the combined pressure and extreme heat. Off to put some miles on her now, wish me luck:thumb:

 

[custom8726]

Other then a broken passenger side motor mount (not sure how that happend) everything else seems fine. put almost 100 miles on it today and the motor, turbo, waterpump, etc seem to be working fine:thumb:

 

[02bigstrokin]

What ways have you guys tried welding it Travis ? I have good luck with the ones i have welded so far , but drill 3 holes in the cast around the circle fairly deep , submerge the pump i water while welding to protect the seals , burn it in hot with a tig , and make sure the weld penetrates into the shaft mostly , that way even if the weld doesnt stick to the cast or it cracks the impeller cant spin because the welds act like "keys" and with the pump submerged ( all but were welding) you have no fear of hurting the seals , not guaranteed to work but i havent had one fail yet this way if welded right using stainless rod .

And Jason , Drive pressure wont cause an over heating issue , but would / could explain the pipes .

we tryed tig welding it, it broke. we put a roll pin and key way in it. the rool pin broke. now i have a key way and a stainless cap on the end with a bolt locktited in. it is fine now.

 

[Rhall]

My uppipes would balloon after just a couple runs with the 42/55 twin set up, even with the drive pressure down low, i put a set of Ricks on, an they were still good after 10 or so runs.

 

[Colt]

Jegs.com has Kevlar Heat Barrier in sheets 24"x40" for $90 ea. it can stand 1100 deg. direct heat and 3k deg. radiant heat in the ad. not bad for Kevlar product. They have other sheet heat deterrant priced less too I'm opting for the Kevlar sheet for the firewall and using the hood kit they sell with foil radiant front. Total will only take 140 bucks.

 

[juddski88]

Jason, if you have any non reusable pumps ill take one off your hands. Mine is still good and since I'm going electric is like to keep it as a spare for someone.

 

[custom8726]

Jason, if you have any non reusable pumps ill take one off your hands. Mine is still good and since I'm going electric is like to keep it as a spare for someone.

I have a feeling I will be converting to electric at some point aswell, but I do have a couple extra housings sitting at the shop if you need one? If you are looking for a pump I only have the new one I just bought and I would like to keep that on my shelf just incase..

 

[maine04max]

Once you've gone electric you'll never go back :rofl:

 

[HEEPJEEP]

Forgot to add. About two weekends ago I had my firewall insulation start to ignite on me. I read this thread when it first was posted and right away fixed my firewall insulation that was hanging. Well I was grinding on the frame near the tranny crossmember location. I could smell something odd and stopped. I saw some odd smoke as well wafting around so I lifted the hood, and could see the insulation smoldering... Ended up putting it out and tore the insulation out by hand in pieces just in case I couldn't see areas that were smoldering. I started playing with the insulation and "experimenting". Even just directing a small amount of sparks from a grinder at it would start it smoldering almost instantly. Ended up putting the insulation about 15' from me on the floor and ground toward it and still got it to ignite again once a few sparks hit it. Same thing with welding spark/slag. Somewhat surprised it was that flammable.

If I get some spare time for sh!ts and giggles I will test with my plastic welder and progressively increase the temperature at a set distance to the "work piece" and get a general idea where it ignites air temperature wise. It won't do people any good, but something to do.

Keep an eye on this people! And be careful if you are welding or grinding with any chance or sparks hitting the insulation!

 

[duratothemax]

I ripped mine completely out. I see no reason to put it back in because I always have the radio on. Its really not that much noisier with no insulation anyways so who cares.

 

[custom8726]

Well since this thread is alive again,(Update) I did what everyone suggested and just ripped all the insulation out:thumb: I did not notice any noise differance in the cab and have not had any (Fire) issues since..