Can anyone tell me which type of center link is better? straight or dropped? I've noticed that places like Kryptonite have a straight one while others like PPE have the bigger 7/8" design, but it still retains the dropped ends. From what I have read / observed, the inherent twisting of the center link is one of the things that gives these trucks that "wondering" feeling going down the road. There are several kits out there that help to reduce this, but didn't know if the changing the center link design also helped or made it worse? Seem to remember one guy saying that it had an affect on his turning radius too. But that might of been in combination with one of the add on steering kits.
Steering center link - straight or dropped?
- Thread starter turbo_bu
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This is just my tow pig. So, turning radius is important. I am starting to get signs of weak power steering, and figure that I might have to swap out steering boxes. It sounds like the PSC box is a good upgrade, but that leads to new pitman arm, which can lead to new center link etc... I would rather buy once, cry once, than piece meal parts which might now match / work well together. Thus, the questions about the different center link designs.
I take it that the scrubbing while turning can result in the increased turning radius comments I have seen before?
I take it that the scrubbing while turning can result in the increased turning radius comments I have seen before?
I like the kryptonite center link that is drilled for regular tapered tie rod ends instead of drilled and tapped for thread in tie rod ends. It's somewhat of a compromise between the stock offset and the totally straight center links that still use stock style inner tie rods. I've not seen them hurt turning radius like the others either.
^^^^ exactly; compromise. I had the stock link, a straight link, and the kryptonite. For DD and tow jockeying the straight was awful. But you aren't going to roll it in a boosted launch, like I did the Kryptonite! The Kryp is straight but instead of the tie rods connecting out the ends, it is drilled/machined for them to attach inward and it reduces the tendency to roll like stock but turns better than a true straight centerlink. I added more goodies to stop the Kryp from rolling, and had a bombproof front end. 
100% agree. The kryptonite street series centerlink seems to be hard to beat.
If you haven't seen the latest in the steering box thread. People have been able to get the 6 bolt box with 3 flats through Cordone so you don't have to change the Steering arm.
So if you wanted to run the PPE 1.5 factory drop style bar, You could go that route.
Here is the Discussion with part numbers.
www.duramaxdiesels.com
So if you wanted to run the PPE 1.5 factory drop style bar, You could go that route.
Here is the Discussion with part numbers.
01-10 steering box redhead ,PSC ,OEM
Be curious what city it was in? I am sure they are just using a generic 3rd party warehouse company. City of Industry.
www.duramaxdiesels.com
1FastBrick - yes, I have been dutifully reading the steering box thread and trying to comprehend all the different variables of guys steering setups. It seems like there are many different options out there which is making it a little more confusing for myself. I am leaning toward the new Cordone steering box since yes, that will allow me to keep my existing steering arm (already went with the Moog one).
FollowUp - you mentioned running the Kyrptonite street series center link, but that it still had a tendency to roll. What kit(s) did you put with it to help reduce the roll?
FollowUp - you mentioned running the Kyrptonite street series center link, but that it still had a tendency to roll. What kit(s) did you put with it to help reduce the roll?
2 with the OE style arms.
But you could run PPE 1.5 OE style drop link with 7/8 bolt which requires PPE specific steering and idler arms.
That is correct, I did not specify OEM centerlink vs PPE 7/8 so that is my bad.
The PPE 7/8 setup seems to work well but has no bracing options at the moment. I haven't seen them roll much but I also haven't use a ton of them. I will be using one on again on my LB7 since it's coming off the LLY haha.
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Thats what I’m running, with the Ppe oe style beefier centerlink. Seems to be solid, decided to not use the pisk kit I bought after assembling it all.
Anyone else running this setup care to chime in if the pisk is even needed ?
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I know the idler shaft is stationary on the Kryptonite. It only rotates inside a bearing. It's not like a traditional joint.
I would have to look at the steering arms joint side again.
I would have to look at the steering arms joint side again.
I went overboard as usual, LOL. So here's the long story. I had the kryp centerlink and tie rods and weld in gusset, as well as the Henderson idler and the Ultimate Idler Arm. The Ultimate Idler Arm is long longer made, but it was similar to the big one from Kryp - deathgrip or something. I also ran the Rare Parts Pitman, and here's where it gets tricky. The Rare pitman allows full articulation of the pin and does not help the centerlink at all. I did this because of so many people sheering off the pitman pin, and knowing that it translates to wear on my steering box! Set up like this, I was solid as a rock. Then I upped HP when I went to a Danville 68mm and fuel. I rolled the centerlink on the first hit! But it drove home!! The pitman survived and steered me home, and I got a new pin in the idler and rebuilt it. I then added Tony's DHD Brace. No more roll but there was a little pigeon towing on a hard boosted launch. I bought Tony's lower control arm bracket next. SOLID. I could not make the front end deflect no matter what. A boosted launch required less than a pinky on the steering wheel. I think it is really the ultimate front end IMHO for someone (me!) that wanted the best street manners possible and superior strength. I was at full lock with a trailer in 4wd backing up 12 tons and that front end didn't flinch!
Thanks for every ones input on what has / has not worked for you. I think that I am getting somewhat confused by the different failure modes of this design. I have read / seen the deflection issue of the center link ... this can be fixed by running either the straight or larger dropped center link. The outer tie rods are just junk, so putting in a larger rod is a no brainer.
The rolling failure mode is the part that I am trying to understand at preventing. I have felt the center link when I replaced by pitman arm a few years ago. There isn't much resistance in keeping it straight if you grab a hold of it. I am not quite sure though how well the different options of pitman / idler arms are at preventing this unintended motion. It sounds like some are better than others.
Is there a difference in how well say the kryptonite idler / pitman arms are at preventing the roll than say the PPE design? or the rare parts design? I am not quite following if there is a difference in how they work since they look similar with a tapered ball stud used to connect the arms to the center link. Yes the over all forging is bigger, but if it is still a ball stud, then won't the center link be allowed to move?
The rolling failure mode is the part that I am trying to understand at preventing. I have felt the center link when I replaced by pitman arm a few years ago. There isn't much resistance in keeping it straight if you grab a hold of it. I am not quite sure though how well the different options of pitman / idler arms are at preventing this unintended motion. It sounds like some are better than others.
Is there a difference in how well say the kryptonite idler / pitman arms are at preventing the roll than say the PPE design? or the rare parts design? I am not quite following if there is a difference in how they work since they look similar with a tapered ball stud used to connect the arms to the center link. Yes the over all forging is bigger, but if it is still a ball stud, then won't the center link be allowed to move?