Those dang fpr issues....

[IOWA LLY]

Idle RPMs jumping around by 500 RPMs sounds like something other then the FPR to me.

But unfortunately by bolting a junk duracrap brand FPR on it you need to start over there first. Bosch only for fuel system parts.


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[Codido187]

Ok so I am biting the bullet and buying a tech 2. And a Bosch fpr and getting rid of that Duracrap bs that I but in there it’s all they had so I stuck with it ba decision.

I went to three local mechanics two of which were diesel mechanics and nobody has a friggin tech 2

Also the rpms no longer show on the tach it’s just a miss and the rpms stay steady as can be

Or should I buy an efi live system I hear you can run diagnostics on them as well?

 

[DAVe3283]

EFILive can do 99% of the diagnostics a Tech2 can on the Duramax, so for most people it is a better value, since you can tune your truck with it too. Well, that depends on how Chinese of a Tech2 you get, they can get pretty cheap :rofl:

 

[Codido187]

Ahaha efi live it is I won’t risk running Chinese stuff on my truck I did that once with a duralast fpr. Now I am neck deep in diesel surge ahaha. I was also looking at the ppe timers but I hear they’re not nearly as nice as efilive. I will probably go with the economy tune over the medium I don’t want to kill my transmission next.


Any recommendations of which efi scanner I should get I see a spade a jack I would like to spend roughly 500-600

 

[DAVe3283]

I am not as familiar with how the AutoCal handles logging/diagnostics/realtime control vs. the full-on V2. And the full V2 Scan and Tune is $800, which sounds out of your budget.

Anyone know if you can do the DVT stuff with an AutoCal?

 

[Codido187]

I could get the ppe standard and it’ll do both but man I would really like the ego it’s kust out of my budget right now. Hopefully somebody sheds some light if the AutoCal will run diagnostics

 

[Codido187]

Ok I order a new fuel pressure regulator Bosch, a ppe fprv to begin with I also ordered the filter head gasket rebuild. Everything should be in about a week or so and it’ll take me a week or two to get everything taken apart with my work schedule. I’ll keep everybody posted

 

[IOWA LLY]

Where are you from? Someone with some good Duramax knowledge could save you a lot of money and headache depending on if your located near someone or not.


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[tsd_billy]

I am not as familiar with how the AutoCal handles logging/diagnostics/realtime control vs. the full-on V2. And the full V2 Scan and Tune is $800, which sounds out of your budget.

Anyone know if you can do the DVT stuff with an AutoCal?

You cannot if i remember correctly. And realtime logging is alot harder because it was never meant to be done by the end users of an autocal. Id get a v2 from efilive with the scan only option and buy the tuning provisions later on and pick a good tuner (or buy the book on star-lite diesels website and start doing your own tuning). $500 scan only v2 iirc


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[Codido187]

I am in los Lunas New Mexico thank you for help. I went to a diesel mechanic today and they’re Fox was put 2 quarts of atf in my tank and I said no thanks.

 

[tsd_billy]

I am in los Lunas New Mexico thank you for help. I went to a diesel mechanic today and they’re Fox was put 2 quarts of atf in my tank and I said no thanks.

Im located in oklahoma but i travel to west Texas often. I know some good mechanics out that way


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[Codido187]

Awesome I hear Pete’s is pretty good in Belen but I was trying to fix the dang thing on my own. Who do you recommend out this way?

 

[Codido187]

Alright here is the update it was a bad fpr I replaced it with a Bosch and truck is running top top shape. Easiet way I found to get to the fuel pressure regulator was remove the coolant lines ac compressor and where the fprv is located remove the banjo bolt and force gave me plenty of room to get the fpr in and out in a breeze. It took me roughly 2 hours pulling it apart and 2 hours putting it back together.

 

[ikeG]

:thumb:. Good to hear. Feels good to figure a problem out!

 

[Codido187]

Heck yeah thank you everybody for all your help next is finding a good hid kit and front and rear bumper

 

[joshd472]

Glad you got it sorted out.

 

[tsd_billy]

:happy:


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[nwodiesel]

The fuel tables and idle rpm will vary with coolant temperature. And if the ECT sensor is disconnected it will think the coolant temp is very cold. (-40f) So the idle rpm will be raised and all sorts of other strange things will happen because the ECM is trying to compensate for the extreme cold.


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Hi I'm wondering if I'm having the same problem. 200 rpm higher idle, and loud like its -30....Plus it cycles the Glow plugs every start for about 7-8 seconds just like it was -30. I have no engine lights either. I don't have a way of scanning so I have to go to a shop Thanks

 

[ikeG]

Hi I'm wondering if I'm having the same problem. 200 rpm higher idle, and loud like its -30....Plus it cycles the Glow plugs every start for about 7-8 seconds just like it was -30. I have no engine lights either. I don't have a way of scanning so I have to go to a shop Thanks

You will have to check the pids with the scan tool to see what it thinks coolant temp, ambient temperature, etc are.

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