The custom "ben" intake bridge

[TNRGreene]

I would mark were you need it and tig it in place.

I don't think you can get the Y bridge back on then. It's a super tight fit in the front like that.

Ours first blew out @ 10lbs, then 22lbs, then 30lbs & now it holds Not sure wha to call what we did but mine goes in in the up position & rotates towards the passenger side, has tabs that "lock it in top & bottom. I mentioned earlier that mine pulled the bottom out.

 

[SmokeShow]

I don't think you can get the Y bridge back on then. It's a super tight fit in the front like that.

Ours first blew out @ 10lbs, then 22lbs, then 30lbs & now it holds Not sure wha to call what we did but mine goes in in the up position & rotates towards the passenger side, has tabs that "lock it in top & bottom. I mentioned earlier that mine pulled the bottom out.

sounds like a slick design! :cool2:

 

[Idaho CTD]

Ben,

Get rid of the cast piece all together and Tig a piece of 3" aluminum to the cross bridge. Then build a new upper IC pipe in 3".

 

[WolfLMM]

Well that was short lived. It blew out today/ripped the aluminum. I had to drill the holes close to the edge to avoid hitting the o-ring. They tore today under all of 25psi boost (im running a stock tune)

So back to the drawing board; I might just tack weld it in place. (tack weld the elbow to the bridge)

If I make the elbow piece non-removable is that going to be a huge problem??? IE, is it impossible to unbolt the manifold bridge with the elbow in place, etc..??

Sorry to hear that ben, I thought that might happen. I would weld a 3 inch pipe on the y bridge and be done with it. Build new IC tube to connect.

 

[TNRGreene]

If you look close on the first pic you can see the "tab" on the tube with a mark on the Y Bridge. That is where it "clocks" to. Had to relocate the MAP sensor also

 

[WolfLMM]

Good Work

 

[DuramaxPowered]

What about welding a boss on the front of the elbow and on the back of the y-bridge piece, directly in the center of the opening. Machine it smooth and drill a hole through, then put the proper size bolt for the pressure. you would lose flow from the bolt but if centered I don't think it would have anymore problems. Just have something to seal the bolt like an o-ring.

 

[duratothemax]

ok so if I tack weld the elbow into place on the bridge, its not possible to install the bridge?

I can tig weld steel "ok", but im terrible at aluminum, Ill have to find a friend to help me.

 

[McRat]

Well that was short lived. It blew out today/ripped the aluminum. I had to drill the holes close to the edge to avoid hitting the o-ring. They tore today under all of 25psi boost (im running a stock tune)

So back to the drawing board; I might just tack weld it in place. (tack weld the elbow to the bridge)

If I make the elbow piece non-removable is that going to be a huge problem??? IE, is it impossible to unbolt the manifold bridge with the elbow in place, etc..??

DOH!!!

In the end, we ended up with a PPE bridge.

 

[duratothemax]

I need to have something that works with the twins though.

 

[McRat]

I need to have something that works with the twins though.

Works on these twins.

 

[DuramaxPowered]

How many sq. inches of area are we talking for the force pushing the elbow apart?

 

[McRat]

How many sq. inches of area are we talking for the force pushing the elbow apart?

About 5 sq in. My 400lb was poor memory. 300lb is right.

 

[DuramaxPowered]

What size bolt would that require? I'm thinking if it's bolted together directly in the center it could be "clocked" any direction any wouldn't be able to be pushed apart.

 

[duratothemax]

is it possible to remove the bridge with the [stock] turbo still in place? Doesnt look like its possible.

I pulled it out, cleaned it, and redrilled/tapped new bigger holes with the whole setup in place (I needed to fix it ASAP, no time to pull the bridge and turbo out) slapped it back together with some RTV (one of the O-rings broke, so theres only one o-ring now and RTV sealing it) and two bigger screws that catch a lot more "meat" than before, and it works perfectly. Or at least good enough to not blow apart with a stock tune. Good enough for me.

ben

 

[Idaho CTD]

What about removing the studs on the front side of the bridge? You might be able to roll it forward out from under the turbo to lift it out. Here is another idea....Drill down the sides of the inlet until it's deep enough to go into the bottom of the cross bridge. Use a drill size that you can tap to a standard size (1/4 x 20). That would pin it in.

 

[TheBac]

I need to have something that works with the twins though.

Am I missing something? I thought you were keeping the stock LLY setup for now.

 

[ZR1160]

Am I missing something? I thought you were keeping the stock LLY setup for now.

Stock motor......

 

[TNRGreene]

is it possible to remove the bridge with the [stock] turbo still in place? Doesnt look like its possible.

This is why I went the route I did. I don't believe you can get it out if you connect a tube the "factory" way. If you can tig it to the top like the "Toman" intake you can remove then. think the are major clearence issues with a stock turbo to do that. My fix, you must have the Y Bridge out to put the blocks on the it. & then put "locking" tabs on the inlet

 

[ripmf666]

I think the last time we had mine off we only moved the fuel lines aound turbo in place and the kneck was in, Just have to use a gear wrench.Might have pics somewere. Other then that I was at the dealer looking at the van bridge to mod and install.