Super Budget Build Opinions?

RENODMAX

Dead Wrong
Mar 4, 2008
3,602
0
0
What do you guys think is feasable price wise for the leanest build you can do. All I really want in my truck is rods, keyed cam gear, ARP's, maybe a little cut and coat for pistons. What do you think as far as machining/headgaskets/etc?? I have zero experience building duramax motors obviously.:baby: Thanks guys.
 

hdd-max

New member
Apr 30, 2008
56
0
0
Cheaper to do it once and do it right. If you are going cheap I would say 10K if you do alot of the work yourself.
 

malibu795

misspeelleerr
Apr 28, 2007
8,465
715
113
42
in the buckeye state
rods, rings, cut pisotn, studs, bearing, keyed was ~4400 through trippin. cam is another 1000 this is what i am looking at rough to build my short block
thro in cp3 mod, vlv spring upgrade and possible turbo

you looking at another 300-400 for gaskets including head gaskets depednign if you cut the o-rings on install

i am pushing ~9,000 in parts including, getting a block and crank doesnt include fluids.. and anything else that went bad from siting since 12-07

balancing is ~200 buck at most engine shops
 
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turk walker

New member
Dec 16, 2006
84
0
0
50
gillette,wyoming
I roughly have 6000.00 into mine.Doing most of the work myself.
I paid roughly 3000.00 to have all machine work done and engine assembled back to long block.
 

McRat

Diesel Hotrodder
Aug 2, 2006
11,249
26
38
64
Norco CA
www.mcratracing.com
If you haven't hurt the engine, you can reuse the factory bores and pistons normally.

Studs, rings, bearings, new head gaskets, rods, and keying crank/cam are the bare minimum I would recommend. De-lipping the pistons is also a good idea.
 

SmokeShow

Well-known member
Nov 30, 2006
6,818
34
48
43
Lawrenceburg, KY
So a fella decides to just replace his rods and pistons and put it all back together. What gaskets and stuff cannot be reused and must be purchased new for the reassembly?

Which ones can be reused but might be better off replacing?


C-ya
 

RENODMAX

Dead Wrong
Mar 4, 2008
3,602
0
0
If you haven't hurt the engine, you can reuse the factory bores and pistons normally.

Studs, rings, bearings, new head gaskets, rods, and keying crank/cam are the bare minimum I would recommend. De-lipping the pistons is also a good idea.

Engine hasnt been hurt. I just dont want heads a cam or anything for valvetrain as of yet. I was just wondering how cheaply this can be done for. Seems to be the consensus that it costs about 3k for machining and balancing. 6-10k is doable. above 10k really isnt for me and I was just wondering if you guys thought that was feasable.
 
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vortecfcar

No longer a member
Jun 28, 2007
167
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I did mine for about 5200 in parts and machine work. Heads resurfaced, lips cut, arp studs, Duramaxtuner rods, a ton of odds and ends parts (gaskets, lines, dexcool, crap like that).

Nick
 

RENODMAX

Dead Wrong
Mar 4, 2008
3,602
0
0
I did mine for about 5200 in parts and machine work. Heads resurfaced, lips cut, arp studs, Duramaxtuner rods, a ton of odds and ends parts (gaskets, lines, dexcool, crap like that).

Nick

and you built yours correct? i need a spare block haha. i talked to chad about your rods a while ago and may give them a whirl. theyll be fine as i only wanna run 600-650rwhp
 

malibu795

misspeelleerr
Apr 28, 2007
8,465
715
113
42
in the buckeye state
So a fella decides to just replace his rods and pistons and put it all back together. What gaskets and stuff cannot be reused and must be purchased new for the reassembly?

Which ones can be reused but might be better off replacing?


C-ya

head gaskets (replace mandatory)
inj return line seal, (crush ring.. can re-use but highly not recommended)
grommets on the vlv covers.
head bolts if not doing studs 110(oem) vs ~650(studs)
all exhuast gaskets are re-useable
all o-rings are re-usable unless nicked or swelled
piston rings if going in a new bore.. can be reused if same bore and block. ~50 buck a hole new..
hoses if dry rotted

everything else is bassicly glued shut wiht with either GM spec adhevsive or black prematex
 

RENODMAX

Dead Wrong
Mar 4, 2008
3,602
0
0
Yeah im probably gonna buy another block cos i cant have my truck down for that long. hows your motor comin adam?
 

1slow01Z71

Wannabe EFILive Tuner
Ive built SBCs, SBFs and a couple GEN III chevys, is building a DMAX that much mroe difficult? To me it seems its basically all the same stuff, especially if I got a service manual that showed me every nut and bolt. I just need a sheet telling me what clearances to set for the rods/mains, crankshaft endplay etc and I think I could do it unless there is something Im missing. Does anybody have any links to some good building info. Im just big into the DIY thing and getting the experience along with being able to say I did it. So with all that said why do more people not build their own motors?
 

RENODMAX

Dead Wrong
Mar 4, 2008
3,602
0
0
Ive built SBCs, SBFs and a couple GEN III chevys, is building a DMAX that much mroe difficult? To me it seems its basically all the same stuff, especially if I got a service manual that showed me every nut and bolt. I just need a sheet telling me what clearances to set for the rods/mains, crankshaft endplay etc and I think I could do it unless there is something Im missing. Does anybody have any links to some good building info. Im just big into the DIY thing and getting the experience along with being able to say I did it. So with all that said why do more people not build their own motors?
Im same Ive done SBCs but thats about it and alot of trans/turbo work on the dmaxes but a motor is a little more daunting as mine isnt broken. I should say mine isnt broken yet cos I have a big charger coming in the mail pretty soon here.
 

1slow01Z71

Wannabe EFILive Tuner
Im same Ive done SBCs but thats about it and alot of trans/turbo work on the dmaxes but a motor is a little more daunting as mine isnt broken. I should say mine isnt broken yet cos I have a big charger coming in the mail pretty soon here.

Neither is my LBZ, I plan on picking up a core if I go the DIY route. It seems like you are of the same thinking as I am, although I may throw a set of stage 1 heads and a small cam in there too. Ive just totalled up the parts prices from some different motor build quotes and everyone wants to charge anywhere from 3500-5K for machine work and labor NOT including anything else for a longblock assembly. I could pay 5K for the assembly of the motor but I dont think my conscience would let me sleep well at night knowing I paid that much for something I could have done myself. I think having a working motor in your truck and core sitting on a stand that you could be very meticulous with and build as you go is the ticket if you have the skill. Ive searched but I havent found anywhere if people are running larger clearances on their bearings, and ring gaps or staying with the factory specs. I just dont want to miss somthing that is dmax specific as far as the assembly of the motor is concerned. Like on the LS1 motors there is a little plastic dowel that goes in one of the oil galley ways that is flushed out when the block is acid dipped and you have to replace otherwise you will have major oiling issues, Id hate to miss something as simple as that when I assemble my motor. Have you looked into building it yourself or are you going to get someone to build it for you?