Torsion Bars

Cabbaaage

Pain is only a pulse, if you just stop feeling it
Sep 24, 2018
22
0
1
Central Fl
Just upgraded to a set of 33” tires and had to crank the torsion bars a little. Before I got started, I looked at the UCAs while under full weight and the passenger side UCA was touching the frame stop. I jacked the truck up and decranked that side a few turns and set it back down on its own weight, and the UCA was still touching. Did it again, and almost took the bolt all the way out... still touching. Any advice on how I can get that UCA to come off of the frame stop. I hadn’t noticed it until I put these new tires on.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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UCA is upper control arm. He’s talking about the UCA bump stop.

Cabbaaage, you probably have lift keys in the front end. Plus the fact you need to rock the truck back and forth after letting the front down with the jack to settle the suspension
 

Cabbaaage

Pain is only a pulse, if you just stop feeling it
Sep 24, 2018
22
0
1
Central Fl
If I'm reading what I think you're saying, that's not a frame stop. That's part of the suspension system and. There's a top out "stop" when the wheel is at full drop, but that's the only stop. Look at the link. Are you talking about the yellow part?

http://www.norcaltruck.com/01_misc_pic/tech/hd_front_OEsuspension.jpg

Where the picture shows the UCA drop out travel, that is where the UCA is touching at ride height. Even with the bolt damn close to being out. :/
 

Cabbaaage

Pain is only a pulse, if you just stop feeling it
Sep 24, 2018
22
0
1
Central Fl
So I guess to remedy this, an option would be run stock keys? I just want to “get by” and safely for the next few months, and then the truck is undergoing major surgery. I know it isn’t a huge concern, it just bothers me a bit when I go over a bump and hear a clunk.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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Pull the bolts out and move the truck back and forth a few feet, then recheck your gap.
 

SoCalMike

Member
Dec 12, 2010
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SoCal
If you can live with it for a couple months then leave it. If you can't , look for some stock keys and swap them in. Don't forget the alignment after the adjustment.
 

2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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Norcal
You may be able to reindex the keys and the use the bolts to put it back up to where it works but unloading the torsion bars can be tricky. Not any worse then putting new keys in but sure is cheaper if it works
 

Cabbaaage

Pain is only a pulse, if you just stop feeling it
Sep 24, 2018
22
0
1
Central Fl
By reindexing it, do you mean unloading the bar, and turning the bar once counter clockwise while leaving the key in the same position, then reinserting it?
 

Cabbaaage

Pain is only a pulse, if you just stop feeling it
Sep 24, 2018
22
0
1
Central Fl
Sounds like I’m going to have to suck it up and deal with it, or go to stock keys huh? I’m just not understanding why the UCA is drooped all the way down with the bolt not tensioning the key up.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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Sounds like I’m going to have to suck it up and deal with it, or go to stock keys huh? I’m just not understanding why the UCA is drooped all the way down with the bolt not tensioning the key up.

ive asked/told twice about moving the truck AFTER you pull the bolts but i have not gotten an answer back on this.

Did you move the truck forward and backward AFTER pulling the bolts out?
 

Cabbaaage

Pain is only a pulse, if you just stop feeling it
Sep 24, 2018
22
0
1
Central Fl
So I’ve pulled the adjuster bolt out of the passenger side. I did that as soon as I got to work this morning but haven’t had a chance to move it around yet. This weekend is crazy busy, so there’s a ton of set up I’m overseeing right now. But when I get a breather, I’m going to roll it around and report back with the findings.
 

Cabbaaage

Pain is only a pulse, if you just stop feeling it
Sep 24, 2018
22
0
1
Central Fl
UPDATE: I decided while I had a jack handy at work, I backed out the driver side adjuster bolt as well and lowered it back down, drove around the parking lot a few times in forward and reverse. The UCA seemed to have settled up a little more. I can now see daylight through the gap. Maybe 1/8th inch. Hopefully it’ll get better on the drive home tonight, then off to the alignment shop.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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its time to take some pics of the issue. pictures of the whole front suspension please

something is wrong
 

Cabbaaage

Pain is only a pulse, if you just stop feeling it
Sep 24, 2018
22
0
1
Central Fl
https://imgur.com/gallery/WAgtJkI

Let me know if this works. There should be 3 pictures. First is pass side, second is driver side, and third should be the crossmember with adjuster bolts out. Is there anything in specific you need me to post pictures of? I will go take pictures from the front of both sides if you’d like.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Phoenix Az
well you got a few options.

it has lift keys so the cheapest thing will be to yank them and throw stockers in. just be careful if you have raised shock mounts on the lower arms.

leave the keys and keep a very VERY close eye on UCA ball joint play but its going to ride like hell.

put a set of cognito or other type arms on meant for cranked front ends to allow for more suspension droop travel, keep the ball joints alive and get a better ride

or best way would be to put a 4" lift, lower it all the way and have the best of everything (better steering geometry to keep parts alive, same for suspension geometry, and a smoother ride over any type of cranked front end).