Top 20 (or more) easy to do mods
- Thread starter tanman05
- Start date
Save yourself some money and do it right the first time!
#1 Trans (ATS or Suncoast)
#2 EFI tune (buy a V2 or have some one tune it)
#3 Turbo (HiTec, 4094, A5k)
#4 Lift pump (FASS, Airdog or PPE)
#5 Centerlink/sleeves
Thats all you need for a mid/low 12 sec truck.
If you want easy to do......
#1 Canned Tuner
#2 Airbox mod
#3 Shift kit
#4 gauges
#5 exhaust
#1 Trans (ATS or Suncoast)
#2 EFI tune (buy a V2 or have some one tune it)
#3 Turbo (HiTec, 4094, A5k)
#4 Lift pump (FASS, Airdog or PPE)
#5 Centerlink/sleeves
Thats all you need for a mid/low 12 sec truck.
If you want easy to do......
#1 Canned Tuner
#2 Airbox mod
#3 Shift kit
#4 gauges
#5 exhaust
On an LBZ I would start with:
EFI Live and some good tunes for towing and up to +100rwhp.
Trans-go Jr. to get the trans to hold up a little longer
Flo~Pro 4" stainless exhaust to give it a nice rumble and keep EGTs in check
Tie Rod Sleeves and Centerlink if you plan to do anything in 4Wd in it - offroading, sled pulling, or drag racing. On the stock trans (even with Trango Jr) boosted launches are not gonna be good on things though.
Start saving for a built trans - SunCoast Stage IV - then you'll be ready for about 500 rwhp and 12s
Lift pump and shimmed Fuel Pressure Relief Valve - You'll be all set for 530+ rwhp and mid 12s.
And this can all happen on stock intake, downpipe, injectors, and turbo - the only time you'll go under the hood is to install the shims in the FPRV.
Then you can start worrying about intake and downpipe (if you plan to stay stock turbo), nitrous, bigger turbo, ect. But you better start a fund to build the motor at that point. Pistons rods and head studs are the minimum.
EFI Live and some good tunes for towing and up to +100rwhp.
Trans-go Jr. to get the trans to hold up a little longer
Flo~Pro 4" stainless exhaust to give it a nice rumble and keep EGTs in check
Tie Rod Sleeves and Centerlink if you plan to do anything in 4Wd in it - offroading, sled pulling, or drag racing. On the stock trans (even with Trango Jr) boosted launches are not gonna be good on things though.
Start saving for a built trans - SunCoast Stage IV - then you'll be ready for about 500 rwhp and 12s
Lift pump and shimmed Fuel Pressure Relief Valve - You'll be all set for 530+ rwhp and mid 12s.
And this can all happen on stock intake, downpipe, injectors, and turbo - the only time you'll go under the hood is to install the shims in the FPRV.
Then you can start worrying about intake and downpipe (if you plan to stay stock turbo), nitrous, bigger turbo, ect. But you better start a fund to build the motor at that point. Pistons rods and head studs are the minimum.
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The EGR needs to be blocked off also.
With EFI Live it will be disabled and unless it is held open by build up there's really no need. People say that a certain boost pressure or drive pressure will force them open but it's not possible. The reason there are 2 ports is so that they balance each other out. The way the valve is made the valves have to both open at once; boost is trying to open one valve and close the other, drive pressure is trying to close one and open the other - it is all balanced out and only with outside force (from the EGR motor) will the valves open. But on the other hand it is cheap to block it and have peace of mind.
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You are assuming that drive press and boost pressure are equal
Show me a lly or lbz that has constant = boost/drive pressure
Any differential and the valve will open!..You can tell this by simply logging the EGR posistion
Also with no plate in where does the build up of soot and carbon go
Best option would be to block off below the intake riser because without you equal pressure from the exhaust after installing the blocker plate you are now cracking open the EGR from as you put it unequal pressure
although not many people do that.....It is the best way to block it off IMO
You are assuming that drive press and boost pressure are equal
Show me a lly or lbz that has constant = boost/drive pressure
Any differential and the valve will open!..You can tell this by simply logging the EGR posistion
Also with no plate in where does the build up of soot and carbon go
Best option would be to block off below the intake riser because without you equal pressure from the exhaust after installing the blocker plate you are now cracking open the EGR from as you put it unequal pressure
although not many people do that.....It is the best way to block it off IMO
I'm not assuming anything....
There are 2 valves on a rod that is controlled by the EGR motor. Boost pressure is always trying to push one of these valves towards the closed position and the other towards the open position - so by itself the boost side is balanced, there are equal forces fighting each other and cancelling each other out. Drive pressure is also trying to push one valve open and the other closed - so by itself the drive pressure side is balanced.
So:
35 PSI boost pressure open - 35 PSI boost pressure closed = 0 PSI pressure
50 PSI drive pressure open - 50 PSI drive pressure closed = 0 PSI pressure
Or to put it another way:
35 PSI boost pressure trying to open it + 50 PSI drive pressure trying to open it = 85 PSI of pressure trying to open it.
35 PSI boost pressure trying to close it + 50 PSI drive pressure trying to close it = 85 PSI of pressure trying to close it.
So you have 85 PSI trying to close it and 85 PSI trying to open it; they cancel each other's forces and the valve doesn't move unless outside force from the EGR motor opens it.
The BEST option is to get headers and up-pipes and make a custom LBZ Y-bridge into LBZ intake runners and get rid of the cooler and valve altogether. Or the cheaper option is to get a federal LB7 passenger side up-pipe or cut and weld your stock one, then weld the intake piece closed and make a bracket to hold it in place and still completely get rid of the EGR valve and cooler.:angel:
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*cough* BS *cough*
I have been screwing with EGR for the last few weeks. I have been in and out of it. I have a whole intake from intercoller to y bridge sitting here I have been playing with too.
I am working on a EGR delete to remove the entire EGR. Not just block it.
Disabling it and not blocking it, it will open.
I have been screwing with EGR for the last few weeks. I have been in and out of it. I have a whole intake from intercoller to y bridge sitting here I have been playing with too.
I am working on a EGR delete to remove the entire EGR. Not just block it.
Disabling it and not blocking it, it will open.
Even when EGR has been disabled by EFI it will still open up under throttle the plate helps it keep it's mouth closed. Very easy and cheap.
Newly I prefer the headlight out mod
Newly I prefer the headlight out mod
what about the "tj lounger mod " ? I think thats how you spell it . I did this on my pass seat for the wife on long trips . I know this isnt a performance mod but makes it nice for putting seat back .
Shorthand: Run a diode from #85 on the high beam fuse to #85 on the low beam fuse so that power flows from high to low.