Straight driveline by lowering?

MackeyLB7

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Jul 10, 2020
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I have a 2003 2500HD extended cab 6.5ft bed 4x4 with load bags and was wondering if anyone knew the amount to lower it to make the cv axles straight and the drive shaft? And maybe a kit I could buy


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Bdsankey

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I know that I want it lowered some just no more than 3/5


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10-4. Your question was "how much drop does it take to make CV angles flat" which is why I answered the way I did. Your question isn't the most clear in your original post.
 

MackeyLB7

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10-4. Your question was "how much drop does it take to make CV angles flat" which is why I answered the way I did. Your question isn't the most clear in your original post.

Well sorry I’m just trying to see if anyone has done it it’s lifted right now but the back of the truck gets very light at top end due to air going under the back of the bed so I want to drop it down just enough to make it all straight


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Bdsankey

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Well sorry I’m just trying to see if anyone has done it it’s lifted right now but the back of the truck gets very light at top end due to air going under the back of the bed so I want to drop it down just enough to make it all straight


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If the truck is lifted why don't you just remove the lift kit?
 

MackeyLB7

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If the truck is lifted why don't you just remove the lift kit?

Because that’s only 3in and it’s back to factory height so it still won’t have a straight driveline with that I’m trying to get the best control I can I don’t mud in the truck it rarely goes off pavement so there’s no point in it still being lifted for my use of it I just tow and drag race it twice a year now


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Bdsankey

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Because that’s only 3in and it’s back to factory height so it still won’t have a straight driveline with that I’m trying to get the best control I can I don’t mud in the truck it rarely goes off pavement so there’s no point in it still being lifted for my use of it I just tow and drag race it twice a year now


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That's my point. On factory components you can easily get good CV angles (flat). You don't need to drop it unless you want the look. You will not get the truck to have a straight rear driveshaft without doing some serious lowering in the rear end.


You're trying to reinvent a wheel that isn't broken. Just remove your lift and your CV angles and rear driveshaft angles will be fine. People have gone much faster than you or I in the 1/4mi at stock height. I've gone to 127mph without any issue or uneasy feeling and that was on some old 35" BFG MTs.
 
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Chevy1925

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de-cranking the torsion bars from stock height to get flat cv angles is lowering the truck. its below factory height. you are making this way too difficult, brad

@MackeyLB7 , if you want the rear driveshaft straight and front cv angles flat, the truck will be nose high. you need a 5" drop in the back end from factory height plus some to get a flat rear driveshaft. front only needs like 1 - 1.5" drop from factory height.

most guys lower the front torsion bars till the CV angle is flat then run a 3" drop shackle in the back. if you do that, make sure to check pinion angle after, in some cases, guys have had to run a 3* pinion angle shim to get pinion angle back to playing nice.
 

Bdsankey

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de-cranking the torsion bars from stock height to get flat cv angles is lowering the truck. its below factory height. you are making this way too difficult, brad

@MackeyLB7 , if you want the rear driveshaft straight and front cv angles flat, the truck will be nose high. you need a 5" drop in the back end from factory height plus some to get a flat rear driveshaft. front only needs like 1 - 1.5" drop from factory height.

most guys lower the front torsion bars till the CV angle is flat then run a 3" drop shackle in the back. if you do that, make sure to check pinion angle after, in some cases, guys have had to run a 3* pinion angle shim to get pinion angle back to playing nice.

I guess my definition of lowering is different, lowering to me means added components to drop the overall height of the truck below what factory components allow. Like you stated, stock keys/bars can get the CVs flat which was the point I was trying to get across.
 

Chevy1925

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I guess my definition of lowering is different, lowering to me means added components to drop the overall height of the truck below what factory components allow. Like you stated, stock keys/bars can get the CVs flat which was the point I was trying to get across.

far too technical to what 95% of the rest of the people look at it as. if its under stock height, its lowered regardless of parts. If its above stock height, its lifted regardless of parts. did you have your coffee yet? 😁:ROFLMAO:
 

Bdsankey

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far too technical to what 95% of the rest of the people look at it as. if its under stock height, its lowered regardless of parts. If its above stock height, its lifted regardless of parts. did you have your coffee yet? 😁:ROFLMAO:

Honestly still working on the first cup, been one heck of a busy morning. Guessing it shows haha.
 

gmduramax

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far too technical to what 95% of the rest of the people look at it as. if its under stock height, its lowered regardless of parts. If its above stock height, its lifted regardless of parts. did you have your coffee yet? 😁:ROFLMAO:

coffee, I needed a double shot of crown for that map sensor post
 

MackeyLB7

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Jul 10, 2020
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de-cranking the torsion bars from stock height to get flat cv angles is lowering the truck. its below factory height. you are making this way too difficult, brad

@MackeyLB7 , if you want the rear driveshaft straight and front cv angles flat, the truck will be nose high. you need a 5" drop in the back end from factory height plus some to get a flat rear driveshaft. front only needs like 1 - 1.5" drop from factory height.

most guys lower the front torsion bars till the CV angle is flat then run a 3" drop shackle in the back. if you do that, make sure to check pinion angle after, in some cases, guys have had to run a 3* pinion angle shim to get pinion angle back to playing nice.

Thanks I’ll probably just go with a 3/5in drop kit then I’m just curious to see what anyone else done lowering one I’ve personally never lowered a truck but have lifted many basically the same process though


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Bdsankey

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Thanks I’ll probably just go with a 3/5in drop kit then I’m just curious to see what anyone else done lowering one I’ve personally never lowered a truck but have lifted many basically the same process though


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Is your front differential dropped or in the OEM location?
 

Chevy1925

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Thanks I’ll probably just go with a 3/5in drop kit then I’m just curious to see what anyone else done lowering one I’ve personally never lowered a truck but have lifted many basically the same process though


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just watch your rear frame clearance to the axle. if you tow or haul decent loads, gunna be hitting the frame. also watch that the cv angle. 3" front drop starts to put decent angle back into the cv. i believe they make a drop spindle now that helps
 

MackeyLB7

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just watch your rear frame clearance to the axle. if you tow or haul decent loads, gunna be hitting the frame. also watch that the cv angle. 3" front drop starts to put decent angle back into the cv. i believe they make a drop spindle now that helps

They have a drop spindle and I have air bags in it now so as long as those still fit I’ll be good I tow a gooseneck usually around 20k-30k


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