Starting a SAS build

[Cabbaaage]

A few months back, I purchased a 2008 Super Duty axle to put under my 2005 Sierra, using WFO's 3" coilover kit. When I had time to, I'd work on piecing the axle together to get it as complete as possible in prep for this swap. I've almost saved up the amount needed to buy the kit and the recommended coilovers for the swap. My fiance's brother welds professionally and has volunteered his shop and services to tackle the welding portion and cutting off the IFS. This truck is my DD though, so of course I'm a bit skeptical and i don't want anything to go wrong during the process. Has anyone here used a WFO kit to swap a Super Duty axle onto their Duramax? Any advice going forward would be greatly appreciated to ease my mind. I'm located in central FL, so maybe any shop recommendations for people I can talk to?

 

[Bdsankey]

Another option would be to use the WCFab kit. Also, keep in mind either having to buy conversion adapters or machining the wheel bearing/hub for the gm bolt pattern. The super duty has a different bolt pattern (8x170) vs a duramax (8x6.5 for 01-10, 8x180 for 11-current).

 

[Cabbaaage]

Hmm, I'll have to check that out. Didn't realize they offered a kit too. For the time being, the plan is to buy adapters until I figure out the exact difference in WMS-WMS between the 14bolt and the D60. Then maybe I'll machine the rotors and unit bearings if i need to widen the rear.

 

[Chevy1925]

ABS will give you issues. some use a conversion and still have issues. Front drive shaft will be your weak point at the DC joint. Make sure the drive shaft does not pull out of the t-case at full droop and you have atleast 1" of slip left. Then make sure you dont full compress the drive shaft into the t-case at full compression,also make sure you wont be putting the diff into anything important at full bump. make DAMN sure the track bar is parallel with the drag link or you will have fun with bump steer issues. You dont have a corporate 14b, you have a AAM 11.5 rear diff. dont confuse the two or your WMS to WMS will be wrong.

 

[Cabbaaage]

Goodmorning James and thanks for the reply! I don't know if you'll remember, but i had a post a few weeks ago about my UCA resting on the frame drop out. This is the same truck, so it's a 2wd. I'm still taking into consideration the things you mentioned, although I won't be certain the clearances until I either adapt my 2wd transmission tailhousing, or buy a 4wd transmission with t-case. BUT my main goal at the moment is to get it steering and stopping safely. The rear end is being an AAM 11.5 is something I hadn't researched much on. I guess that makes great sense as to why dodge and GM bolt patterns and ABS sensor stuff is alike. Have you looked at the WFO kit I hope to be using? It comes with a frame side track bar mount that reuses the factory track bar and mount axle side, along with a drag link that in other build pictures looks to be parallel.

 

[Chevy1925]

Since you dont have a t-case, look into getting the ford 273 case. you will have to relocate the abs modual forward or backward but you will gain more clearance between trans and drive shaft so you can run the much larger 1350 DC at the t-case. There is a company making a hybrid case that is not as wide as teh 273 but wider than the chevy 263 so you can still fit the 1350 in there but not have to move the ABS modual.

never trust a bolt in kit. ALWAY double check all their work. cycle the suspension and verify clearances and travel of parts. Jigs can move, parts can tweak a bit if not fully cooled before removal, and vehicles can vary ever so slightly. If you are rushing to put this thing together, you may missing something important and cause more headache down the road. cycling the suspension is not just for driveshaft issues, its for clearance or binding or other problems you may encounter.

 

[Cabbaaage]

That's great info. Screenshotting to reference. The tcases you mentioned.. Would I be able to run them divorced, or would I have to adapt them to the Allison?

 

[Chevy1925]

wont be able to run the divorced unless you have some kind of adapter made. might look at a t-case out of a kodiak if you want a divorced case, other was a 205 is your best option there. they just need help to hold up to any decent power out of the truck