Stumped

[DefiantArms]

Already checked the blinker fluid and muffler bearings but am stumped. Me and Corbin put a rebuilt trans in my truck about two three months ago everything’s great runs great and so on. I work a month on and month off so truck sat for a month.

when i got home crunk the truck and let it sit for about five minutes and then tried to put it in gear and it just didn’t move no matter the gear. Then it finally moved after sitting it in drive for a minute. This might be related I’m not sure on to the issue.

When driving at around 45 my parking brake light comes on and dash reads service brake system. The speedometer fluctuates 4-5mph constantly and there’s two very strange noises.

One noise is similar to the sound of a weld arc or a short and the other noise sounds almost like a air his.

The weld noise also comes with a feeling of underpower and when it goes away you get a faint surge like the powers back. But this is a constant above 45 it goes away for a few seconds and stays for longer than it goes.

I had a leak coming from my LH PTO cover and thought this was a result of atf getting in my plugs/wires so fixed the PTO cover leak and cleaned all the plugs and wires to no avail.

Any ideas would be great. I don’t have a tech II all i have is an aitocal and edge monitor.

 

[dcpjfs432]

I was going to say check the blinker fluid but you already did so...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[PureHybrid]

Did you check over the harness? Any codes? Usually the brake light, abs light and speedo will flake out if the vss circuit has an interruption.

 

[NC-smokinlmm]

Nsbu switch?

 

[superswamper003]

Id check your harness for possible broken wires from hungry rats, if you have them where you live. Just a thought

 

[DefiantArms]

I checked it over pretty good I’ll give it one more once over. Don’t have rats but do have squirrels i had to repair my FPR wires because a squirrel chewed on them. I’ll give it another look.

 

[DefiantArms]

Only code was U0101 but i cleared that a week ago and it hasn’t came back

 

[NC-smokinlmm]

Sounds like a loose ground wire...

 

[SwitchBack]

I checked it over pretty good I’ll give it one more once over. Don’t have rats but do have squirrels i had to repair my FPR wires because a squirrel chewed on them. I’ll give it another look.

Did you pull the cover off the fuse panel under the hook to look for broken wires? Mice seem to love that spot and I’ve seen in on a bunch of trucks.

 

[DefiantArms]

After cleaning the plugs and wires yesterday i drove it and it had the same issue. So pulled the plugs again to look for damaged pins and noticed that the bulkhead plug for the internal trans harness on the aft passenger side of the trans has fluid in it and seems to be leaking from inside the trans out through that plug. Hope this is the issue.

 

[2004LB7]

Common problem. Clean out the connector, dry it and see if the issue clears up.

You may need a new connector

 

[DefiantArms]

Common problem. Clean out the connector, dry it and see if the issue clears up.

You may need a new connector

Cleaned it yesterday just pulled plug and sprayed it out make and female then drove for about thirty checked it this am and fluid was in it. I’ll just order a plug and put it in. Seems simple enough. “Knock on wood”

 

[DefiantArms]

Fixed the connector and still having issue not as bad though it not getting the loud welding sound anymore but still Groningen everything else.

Used a scan tool and came up with these

C0040- abs
C0055-abs
C0110- antilock brake system hyd pump motor malfunction
U1073- lost coms with BCM
P0670- Glow plug “old issue”

 

[Chevy1925]

Fixed the connector and still having issue not as bad though it not getting the loud welding sound anymore but still Groningen everything else.

Used a scan tool and came up with these

C0040- abs
C0055-abs
C0110- antilock brake system hyd pump motor malfunction
U1073- lost coms with BCM
P0670- Glow plug “old issue”

that should answer that, sounds like that bitch is arching to ground or was.

 

[DefiantArms]

that should answer that, sounds like that bitch is arching to ground or was.

Yea that’s what I’m thinking going to climb under her in a little bit with some brakleenand brass brushes

 

[DefiantArms]

Well all the connectors on the abs thing on the frame under drivers seat are clean and no damage to wires all the way to the fuse box. Recleaned all the trans plugs now I’m lost. Anyone know of a schematic for the system or a schematic that shows where all the factory grounds are?

 

[Chevy1925]

Well all the connectors on the abs thing on the frame under drivers seat are clean and no damage to wires all the way to the fuse box. Recleaned all the trans plugs now I’m lost. Anyone know of a schematic for the system or a schematic that shows where all the factory grounds are?

the ABS motor is shorting to ground is what the codes mean. start looking around the motor at the frame or the motor its self for burn marks anywhere. im betting the whole thing is junk. The computer on top of the solenoids of the module commonly goes bad as well. This is the big hardlines mess under the driverside, on the inside frame rail

 

[DefiantArms]

the ABS motor is shorting to ground is what the codes mean. start looking around the motor at the frame or the motor its self for burn marks anywhere. im betting the whole thing is junk. The computer on top of the solenoids of the module commonly goes bad as well. This is the big hardlines mess under the driverside, on the inside frame rail

I’ll pull the fuse box tomorrow but i checked everything going up to the fuse box and no signs of damage.


Found this;

Remove the electronic brake control module (EBCM) from the brake pressure modulator valve (BPMV). Refer to Electronic Brake Control Module Replacement. 2. Inspect the EBCM to BPMV connector for conditions which could cause an intermittent, such as damage, corrosion, poor terminal contact, or presence of brake fluid. Is the connector OK and the cavity free of brake fluid? Go to Step 5 Go to Step 4

1. If connector corrosion or damage is evident, replace the BPMV and/or EBCM as necessary. 2. If brake fluid is present, replace both the BPMV and EBCM. Refer to Brake Pressure Modulator Valve Replacement and Electronic Brake Control Module Replacement.

May only need Ohm meter and test light to check the circuit:
Circuit/System Testing

Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the EBCM. Test for less than 5 ohms of resistance between the ground circuits terminals E and F and ground. ⇒ If greater than the specified range, test the ground circuit for an open/high resistance.

Ignition ON, verify that a test lamp illuminates between the B+ circuits terminals A and B and ground. ⇒ If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the B+ circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal and the B+ circuit fuse is open, test or replace the BPMV.
Ignition OFF, remove the EBCM from the BPMV.

Inspect the EBCM to BPMV connector to insure there is no damage, corrosion, or presence of brake fluid. ⇒ If connector corrosion or damage is evident, replace the BPMV and/or EBCM as necessary. ⇒ If brake fluid is present, replace both the BPMV and EBCM.
If all circuits test normal, replace the BPMV.

 

[Chevy1925]

thats not a bad test. id try it. a tech2 or high end snap on style scanner would make short work of all this if you have access to one

 

[DefiantArms]

I used the advance auto parts store scanner to read the codes I’ll try and find a tech2