LBZ: Stock Rebuild

Doms

New member
Apr 23, 2020
25
1
3
Saskatchewan
Here are a couple pictures along the way. I have a ton from disassembly, not too many going back together.

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I cut a 2x4 to wedge up under the front of the engine to take some weight the final day of assembly. My stand really wasn’t meant for this.

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Doms

New member
Apr 23, 2020
25
1
3
Saskatchewan
I deleted my EGR cooler but I wanted to keep my grid heater so I built a bracket to block off and support the intake. Tried to come up with a clean solution that wouldn’t be a pile of time/money.

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NevadaLLY

Adam B
Feb 24, 2019
332
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28
Reno, NV
I was going to suggest looking at the bottom of the heads to understand you dont do that but realized you might be asking in reference to valve protrusion as they open/close.

No, you dont do that. generally, you are safe if you take .007 or less off a head to not need a thicker gasket or recess the valves into the head more. the gaskets give a range on what they will squish like an A is .0354-.0394. when using headstuds, its best to assume the lower end of that number. being you didnt deck the block, you can see that you have a little give with the gasket to the block as it will be tighter to the highs (lower protrusion numbers are a good reference to block variance) and looser on the lows (higher protrusion numbers). its not perfect science to say the low protrustion is where the block is higher but it gives a little picture of it.

so take your highest protrusion number for a bank of cylinders, subtract it from the gasket thickeness and that is your P to H clearance. Pass side will see .0284-.0324 clearance and driverside will see .0294-.0334 clearance, both at their tightest area. hence my "you will have a .030 piston to head clearance with an A gasket" i posted earlier. thats well more than enough as stock is .022-.025 clearance area. ive ran them as tight as .020, wouldnt go more than that.



ok, then you wont be looking at the lower side of the gasket thickeness range, you will fall closer to what i was posting above.
I’m in a build right now with protrusion at .019” highest on both banks. With a grade C squished to the bottom end of tolerance of .0394”, that gives me P to H clearance of .0204 worst case. Some the others are around .0155-.0170 so clearance would be a bit better - best case .0239. I’d like this truck to run well and don’t want big clearance as if I go to the “D” gasket, I’ll be in the tolerance ranges of .0302-.0337 which seems high to me