The question is does the ECM need to know you are trying to start the engine or can I abandon the stand alone harness start wires and do my own start circuit?
Because I want to, I did not ask if I SHOULD, I asked if I COULD..the batteries are under the passenger seat and I already have primary leads going from the dash panel to the battery box in the custom body harness, it would be a very simple solution to add a start relay in the battery box that is only about 18" from the starter. this is a HMMWV conversion. I already have relays for 12V run, 12V acc and 24V acc in the battery box, the idea is to only have relay power running through the ignition switch limiting total load on the ignition switch to under 2A, also because it only takes about 10 seconds to remove the passenger seat it makes troubleshooting issues much easier as a HMMWV is definitely 50lb of crap stuffed into a 5lb bag and that was BEFORE the conversion it is also designed like no other vehicle out there adding to the difficulty of a conversion like this, this is a picture of the relay section of the battery box under the passenger seat.What are you trying to accomplish? Why not just use the existing start system? Have you looked at the wiring diagram for your truck? They're available at https://www.gmupfitter.com/pages/body-builder-manuals There is a very good section in the ELECTRICAL MANUAL explaining how the starting system works, what the inputs and connections are, etc.
Thanks for the heads up, don't think that is going to be a problem though as I am not an idiot... also there is no way one could get confused and think a HMMWV was not running when it actually is..Are you looking to bypass the ECU for starting, as in the ignition switch will hit a relay and engage the starter solenoid directly?
I am not sure if the LMM cares or not, but one reason not to do that is you eliminate a couple subtle but important features:
So while the ECU might start the engine if you run your own start circuit entirely (though it might not, I am not sure), it removes a lot of "idiot-proofing" in the process.
- Starter disable while running (you could then hit start and grind the starter if the engine was running already, or hold the key on and the starter would stay engaged once the engine started -- the ECU prevents both of these from happening normally)
- Starter overheat protection (ECU limits cranking duration to ~15 seconds per attempt)