Is there a problem with making traction bars with square tubing or is there a reason they are done with DOM tubing. I have a set designed for my truck just looking for some info before I fab them up. Thank's
Phil
Phil
Traction bar question
- Thread starter Samdweezel05
- Start date
I made mine out of round but there are plenty of people that have square ones. As long as you make them as strong as you can, they should hold up ok.
Most people use round DOM just because it has such a good reputation of being strong as that's whats used in roll cages, bumpers, etc... and also cuz heim joint weld bungs are round
. The circle is a very strong shape as is has no edges or corners that could be shear points.
Most people use round DOM just because it has such a good reputation of being strong as that's whats used in roll cages, bumpers, etc... and also cuz heim joint weld bungs are round
. The circle is a very strong shape as is has no edges or corners that could be shear points.
I figure the weld in bungs can be modded to fit square tube or I will just make my own square bungs. DOM is probabaly better but none of the steel places around here carry it in stock so I would have to order 10 pieces of it to get it. I don't need 200 feet of DOM.
Phil
Phil
For what load is on it, square or rect stock would actually be stronger, pound for pound. Tube is used simply because it's cheaper and easy to put rod eyes on.
yep, what Pat said. Square/rectangular is stronger for this particular use since they are in compression. Square/rectangular shapes resist bending forces better than round shapes in compression situations for same sized shapes. i.e. 2"x1/4" wall square resists MUCH more bending force than 2"x1/2" wall DOM round stock. So pound for pound, they are just better for this situation.
I chose to use 2" square for this reason and I went with the same type of rod ends as Tomac uses (can see pictures on his website duramaxracing.com) because they are also MUCH better than a heim joint.
C-ya
I chose to use 2" square for this reason and I went with the same type of rod ends as Tomac uses (can see pictures on his website duramaxracing.com) because they are also MUCH better than a heim joint.
C-ya
That's what I was hoping. I will be doing a ladder bar setup and plan to use 1 1/2" square with .250" wall. Should look pretty cool too.
Phil
Phil
Now for the most important question. I did up a real special drawing of my plans. I used the most advanced thing I had. Paint. Should the ladder portion of the bars be vertical or should they split the angle of the upper and lower bars and be more perpendicular with the piviot of the frame mount? What way would be stronger? The lower bar will be the solid bar from the axle mount to the frame mount and the upper bar will be welded to the lower bar aboout 2 inches from the frame mount. I figure the lower bar will need to be the strongest because of the stress that it will see and the upper bar is just to keep the lower bar from arching or bending. Do I sound stupid yet?
Phil
Phil
Thats quite a drawing you have going there. I don't know if you need that much support. Renodmax and I built 2 sets with 1 1/4" dom with 3/4 heims no problems to date. That is a good design but you could save yourself some money. We just made the brackets go to the bottom of the spring cups
That is a bit overkill but yep, it should be REALLY stiff..... and heavy. But effective, nonetheless.
But effective, nonetheless.
super diesel
<<<< Under Pressure
The ladder type with square tube is pretty strong using the correct size (no puny stuff here). However for a single bar, I like the strenght of the 2-2.5" round. Aquaduct type strength. The latter style is the more correct when doing this (leverage advantage for sure). Cost of material is a consideration for some. Just my personal opinion.
I bent single bar 2" heavy wall DOM. I have since switched to 2" x 3" rectangular tubing. NWPADMAX reminded me about the laws of statics. The rectangular tubing is a much better choice because if is stiffness. The stuff I used is actually lighter than my old DOM bars. The just look huge.
I used Summit Racing 3/4" rods on the front only. The Axle end is just a bolt thru steel. But I am single bar not ladder bar.
I used Summit Racing 3/4" rods on the front only. The Axle end is just a bolt thru steel. But I am single bar not ladder bar.
although most people wouldn't want to take the time to build it, the strongest and lightest thing would be latace, like a crane boom. But the external dimensions would be much larger.
I can understand that. It would be 4 smaller bars that come together at the frame mount with all the webbing in between. The weight doesn't matter to me as I am only starting out with a regular cab truck. I can use all the weight I can get. Do any of your guys leave your raction bars on all the time and drive them on the street?
Phil
No binding issues or crazy road manners. Must make for one hell of a launch on dry pavement.
Phil
Phil
I have always wanted to weld brackets to the axle instead of the spring cups. It seems like to the axle you would have the least axle wrap, since the axle would still be able to move in the spring cups.