Yes, I realize this. I'm just giving him some trouble. It just looked like a pretty clean truck. I understand cutting weight for a true race truck but I would personally cringe to chop up a perfectly good setup. It is easier to add more power to overcome the weight issue than to take on this project. It is cool though...:thumb:
Time To Start My Reg Cab Short Box Build
- Thread starter Ne-max
- Start date
Yes, I realize this. I'm just giving him some trouble. It just looked like a pretty clean truck. I understand cutting weight for a true race truck but I would personally cringe to chop up a perfectly good setup. It is easier to add more power to overcome the weight issue than to take on this project. It is cool though...:thumb:
Weight is a huge factor the more you can drop the better, MPL motorsports is currently doing this same thing on a trip turbo race truck. Less weight means you need less HP and is easier on all hard parts. if you could have a competitive race truck with only 800hp it will last 3 times as long as a truck that needs 1200hp to run the same times.
I say kudos to the OP :thumb:
I would strip down under the dash while its all apart and loose what ever you can for wieght there is over 75lbs of useless stuff under the dash.
Exactly. It takes about 40hp more for a 6000pd truck to run the same times as a 5500 pound truck. This build is goin to cost me around 350.00 cause of having to get a custom driveshaft built. I do plan on going and trimming of more crap I dont need. Spare tire holder, rear bumper and so fourth. I wish I would have weighed it before I started this project.
Carter. The truck looks a lot worse in person. Has 317000 miles on the clock. So I think she deserves it.
If you lose the torsion bars and run coil overs you can save 100lbs
My truck is gutted as much as possible R/C long bed and weighs 5330lbs
my trans is about 80lbs lighter than a allison and t-case combo but you can make up with the lesser bed and frame. My turbos weigh a fair bit also so you might make up some there also.
I have complete custom wiring and that lost alot of weight also.
I unfortunatly need to have lots of HP to be compettive in pro street when some trucks are 4500lbs.
:thumb:
You said you picked it up for $4K. How about you put the ex cab back on and I'll fly out and bring you $6K no questions asked.
My 2wd is 6100 without the spare tire and the tailgate, no other weight cut. Hitch still on, heavy 22s, and my fat240ass inside.
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:thumb:
You said you picked it up for $4K. How about you put the ex cab back on and I'll fly out and bring you $6K no questions asked.
To bad I took off the front windshield otherwise I would.
Talked to the place thats doing my drive shaft. Thats going to be the most expensive part on this whole deal. But will be worth it loosing the 2 piece drive shaft.
Looks like an awsome project! Mine went from a CC/LB puller to a CC/SB lowered rig. I cut up a 80k mile truck.... dont see what difference that makes??? Anyway yours is alot more work. Keep up on the pics. Super cool:thumb:
I think this way would be a walk in the park if I had a cab from a diesel that I did not need to swap everything. It dont take crap to pull a cab. The frame is nice and straight in that area.
Got a lot done last night. Had a couple slow downs but its getting there. Just the matter of buttoning things up.
Got a lot done this weekend. All I have left is to remount my lift pump, driveshaft and exhaust. Not going to lie. I am freaking beat from working on this thing.
Hot damn! This is the kick in the arse I need to get me pricing out mine.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk while riding porcelain.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk while riding porcelain.
Im in a crap spot. Have to figure out how I am going to do my exhaust. Can not go above my torsion cross over cause my other mount that hold the fuel cooler is in the way. Only have 4 inches there.
