I completely agree now! DeanThere is no way that 7000 lb 2 post lift will safely lift your truck. If you have other vehicles that are the primary use for the lift, great, but don't buy it expecting to use it for your truck.
I completely agree now! DeanThere is no way that 7000 lb 2 post lift will safely lift your truck. If you have other vehicles that are the primary use for the lift, great, but don't buy it expecting to use it for your truck.
Actually from the MaxJax that I was looking at and the AplusLift (10K two post) is about a couple grand less! DeanEspecially when the cost isn't lightyears different.
Personally I tend to stick to Atlas, BendPak, Mohawk and Rotary. They're all solid lifts and worth their price.Actually from the MaxJax that I was looking at and the AplusLift (10K two post) is about a couple grand less! Dean
APlusLift 10,000LB 2-Post Floor Plate Heavy Duty Car Lift with 3 Year Warranty - HW-10KBP-A
One of the most affordable car lift with 10,000 LBS Heavy Duty with Strong Double "S" Column Design. Thick Steel Column Steel 13/64”, Carriage and Arm 15/64”www.apluslift.com
Honestly not that often. Most times will be just for a tire rotation or an oil change. I'm not that worried about the height underneath. If it is high enough for me to work under it with a work stool will be plenty. The big help will be with project cars and lifting the body off of the frame for restoration work. I just wanted something that was big enough to accomplish everything which included my Duramax. DeanPersonally I tend to stick to Atlas, BendPak, Mohawk and Rotary. They're all solid lifts and worth their price.
How often do you plan to use the lift?
But at that point you have the option to lower the lift. My last shop had 10' ceilings, my drive on wouldn't even make to the first set of locks, with my CCSB on it. I would put jack stands under all (4) corners of the lift. New shop has 16' ceilings, lift can stop at any set of the locks that make the job the easiest.Idk, the height thing can be a catch 22. Yes it's nice to be able to walk under it, but then you're reaching above your head to wrench on certain parts, and some you can't reach at that point. Also if you're pulling a transmission you'd need a pretty tall jack, my two stage trans jack won't reach with a truck all the way at the top
Idk, the height thing can be a catch 22. Yes it's nice to be able to walk under it, but then you're reaching above your head to wrench on certain parts, and some you can't reach at that point. Also if you're pulling a transmission you'd need a pretty tall jack, my two stage trans jack won't reach with a truck all the way at the top
Bingo! That's what multiple settings are for on a lift.But at that point you have the option to lower the lift. My last shop had 10' ceilings, my drive on wouldn't even make to the first set of locks, with my CCSB on it. I would put jack stands under all (4) corners of the lift. New shop has 16' ceilings, lift can stop at any set of the locks that make the job the easiest.
For me, I tore up my right shoulder lifting weights back in the day. For what I plan to use the lift for sitting on a butt card working in front of me is all I plan to do. Long periods with my right arm above me just does not work for me anymore. DeanI can tell you from experience it sucks working under a truck in a half stooped posture. I'd rather lay on the ground than walk around all hunched over. At least laying down is comfortable, but to each their own. FWIW, my transmission jack has never had a problem getting a transmission out of a truck with the lift picked all the way as high as it would go which is high enough for me to comfortably work under it at over 6' tall.
Which lift did you have that let you put it in a 10 ft ceiling? I really don't want to do the post lift with the cables and hoses running on the floor. For me working on my Dmax will mostly be for tire rotations and oil changes. The big pull for me is car restoration projects and the rest of the family vehicles. Not running a business out of this. DeanBut at that point you have the option to lower the lift. My last shop had 10' ceilings, my drive on wouldn't even make to the first set of locks, with my CCSB on it. I would put jack stands under all (4) corners of the lift. New shop has 16' ceilings, lift can stop at any set of the locks that make the job the easiest.View attachment 127501
I know this feeling. Both shoulders had torn labrums and could voluntarily dislocate them by the time I was 16 (I had been dislocating them for a LOT longer). When I was 17 I had surgery on both and being a dumbass 17 year old I didn't follow the PT guidelines. Now I am stuck with a lack of mobility, pain and tiredness. Go me!For me, I tore up my right shoulder lifting weights back in the day. For what I plan to use the lift for sitting on a butt card working in front of me is all I plan to do. Long periods with my right arm above me just does not work for me anymore. Dean
Bingo! That's what multiple settings are for on a lift.
I don't know how many times I've had someone lower the lift around me when doing something up in the trans tunnel, or just barely out of reach and it needs to be that 4-8" lower, or crawl/roll under it then stand up. I did my up-pipe blankets with the trans out but up-pipes installed, the lift was a game changer for that.
Which jack? Mine goes up to 72". I've ran into this before on a smaller truck, not a 2500 / 3500I can tell you from experience it sucks working under a truck in a half stooped posture. I'd rather lay on the ground than walk around all hunched over. At least laying down is comfortable, but to each their own. FWIW, my transmission jack has never had a problem getting a transmission out of a truck with the lift picked all the way as high as it would go which is high enough for me to comfortably work under it at over 6' tall.