Those of you in the 11's or 10's, what kind of setups?

thunder550

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Apr 2, 2013
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Either a 72 or 75 single, 60-100% sticks, and a very loose converter should get you in a decent time here at Bandimere. I could see a stock engine surviving with the lower weight and good tuning :) Still wish I could have seen your truck run in person.

I'll be back at it next summer, we'll have to set up another time to see if we can get some people together.

Nothing lol I do cheater slicks and lower the front end no tractions bars yet and stock shocks.

I have caltracs already, going to try to strap the front suspension next year to keep more weight over the front tires. My steering angles are already negative up front at current ride height. The front left spins when the weight shifts back, and there are no locker/LSD options for the 8.25" front diff that I know of. I think if I strap the front end and crank the shit outta the caltracs, and maybe lower the tire pressure a bit I'll do a little better. There's also a guy over on performancetrucks who is making a coilover conversion brackets for the half tons, that may be worth looking into at some point too.
 

Subman

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Jun 27, 2008
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I'll be back at it next summer, we'll have to set up another time to see if we can get some people together.



I have caltracs already, going to try to strap the front suspension next year to keep more weight over the front tires. My steering angles are already negative up front at current ride height. The front left spins when the weight shifts back, and there are no locker/LSD options for the 8.25" front diff that I know of. I think if I strap the front end and crank the shit outta the caltracs, and maybe lower the tire pressure a bit I'll do a little better. There's also a guy over on performancetrucks who is making a coilover conversion brackets for the half tons, that may be worth looking into at some point too.

Many of us have tried that and it's a waste of time, best bet is let the truck do what it wants to do, just slow it down when doing it, i.e. double adjustable shocks front and rear.
 

thunder550

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Apr 2, 2013
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Great link, thanks. According to his number I need to be about 625 RWHP, so you guys were right about toeing the line a bit.

Many of us have tried that and it's a waste of time, best bet is let the truck do what it wants to do, just slow it down when doing it, i.e. double adjustable shocks front and rear.

Shocks would be easier than coming up with a strap setup. Thanks for the info.

Looks like built trans, lift pump, either a big single or compound setup, dual fuelers, bigger injectors, adjustable shocks, and some smaller wheels with drag radials are in order. It's only money, right?
 

thunder550

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Apr 2, 2013
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Also, the 5300 lbs weight is just pulling the tailgate and spare, and includes the weight of the 20's. If I went all out and removed bumper(s), 1 battery, and seats/center console, I bet I could get it below 5000, especially with smaller wheels and tires.
 

ecc_33

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Aug 10, 2006
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I think mid to low 11s can be had without building your motor but you will be riding a fine line

I bent all of my rods and broke skirts off the bottom of two of my pistons on my first 11.90's pass. I wouldn't hold my breath on how long its going to last.
 

Evan@InglewoodTrans

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Aug 5, 2010
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I bent all of my rods and broke skirts off the bottom of two of my pistons on my first 11.90's pass. I wouldn't hold my breath on how long its going to last.

Your truck weighs quite a bit more than a 1/2 ton swap too. I'll bet he can run 11's for a while being so light.
 

07metallicgreen

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Nov 24, 2011
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i ran a 12.3 with 472 and 40 overs, stock pump, and letting off cause of bracket racing. I should get a 12.2 easily. if you get a good 60ft time with your weight 11's should be easy