I'm not gona drag this slow turd any more it just has not ran we'll ever it always been slow an under power so stock parts are going back on and thats it for that motor
Flat cv are flat cv why do keys matter
We shall see what happens to my front end this year with an all season brace. If she breaks...stage 3 kit from dmax store is going in.
My turd is slower then yours, I'm still throwing parts at it
And now to contribute:
I agree you gotta use stock keys and get tht negative cv angle, then sleeves and braces. Just mke sure it's all tight before you sleeve and brace. Any play in the idler, pitman, or tie rods and you will be headed for the walls, or chances will be greatly increased
No your not slower then me in 1/8 with I should be mid 7s but I'll never se it
No your not slower then me in 1/8 with I should be mid 7s but I'll never se it
I hope you didn't race with angles like this.. If so, why are we even helping you?
http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/drag-strip/420642-cv-angles.html
I had lift keys in mine with bolts lowered down and just sleeves, nothing else and didn't have anything break
I hope you didn't race with angles like this.. If so, why are we even helping you?
http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/drag-strip/420642-cv-angles.html
Here is what I would do.
First, do some research on centerlinks and see what one would be best for you. There is a shit ton of info about them on here and many different choices. Each has it's pros and cons.
Next, check for the slop in the idler/pitman arm like I talked about above.
Third, get some stock keys and when you go racing, drop the cv"s so the cv end at the wheel is a little higher than the cv at the diff end.
Well that can't be true
How so? That's what my stock turbo LBZ ran with 1.7 60'
How so? That's what my stock turbo LBZ ran with 1.7 60'
Well I ran 8.0 in the 1/8 and a 12.39 in the quarter. 8.2 netted a 12.6.